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Door Ajar Light Question

bhults

Well-Known Member
Joined
August 29, 2003
Messages
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City, State
Forked River, NJ
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 Eddie Bauer
Hey guys -

Been a long while since I've been on here, but it's good to see nothings changed. Still got my Ex - 180K miles on her, and still running good.

OK, down to business. Out of the blue, my door ajar light came on but none of my doors were ajar. It's playing games with me now because sometimes it's off, but it's more on than it is off. I think the problem door may be the drivers door - If I slam it really hard, the light will go off for a while, before eventually coming back on. I can't lock the truck because the faulty switch is causing the alarm to go off intermittently, and as most everyone already knows, the interior lights stay on when the ignition is OFF. I've been pulling the fuse to circumvent that.

I've already searched and found a few answers that I hope might work. As for spraying WD40 or some other lubricant into the latches/handles, where exactly am I spraying? Directly into the latch on the door jamb? Also, as for locating the problem door, I've read that the door that does NOT chime when opened is the problem door. Are we talking about the 'tone' you hear? All other doors tone; the drivers door should tone, followed immediately by the repetitive default Ford chime. Is the absence of the tone what I'm actually listening for?

If the problem latch is, in fact, in one of the doors, how involved is it to replace?

THANKS!!!!
 



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With the engine running you will get a slightly different alarm when a door is opened, unless that door has a bad interlock switch. You are listening for a single chime

If you just want to fix the "symptom" you can merely disconnect the door switch connector. This will eliminate the alarm and door ajar light, however, if someone breaks into that door the alarm will not sound, and, the interior auto dome light will not operate with that door open.

The switch is inside the door latch.
 






Would it be better to simply leave the key in ON position, with engine off, to test the doors? I suspect the drivers door because SLAMMING it will get it the light to go out...
 






Well, I almost can't believe it - and am afraid to speak too soon - but the WD40 trick seemed to work. Turns out the original suspect, the rear glass, seemed to be the culprit. Now time will tell... Thanks again!
 






Hi Bhults, I am having the same exact problem as yours but I got confused when you mentioned about the fixed you made. Can you clarify the rear glass suspect for me? Would that be the rear window on the liftgate and not the driver side door? Did you remove the panel to access it? Thanks.
 






The problem I had was in the latch that secures the glass to the gate - not the drivers door. I didn't have to remove anything in the gate. I simply opened the rear glass, and sprayed WD into the opening. I then opened and closed the glass several times, and I haven't had a problem since.
 






Thanks Bults, I just did that and presto, it worked. The interior lights went off and I also sprayed the rest of the latches with WD-40 just incase. Thanks again Bhults..
 






Thanks Bults, I just did that and presto, it worked. The interior lights went off and I also sprayed the rest of the latches with WD-40 just incase. Thanks again Bhults..

No problemo! That's what this place is for! Also, thanks to Turdle for the specific instruction.
 






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