Difficulty Rating for Noob/Female Fuel Filter Install

[Sunshiney]

I am an inexperienced female re vehicle repairs but I'm willing to try/get dirty. I bought a Fuel Filter for my 2000 AWD V8 5L Explorer Limited (about 130K miles) and then googled. I'm thinking now that maybe I could do the replace myself but I'm not sure I'm biting off too much or if there are tips on doing this from pro's and/or some cautions.

I'd be working on my paved driveway or the garage but no lift. I'm a widow/alone/so no helper.

Your opinions, please?

 

[XLTrunner]

This is a task that may go easy or, give you fits...depending on how stubborn the fuel line fittings are. Being that you don't live in the Rust Belt, I'd say your chances are pretty good that the lines will come off without a problem. My truck is from AZ (had it in MN for 5 yrs) and they popped right off. Don't know whether it had been changed before I got it...but, I'd put 65K miles on it before I changed it.

I assume that when you Googled it, you found you need the special fuel line disconnect tool? I just have the plastic ones I bought at the local auto parts store. Spray some lubricant (WD-40 or some such) into the connection and push the fuel lines inward toward the filter on each line while inserting the disconnect too. Sometimes, I've found I need to rotate the tool as I'm inserting it to get it fully seated. Then, while holding the tool inward, pull the line from the filter. It will probably take a few tries since you've never done this. Before you do all this, make sure you relieve the fuel pressure...and, wear goggles so you don't get any in your eyes.

As for doing it without a lift, it would be helpful if you can get that left side up a little. If you're not familiar with using ramps or jacking the front end up and using jack stands, I might suggest you look around and see if you can find a couple 2"x6" or 2"x8" scrap boards that you can use to drive the left wheels up onto for a little extra room to crawl under there. I have a very handy set of homemade ramps I use where I stacked two 2"x8"x18"lg boards by nailing one on top of the other and beveling the ends so I can easily drive up onto them. 9 times out of 10 when I need to change the oil or get under the truck for front end maintenance, I can use these and not my metal ramps or floor jack. You'd be surprised how an extra 3" (4" nominal ends up being 3" actual thickness) of lift under the tires will allow for getting under there to work...and, it's even safer and easier than metal ramps, jack stands or floor jacks.

As always, ask questions if you need more help.

 

[Sunshiney]

Excellent response! I love the tips you provided. WD-40 into the connection was something I had not thought of or read about. I am in a heavy snow zone; does that affect the lines?

I am concerned about the gasoline spray issue. I have googles and thanks for that tip; I will wear them. I've read about a few ways to deal with the relieving of pressure and benefit of having less gas in the tank? Any other tips re that would be helpful.

That's clever re the ramps. I have a lot of wood on my property; think I'll make a ramp this evening. Great idea.

Is there anything I can do to really muck this up? I'm feeling, well, empowered at the thought of doing this!

 

[XLTrunner]

It's not the snow that's the problem, it's the excessive use of road chemicals that causes the rust. And trust me, MN LOVES to throw down the chemicals.

The gas won't spray all over the place if the pressure is relieved. You'll get a little bit of drainage and it will probably drip on you or run down your arms...but, nothing to be concerned about. Goggles are just a precaution in case it were to drip onto your face. And, I don't see how the level of fuel in the tank has any relevance...unless, it's maybe completely full or the truck sits on a steep decline? I don't know...never considered it as something to be concerned with.

Probably shouldn't mention this, but there was just a recent thread on here where a member broke off one of the fittings when trying to remove the filter. But, I can assure you, that would take more force than you'll be applying for that to happen. Insert the tool as described (the fuel line will only move about 1/8" max. when pushing inward on it while installing the tool) and firmly pull apart the filter and fuel line. If they don't separate after a number of tries, let them sit with more WD40 or PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench sprayed inside the fitting to help loosen them up. Then, try again.

If it would help, I've got a spare filter and line fittings in my garage that I could take pics of and send to you so you have a better understanding of how these go together/come apart. E-mail me as Sdbriese2@comcast.net if you'd like. A video would be better...but, I'm not too savvy with how to send one to you.

Steve

 

[J_C]

There is a Schroeder valve on the fuel injector rail under the hood that you can use to relieve fuel rail pressure. That's like a bicycle valve where you just push in the center pin to release pressure, after taking the metal cap off to access it. It will spray out then.

After that you may still have the quantity of fuel in that length of fuel line which will run out when disconnecting it. Just don't have your head under it at the time of disconnection.

