Doing a headgasket on 98 exp 5.0 | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Doing a headgasket on 98 exp 5.0

ALRIGHT guys check this out... just as expected but did not want to own up to it... go back up to my last couple of posts that has the hardcore50.com link... there is intake valve to piston smack... i enclosed pics... i am glad i found this and will be ordering a tool or will be self grinding all the areas of concern.. well i am glad the pushrods gave way vice (crossing fingers) bending valves.. as far as feeling the bind.. i never really did and i even turned the motor by hand several times.. peace


HERE IS THE LINK
http://www.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=49266
 



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Good, now you know what to work on. Be sure to deburr the edges of the valve reliefs. I hate to think of doing that piston notching with the engine in the truck.
 






Saw the pics. Glad you found the problem. Those pistons do NOT look like Mustang pistons. I can send you a pic of mine if you want.

I changed my mind... I will stick to the transmission issue. :)

I actually got it almost back together for testing...
 






Saw the pics. Glad you found the problem. Those pistons do NOT look like Mustang pistons. I can send you a pic of mine if you want.

I changed my mind... I will stick to the transmission issue. :)

I actually got it almost back together for testing...

if you can send me the top of what the explorer pistons look like that would be awesome, from what I seen they did look like the valve reliefs from fox body mustangs... BUT as stated in hardcore50...with a ridiculously stock cam, them valve should not even be coming close to the pistons.. even if the pistons were flat top... i am chaning the timing chain the weekdend to see if that cures it along with ford lifters in place of the summit brand lifters...

send pics here or to me at chrisdf_382@yahoo.com

by the way.. I updated the hardcore50.com post just a lil bit ago in regards to a new OE style double roller timing chain i just ordered from auto zone.
 






The GT40P heads have valve locations different than other OEM Ford heads. I read elsewhere that they are lower etc. by a good .100" towards the pistons.

Anyway, piston to valve clearance is affected much more by the camshaft valve timing events, than the static lift figure. A cam can be made to provide a lot more PVC or a lot less, that's part of a cam designer's skills. I'm not suggesting changing the cam, I would also have chosen the HO cam for a very low budget engine.

I would however consult with a cam expert about the best way to gain PVC for your engine. The man who made my cam would do that for me. I don't know how likely he or other cam designers would be to help a non customer.

To diagnose that you need to have a clearance measurement, and know the exact cam used, and the pistons. What is that shortblock made for, what are the pistons?
 






if you can send me the top of what the explorer pistons look like that would be awesome.

I emailed you a pic of my '95 Hyper pistons from a stock GT. I do not have a pic of my explorer pistons. I haven't had to tear into it. Transmission...yes....many pics. :) :)
 












I don't think I have installed a timing chain set off from centered with the multiple key ways or marks. I'd have to see it to make sense of it, but without degreeing the cam I'd make it straight up. Hopefully that's the last problem you have with it.
 






Glad you got it running. I don't even want to tell you the stupid stuff I have done lately. We all make mistakes. Be sure to let us know how it runs!
 






got it fired up about 5pm today.. ran it for about 30 seconds and shut it down.. went to walmart to get coolant because i had not yet filled the cooling system.. man.. what a freakin headache and relief this has all been.

OK.. here is some questions i have... I threw a timing light on the balancer at idle it sits damn near 20 degrees advanced... is that suppose to be normal or should it be 10 degrees BTDC??? If so then I will readjust the cam sensor in relation to the crank mark. I set the balancer at 0 TDC then set the cam position sensor.. CHILTONs book says to do it with the balancer at 10 degrees ATDC... does it really matter??? please thanks!!
 






Interesting, I had only read to set it at TDC. That does affect the timing though, so be careful with that. There is no knock sensor like on the later engines and the V6. But in any case when you go about tuning the PCM makes all of the changes. If you have a stock engine then you don't have to get a flasher for tuning the PCM. Those help a lot for power and efficiency, for any modified engine you would need that.
 






I have not looked at adjusting the timing on the truck, but if you don't stop the computer from advancing the timing (which it normally does at idle) you will get a high reading like that. There is usually a spout connector that stops advance, and I could swear I saw one near the coil pack on my truck. It is a square plastic piece that pulls out of an electrical connector. You have to do this on the older 302s to set the timing. This is my first coil packed 302 though.

Funny how are schedules are so close. I got my truck back on the road a couple of days ago. The bad news is, I now have a strange rattle/rub noise that even a guy at the trans shop is not sure what is causing it. Could be torque converter, flywheel, or something in the engine. Seeing as I didn't have it with my last transmission, I would say it is something tranny related. Think I will drive it for a while and see.
 






Very true, you can't set the synchronizer while the engine is running. You don't know what the PCM is doing while you are looking at the timing light.

There is no spout connector on the Explorer 302's, you can't shut down the PCM control.
 






Hey Don, I just walked out to my truck and there is a spout connector. It looks exactly like my '95 GT spout connector... ??? Unless it doesn't work the same?
 






Hmmmm...maybe it is C103, "Octane Adjust" shorting bar. "Provides voltage information to the PCM for modification of Ignition Spark Advance". Maybe it means if you pull it, it won't adjust timing. Maybe it means something completely different. :) :) That is all I could find in my shop CD. If I had time today, I would pull it to check timing, but we are getting ready to go to a picnic.

Ahhh...a quick search yielded an answer. The shorting bar is good for 3 degrees. Ford probably had a bunch left over so they decided to create a new circuit for it. hahahhaha

There is info on it below.

www.ford-trucks.com/forums/162016-octane-adjust-shorting-bar-c110.html
 






It's a big mess of wires, I try to keep the rodents away from it that's all I can say.

Go for the picnic now, it's supposed to rain harder at some point today. I've waited for it to stop long enough to put out fertilizer again. I'll have my trans in many pieces soon too, and inventorying parts. I still will need a few.
 






intersting info guys.. so should i leave it or redrop in the cam sensor at 10 degrees ATDC vice the TDC that it was dropped in.. I guess I could try it and see if it is a no **** computer take over type bs.

thanks.. KILL
 






Heading to picnic now...

I would say drive it as is. 20 degrees at idle does not sound like a ton of timing... If you get a lot of spark knock, then you will know it is too advanced.

Hey Don, I might take apart my other transmission as a learning tool...
 






It is common to see way over 20 degrees in EECIV Mustangs if you don't pull the spout connector. I recall 28 degrees once, I usually didn't forget to pull the spout.

Yes drive it, I think setting it off at TDC is the way to go.

Do take the other one apart, build it for a spare or to resell. I unfortunately have lots of spare parts, and nothing built to resell. I don't count one AOD though which I built for my 73 Ranchero, that may never run either though.

Outside, it stopped raining.
 



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it now has 38 miles on the motor... all seems well... i did floor it from 40 - 50mph.. the tires broke loose.. just kidding!! it felt good though. gonna do the first oil change tomorrow morning. the tranny fluid is nice and red but needs to be changed...it smells a lil nasty/burnt. tranny works great though.
 






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