differential lubricant for 93 Explorer-What should I use?

[hank19-1]

93 XLT Explorer- I want to change the front and rear differential gear oil. The Haynes manual says it takes API GL-5 SAE 90 Hypoid gear lubricant for the front and rear differential. It also says if it is a "Traction-Lok axle add 4oz of friction modifier. First can both the front and rear differential be a "Traction-Lok" differential? If not is it just the rear differential that is a "traction-Loc"? How does one tell if you have a Traction-Lok or not? Also I want to put synthetic gear oil in both differential's. What is a good synthetic to use or are all of them about the same quality? I have a AutoZone and O'reillys and a Amsoil dealer here in town. So my question is about what gear oil should I use,is it a traction-lok and what synthetic would you use? THANK-YOU for your help! John

 

[MrShorty]

Traction lock were only offered in the rear differentials.
Several ways to tell if you have a traction lock differential:
1) Check axle code on sticker on door jamb then cross reference to one of the many tables on the internet that tell you what the code refers to (I think there might be one on this site somewhere even).
2) Check tag on differential. 2nd line of tag will start with the gear ratio (3 73 or 3L73, for example). If there's an L where the decimal point would be in the gear ratio, it's a traction lock differential. If not, you have an open differential.
3) Take the cover off of the differential and visually check the carrier.

If you do find you have a TL, then I would suggest testing it to see if it works. The clutches don't normally last 12 years 100K+ miles. You might consider rebuilding it while you have the differential open (or don't worry about it, and treat it as an open differential).

 

[Positive Vibes]

I will do my best to answer your questions.

"Can the front have traction lok". Only the rear came with a traction lok and that was optional. The front doesn't come with one unless someone installed some sort of locker themselves. I think it would be safe to say you don't have a locker in the front.

"How does one tell if you have a traction lok. On your rear diff there will be a stamp or a tag with #'s on it. If you post these #'s someone can tell you what gearing you have and if you have a traction lok.

"Also I want to put synthetic gear oil in both diffs", I wouldn't do this, I've read that if you switch a older car over to sythetic you can cause leaks. The sythetic particles are smaller than regular fluid and can leak out. I think there are few other reasons but thats the main one. If it was a truck with less thatn 20k miles on it I would say go for it but switching a older truck over could cause problems.

"What is a good synthetic to use or are all of them about the same quality?" Just use regular old diff gear oil. Check to see if you have a traction lok in the back if you do you need to add the additive.

Hope this helps. Anyone else want to chime in?

 

[sabatosh]

Make sure you go to Ford and get the differential fluid that is used in there stock. Differntial fluid is different than regular gear oil, it has a non-slip property to it, it's special.

 

[Rhett]

The Haynes manual says it takes API GL-5 SAE 90 Hypoid gear lubricant for the front and rear differential.

I use AMSOIL 75W-90 gear oil in the front and rear diff, and I'm getting better mileage than ever. If you don't plan to keep your truck a long time, you don't need to go to the expense of synthetic. Otherwise, I'd do it. I'd recommend changing the gasket on the rear diff while you're at it.

 

[smiley1]

Redline synthetic 75-90 in front and 75-140 in the rear. Summitracing.com has it cheaper than I can find Mobil synthetic locally.

 

[GSEREP1]

I have a 1997 2WD 5.0L V8 Explorer w/ TRACTION LOK that I bought new. It already has the 75W-140- Fluid in it from the factory. After talking to a lot of you this morning, I decided to go ahead and change it. I drained the old fluid, and it looked as good as new. Ford was correct in the fact that this synthetic oil does NOT need changing if there is no problem noted. I almost wished that I could have stopped in mid stream, or reused what came out.

Anyway, I replaced it with identically colored fluid from AMSOIL. Their 75W-140 fluid will probably give me identical performance. I don't expect anything better than what I already had. NOW I just have piece of mind from the satisfaction that I changed it. I don't think I will ever do it again.

By the way, while inside the cover, I noted that the non moving internals were coated with a black sticky substance throughout. I took it as clutch facngs. I cleaned it all up, and shined up the internals, including the inside of the cover. Then after some reading on the computer, and remembering a conversation I had previously, I discovered something...

The BLUE colored Friction Modifier goes in that color, but the mixing with the fluid and the heat generated while driving causes the MOLY to release the its' properties and quiet everything down. The friction modifier is MOLYBDENUM based, and if you know anything about "MOLY" grease, it is BLACK and sticky. This was explained to me by a Ford Parts Guy awhile ago, but the expanation didn't sink in ...until TODAY. IT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE BLACK LIKE THAT INSIDE. The magnet in the fill plug was also covered with shiny moly grease, but very little metal fragments. I cleaned the magnet on the plug, and reinstalled.

Really strange to have that much MOLY inside the internals, and still have CLEAN fluid...go figure.