 

[koda2000]

This job can be a son-of-a-*****. First one I did I gave up after 1+ hours if trying. After buying the right tool for the job and experimenting I managed to get it off. Gas in your face is a real possibility. I once got it in my ear (hurt like hell for about a half hour. Considered going to the ER, but the pain subsided).

After having now done this job 6-8 times I can change a fuel filter in just a few minutes. The right tool is important. The right technique is equally important. As mentioned, corrosion and dirt in the retainers can turn the job into a nightmare. This is one job perhaps better left to a professional, but give it a try if you like. Just don't break anything.

 

[Travisfab]

The scissor style tool is the way to go. I too have had good and bad fittings. Some are an absolute nightmare!

 

[koda2000]

Don't waste your money on plastic line disconnect tools. I bought a set of individual metal disconnect tools. They work quite well. The 5/16 size fits the fuel filter. You have the get the fuel filter to turn on the lines and you have to get the fuel lines to push into the filter slightly while using the disconnect tool or you'll never get the filter off. Leave the filter in it's bracket while using the disconnect tool.

The tools I bought are similar to the ones pictured in the link below:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Pc-Color-...630291?hash=item1c357034d3:g:m4oAAOSwT-FZCQKY

 

[Turdle]

Boy opinions sure vary. I myself prefer the multi colored lisle set, it's the blue one which will work best for the lines on the fuel filter.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-39400-...spell&keywords=ford+duel+line+disconnect+tool

have a little catch container with you so you can pour the filter out once you have one end disconnected. If you do the rear one first, it will drain fastest. ( at this time you will see coffee-mud looking stuff coming out and feel good about doing this. Pat yourself on the back.)
Also, AVOID THE TEMPTATION TO GRAB THE CONNECTOR WITH ANY TOOL!!! No pliers-vice grips etc. If you do, and the connector becomes deformed, it will never release.

Good luck. This can be the most simple task, or your worst nightmare. If it becomes difficult, walk away and come back to it in a few minutes.


Edit. Years ago there was a nightmare fuel pump thread which finally ended with good results. Turns out, the member had to "shim" his quick disconnect tool a tad thicker and it worked. He used the cap from a tiny ( 2 oz travel size) bottle of baby lotion, cut off the very end and slid it over the tool if I recall correctly. I am only throwing this out for you because you are so far away from needed things.

pic for reference.

 

[XLTrunner]

I have the plastic tool set and don't consider them "junk". Used them many times without any problem...even on stubborn fittings.

 

[boominXplorer]

Question..... other than preventive maintenance is there another reason your trying to replace the fuel filter? Very rarely do I see them clog up or cause issues. With you being in a potential rust area I wouldn't mess with it unless I absolutely had to.

 

[96eb96]

Question..... other than preventive maintenance is there another reason your trying to replace the fuel filter? Very rarely do I see them clog up or cause issues. With you being in a potential rust area I wouldn't mess with it unless I absolutely had to.

They are required to change at 30k per the manual. I've emptied them on the pump side and saw black crud come out. It is a PITA to remove, especially if never done in decades.

 

[Turdle]

Question..... other than preventive maintenance is there another reason your trying to replace the fuel filter? Very rarely do I see them clog up or cause issues. With you being in a potential rust area I wouldn't mess with it unless I absolutely had to.

I kinda might have suggested it in her bucking ( which I translated to hesitation) thread.She asked "any other things I should do or look at" , saying something to the effect she was way out of town, it was inconvenient to get there,and what else should I grab while I am there.
Since it is cheap maintenance I threw it in.
I'm on the fence with you on this one, but why wait for it to leave her stranded or set off a CEL? Since she wants , or, rather needs to be self reliant this is not out of line IMO Unless she knows for sure it has been done before.
Hoping for a good outcome.

 

[J_C]

I'd expect the fuel pump itself to fail, possibly starting in hot weather, before the fuel filter gets clogged, unless the tank is shot. Isn't the pressure regulator on the pump for ('99 and newer?) Maybe temperature is affecting that.

My point is I would look elsewhere than fuel system if the pressure stays within spec. I'd get a loaner fuel gauge from Autozone and have it ready for the next time it starts bucking, though possibly needing to tug on the throttle cable (manually rotate throttle body valve by hand) to raise RPM if doing it without an assistant to press the gas pedal while you're in front of the vehicle looking at the gauge.

 

[Turdle]

Um, it's been a while since you posted,
Hope you are ok.

 

[koda2000]

I'd expect the fuel pump itself to fail, possibly starting in hot weather, before the fuel filter gets clogged, unless the tank is shot. Isn't the pressure regulator on the pump for ('99 and newer?) Maybe temperature is affecting that.

