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Dora is dead...

Did the truck run ok before you brought it in to the shop? If yes, then fixing the mandatory items yourself is probably the best course of action. If anything it will give you a much better resale value. Besides as others have suggested any older used vehicle you buy will be coming with a new set of unknown and potentially expensive repairs needed.

Still don't see the complete list of issues from the mechanic. That much said, the most expensive item you listed is tires. An ok new set will run around $500 if you shop around. More than likely you can get a reasonable used set for half that.

Any quote from a mechanic is going to be primarily labor and parts mark-up. Not knocking the profession, that's just how it works. If you are willing to do the work, the issues listed so far aren't too complex.

Ball joints are cheap, just require elbow grease. There are plenty of good right-ups with pictures on the forum.

Since it was apparently running ok, would only replace a cat if it was setting off a CEL that caused a problem with inspection.

Don't know if fixing the rocker rust is required for inspection. If it is, don't dispair. Rocker rust may seem like a killer, but truthfully bending up some sheet metal is not that difficult. Get a $25 electric grinder from harbor freight with some extra wheels and a pair of safety googles. Cut out the rust then remove the paint for about an inch all around the area on the good metal. A pair of tin snips can cut the new sheet to rough shape. Bend over a straight edge (think cement curb and 2x4 with hammer). Set in place then drill holes about 1-1/2 inches apart along the length of the piece and pop-rivet in place. Little bondo along the edge seals it up and covers the rivets. Wet sand, wipe down with acetone. Then just coat of spray primer followed by few coats of automotive paint, buff and done. Weekend project for well under $100. If you take your time with bondo and sanding/painting, the finished product can look seamless. Even if it's a little rough, it will certainly pass an inspection and look a heck of a lot better than rusted out holes.

My dad was so upset when our mechanic told him that he forgot what was wrong. Today we're going there to decide whether we're getting it fixed or not, and to talk to our mechanic, and try to get a feel for how much DIY stuff there is.
 



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Sorry if I've been unclear, I am really bad at articulating my point on forums.
 






most of us here do our own repairs. you may not want to, or be able to, in which case i understand why you're leaning toward replacing your Ex (especially with significant rust issues). i scrapped a 2001 XLT SOHC this past spring because the timing chains went and, while i'm capable of doing the repairs, i just couldn't justify spending the time or money on the truck even though the body and interior were pretty good and it had zero rust.

if paying someone $1500 will get your Ex road worth and reasonably reliable i'd personally spend the money on it rather than buying a used 13 year old sedan with unknown issues. if you and/or your dad can make some of the repairs yourself, that's money in your pocket. good luck!
 






all this talk seems like people are trying to convince this guy to keep the ex... that's not the issue. his parents have decided that the truck's a POS and that they are getting rid of it... it's not up to him. i was in the same situation once, many many moons ago, and i really wanted to fix it and keep the thing going, but there really isn't anything you can do once mom wants it gone. i feel for you buddy, hopefully you can get another one someday
 






Well, since your Exploder is pretty much all but gone...

I'm partial to the first generation LH-body Chrysler products (93-97 Intrepid, Concorde, LHS, Eagle Vision) with the 3.3 these cars are pretty much indestructible and still get you 5 passenger seating with 20mpg around town. Decent examples can be had for a grand or so.

Bill
 






all this talk seems like people are trying to convince this guy to keep the ex... that's not the issue. his parents have decided that the truck's a POS and that they are getting rid of it... it's not up to him. i was in the same situation once, many many moons ago, and i really wanted to fix it and keep the thing going, but there really isn't anything you can do once mom wants it gone. i feel for you buddy, hopefully you can get another one someday

Thanks! It's truly a beast that I feel no other car can match up to.
 






Well, my take on it is that it could still be up to the OP. If it's otherwise headed for the junkyard then it could be bought from the parents and fixed at low cost too.

Rocker panels do seem the larger cosmetic issue and yet those can wait. It doesn't change emissions or driveability. Let's get a tally of other parts just for the heck of it:

Catalytic converter and pipe (pre-cut and bent to fit, including the resonator all the way back to the muffler, IIRC) are roughly $200 from Advance Auto parts after %-off discount coupon codes you can easily find with a google search, ordering each part separate so you can use two coupon codes. I mean for the V6 SOHC version, don't know if price rises for the V8 version.

Old CAT may be worth $100 to a junkyard. Add $5 for a muffler shop to expand a pipe if you don't want to do that yourself (since it's a PITA without a hydraulic expander) and misc things like a hanger or clamp or two and you could be looking at only a $125 DIY, bolt-on repair.

I don't know what a ball joint costs (too lazy to check) but I'm guessing under $35, plus what, a free loaner tool from Auto Zone to pop it out.

Tires are a bigger expense, BUT then it has new tires which you'd eventually (sooner) need to buy for another car anyway.

Regardless you may be able to get more than $500 out of it as-is if only the rockers are rusted out. I just got $350 for an '88 Olds sedan from a junkyard and used car prices aren't particularly high here. It ran, but it was destined to become just a parts car not one returned to the road. The paint was shot long ago, bottom rusting out, tires were bald, brakes shot, and instead of the original catalytic converter which I swapped when the end pipe on it rusted out and sold to a junkyard for $175, it had a replacement new CAT worth only $40 as scrap (not as much valuable metals in the new generic replacements). lol, only thing it really had going for it was the 3800 engine still ran good (when it started), lowish miles for its age and power seats.

On the other hand, total cost of ownership (not even counting gas) will likely be lower on an Altima or equivalent unless the owner is hiding some problem with it which is quite possible.
 






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