The AMSOIL fluid cost me $35.00 for 3 quarts including shipping and tax, and I am a dealer. Apparently it is worth it.

After servicing it, I went for a drive, and it is still just as quiet as ever. I am satisfied.

One Ford dealer yesterday told me not to change it. The other one said that I could do it if I wanted to, but if I was not having problems, it was probably not needed. NOW I know why...it is an excellent fluid/friction modifier combination, and I am through changing it.

NUFF SAID!

 

[smiley1]

...and we are back from the dead.


I recently changed mine to redline full synthetic 75- 90w after talking to redline directly. In my quest to improve MPG I decided to change to a thinner weight diff oil in the front and back. I dont tow, never will with the X. It has given me a slight increase... about 1 MPG. Its very quiet and runs very well with only 85k.

 

[FL Oil Guy]

Here are the specs on your truck.
I run the 75 - 140 in the rear
75 -90 in the front

1993 FORD TRUCKS EXPLORER 4.0L 6-cyl VIN Code X

FILTERS
Oil Filter......SDF15
Oil Vapor Filter......N/R
Air Filter......TS88
Fuel Filter......GF247
Fuel Vapor Filter......N/R
PCV Valve......HV82
Trans......TF139, A4LD 2WD
Trans......TF140, A4LD 4WD



BOSCH SPARK PLUGS
All submodels
Wire......B09645
Plug......B4458




BOSCH WIPER BLADES
Driver side......B40918
Passenger side......B40918
Rear window......B40913


CHASSIS LUBRICATION
Two-wheel drive
0-6 Fittings, 0 Plugs..........LM
Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease
Synthetic GHD Heavy-Duty EP Grease
Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2
Four-wheel drive
0-10 Fittings, 0 Plugs..........LM
Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease
Synthetic GHD Heavy-Duty EP Grease
Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2



LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS
Engine Oil
Grade 1......API*
Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil
SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
SAE 5W-30 XL-7500 Synthetic Motor Oil
All Temps......5W-30
Manual Transmission,5-spd Mazda.....MA[1]
Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
Manual Transmission,5-spd Mit.....SLF
Special Lubricant-Fluid - Not Available Through Amsoil Click here for more information
Automatic Transmission.....MA
Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
Differential, Front .....GL-5
75W-90
Severe Gear 75W-90
SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
Standard Differential, Rear .....GL-5
80W-90
SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
Severe Gear 75W-90
SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
Controlled Slip Differential, Rear .....GL-5*[2]
80W-90
SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
Severe Gear 75W-90
SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
Slip-Lock Differential Additive
Transfer Case,.....MA
Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
Fluids
Power Steering Fluid.....FA
Supershift Racing Transmission Fluid
Brake Fluid.....HBH
Hydraulic Brake Fluid, Extra Heavy Duty - Not Available Through Amsoil Click here for more information
Clutch Fluid.....HBH
Hydraulic Brake Fluid, Extra Heavy Duty - Not Available Through Amsoil Click here for more information

1. Mazda transmission drain plug is on the driver's side of the
case. Mitsubishi drain plug is automatic transmission the center of the pan.
2. CS IDENTIFICATION: Letter & number on plate on door lock
pillar. (Models W/ Traction-Lok Rear Axle Add 4 oz of
friction modifier part no. C8AZ-19B546A (EST-M2C118-A)


CAPACITIES
Engine, with filter..........5.0 quarts[1]
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........8.0 quarts
Automatic Transmission, Others Initial Fill..........3.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, 4R70W Initial Fill..........5.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
2wd ..........9.8 quarts
4wd ..........10.0 quarts
Manual Transmission, 5-spd Mazda..........5.5 pints[3]
Manual Transmission, 5-spd Mit..........4.9 pints
Differential, Dana 35 Front..........3.6 pints[4]
Differential, Rear..........5.5 pints[5]
Transfer Case,Warner 1354..........2.5 pints

1. When refilling, remove dipstick to provide adequate venting
and allow oil to flow into crankcase.
2. With ENG automatic transmission operating temperature, shift through all
gears. Check fluid level in PARK and add fluid as needed.
3. Mazda transmission drain plug is on the driver's side of the
case. Mitsubishi drain plug is automatic transmission the center of the pan.
4. Fill no higher than 9.5 mm or 3/8 inch below fill plug.
5. Fill to no more than 1/4 to 9/16 inch below fill plug hole.


TORQUES
Oil Drain Plug.....15-25 ft-lbs
Transfer case
Fill Plug.....14-22 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....14-22 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission Maz M50D 5-spd
Fill Plug.....29-43 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....29-43 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission Mit 5-spd
Fill Plug.....22-25 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....25-32 ft-lbs


CAUTIONS
ENGINE
Crankcase oil level must be no higher than
the 'F' in FULL on the dipstick.
ENGINE
W/ FI, remove the engine oil dipstick when
refilling in order to avoid contamination
of the PCV system.