My point is I would look elsewhere than fuel system if the pressure stays within spec. I'd get a loaner fuel gauge from Autozone and have it ready for the next time it starts bucking, though possibly needing to tug on the throttle cable (manually rotate throttle body valve by hand) to raise RPM if doing it without an assistant to press the gas pedal while you're in front of the vehicle looking at the gauge.

In my experience with fuel pumps (which is not inconsiderable) a clogged fuel filter can ruin a fuel pump, but probably unlikely on a '99 Explorer as the FPR is located in the fuel tank. Unless the in-tank FPR physically breaks they seldom cause problems. More often one of the two pieces of fuel line connecting the fuel pump to the FPR, or the FPR to the fuel pump assembly, can become loose or split. Also the most likely time of year for fuel pumps to fail is in the Fall with fuel pumps which have 150k-200k on them. This usually begins with intermittent starting on cold mornings, because the motor's brushes don't make adequate contact with the motor's armature due to brush wear and weakened springs. This prevents the fuel pump from running. When the fuel temp increases (or sometimes "thumping" the bottom of the fuel tank) will get the fuel pump to run for the rest of the day, but it most likely will fail again the next cold morning. I also find that when the fuel pump fails to run, turning the ignition key from OFF to ON multiple times (sometimes many times) will get the fuel pump to run temporarily.

Of the 7 Explorer/Mountaineer fuel pumps I've had to replace, all put one failure began with intermittent starting during cold weather. The 1 pump that flat-out stopped working was a 10 month old AirTex pump.

 

[J_C]

^ The theory is that in summer they can run too hot if the fuel tank is low, though I don't know of any testing that proves this.

 

[koda2000]

^ The theory is that in summer they can run too hot if the fuel tank is low, though I don't know of any testing that proves this.

It's true that running the tank very low can cause premature pump wear due to lack of cooling, but you'd have to me someone who did this on a regular basis (like my youngest daughter). Even then I feel that's less likely to ruin a fuel pump than what happens from normal wear after 200k or so. I try to always buy fuel when the gauge indicated 1/4 tank or less. My daughter uses the drivers message center "distance remaining" to try to make it to payday. I've told her that that is a bad idea, but I'll sometimes get in her truck to move it and see the message center saying 20 miles or less remaining. It's never caused a fuel pump issue to-date. My advice is, if you have 150k or more on your original OE fuel pump, replace it before it leaves you stranded (and don't buy an AirTex pump).

 

[Sunshiney]

Hello Everyone! I wanted to let everyone know how very thankful and overwhelmed I have been by the generous giving of your time to me. I feel so blessed and so empowered, too! I have fixed my door window, all by myself. The glue on the thangys that hold the bottom of the window had degraded. I was able to pull the speaker out of the door, the panel -- without breaking any of those plastic holders -- and popped bottom back into the black plastic squeezy holders. Waited 24 hours. It's perfect now! I myself -- yes me -- changed the fuel filter all by my lonesome, just in case and as part of the "solve the bucking" problem. I ck'd clean the MAS (new word for me). I put in fresh gas. Ckd all fluids. Ckd Borrowed this fancy dancy diagnostic scanner that cks the fuel pump, codes. All fine. I put in a can of Sea Foam into gas tank.

I drove it into town and back -- about 40 miles roundtrip. And she ran smooth as ice and as quiet as a kitty without a purr.

I don't know if what was wrong is fixed. I'm heading down a snake-like 12 mile grade with a 6% incline that's fast going down and leaves some at the side of the road overheated in a few minutes. We'll see how she does coming up the grade.

I cannot believe I did all of this on my Ford. Still processing my new skills!! My nails are a wreck .lol..but nothing that can't be fixed. My husband has to be smiling down on me... I bet he can't believe it either. I'm kind of a girly girl so this is just sooooo cool. What I learned is that some of this stuff takes some muscle, takes being willing to get dirty, and gets you into spots that are hard to maneuver in. But as long as you have the help of men from the explore forum, it's do-able!!!

Anybody need a transmission replaced? I'm ready for the next job. Just teasing.

Thanks fellows. You are all beyond awesome and I hope your wives and girlfriends adore you!! If you are ever in SE Washington state/border Idaho -- you have a beer, a fishing rod, a hunting guide and a pie or cookie maker at your beck-and-call here.

 

[koda2000]

Not to belabor the point, but I believe that you mean you cleaned the MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow sensor). Glad you hear you managed to change the fuel filter, which is definitely not an easy job. Did you take my advice and lube your window channels with spray silicon?