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Dual Batteries in a '00
- Thread starter Jefe
- Start date
Devan
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- April 18, 2017
- Messages
- 172
- Reaction score
- 40
- Location
- central jerz
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 01 BoostedXPLR Sport
- Callsign
- Devman
I took Jefe's idea and improved upon it a little but I might not have come up with it without having seen Jefe's build here. No offense Jefe but that wiring doesn't look so good. Current wiring setup is temporary due to the fact Im waiting on about 25 ft of 1/0 gauge(16mm OD) Kolossus Fleks Kable wiring and a 500 amp isolator and some batt terminals and some ring terminals etc. Trucks odometer just turned passed 300,000 miles a couple months ago. Motor is still original and timing drive has never been done yet, prolly just going to build a new motor for it and run more boost and port the blower or perhaps a bigger blower(ported and pullied Thunderbird Eaton M-90 or Cobra Eaton M-112 or GT500 Eaton M-122) I would prolly never go with the M-122 tho because it doesn't whine anything like the M-112 does plus I have a spare ported M112 already, it depends on the 4.0 SOHC I build. Of course if I could fit a 4.6 DOHC or SOHC in there than that would be the route I would go. Replaced Trans at 240,000, gonna rebuild and bulletproof the original trans, rear axle assy replaced with an LSD diff(truck wasn't originally LSD, however some XPLR Sports and Sport Tracs are). Got the axle assy out of a sport trac and took the entire axle assy and a little more down to bare metal and painted it up black with some heavy duty paint. Truck is Supercharged(Thunderbird Eaton M-90) with dual alternator and dual battery now, as well as meth injection, 2 12 inch subs and speakers with pioneer avic z3 head unit, Custom Xbox360 that I built to watch Netflix while driving lmao, is mounted to side of subwoofer box soon to be replaced with an extremely custom 1st Gen Xbox One that I built which will go on top of the subwoofer box and amp will be relocated to inside the box perhaps. Also truck has 2 wall outlets with usb, one on the right side of center console and other in luggage compartment, power inverter is hidden behind passenger side kick panel, Custom Quad gauge pod that I made(only one of its kind that I know of, can be seen in my profile pic). I also have an extremely custom snow plow system and custom snow plow controller that I built for the truck which is what really made me have to go dual alt and dual batt. See when you buy a high amp alternator a lot of the time high amp alts have terrible voltage at idle even with a smaller pulley, so the primary alternator on my truck is a Tuff(I think)Stuff 250 amp painted black and my secondary alternator which is actually a GM AD244 alt which I got out of a Tahoe at the Junkyard. I was actually trying to get the lowest amperage alt that I could find, mimimum 90 amps so that my idle voltage would be phenomenal. The stock alt in the year Tahoe I got the alt out of is either 100 or 105 amps from the factory but its a good bet its been replaced and oem manufacturers make replacement AD244 alts in the 130-140 amp range. So the truck has capability for almost 400 amps and my voltage stays around 13.8 to 14 volts, 90% of the time the voltage is so high that the battery light on my instrument cluster is on lol, I could def get rid of that if I want but if it goes out than that lets me know I might have an alt issue lol. Even with all my accessories on and my subs bumpin real hard it doesn't really drop below 13 volts. Truck also has LED everything except plate bulbs because I really don't need those to be soo bright if ya catch my drift. Also I converted all the lighting in the dashboard and dashboard buttons to LED, that doesn't include the bulbs in the instrument cluster not yet anyway but that isn't that big of a deal since I have an EL glow gauge face overlay as you can see from my profile pic.
As far as the dual battery bracket goes, wiring is temp like I said and I still have to paint the bracket as well as prepping and painting my secondary alt, but I went about fabrication and mounting and relocation of other things a little differently then Jefe did. On Jefes pics he cutout some of the wheel well I did not, I also noticed his ABS module bracket was no longer there which can leave the ABS module floating and bouncing around which could damage the module or those knocks could even be picked up by the knock sensor and if I was hearing a knock in the cabin while driving that would get on my nerves. However I did relocate the ABS module rearward about half an inch. I removed the male threads that come out of the bottom of the ABS module bracket with an air hammer and I also had to remove some metal from the bottom rearward part of the bracket as well and then made new bracket mounting holes about a half inch rearward from the original holes. I also relocated the battery junction box rearward about half inch. I also had to relocate a bunch of my wiring and intercooler to heat exchanger tubing into the fender between the inner and outer fender above the wheel well splash shield. But I did end up having to shave down the radiator support in front of the forward battery about 1/2-3/4 inches. And that's really all I can think of for now. Ill post some new pics after I paint and rewire everything.
As far as the dual battery bracket goes, wiring is temp like I said and I still have to paint the bracket as well as prepping and painting my secondary alt, but I went about fabrication and mounting and relocation of other things a little differently then Jefe did. On Jefes pics he cutout some of the wheel well I did not, I also noticed his ABS module bracket was no longer there which can leave the ABS module floating and bouncing around which could damage the module or those knocks could even be picked up by the knock sensor and if I was hearing a knock in the cabin while driving that would get on my nerves. However I did relocate the ABS module rearward about half an inch. I removed the male threads that come out of the bottom of the ABS module bracket with an air hammer and I also had to remove some metal from the bottom rearward part of the bracket as well and then made new bracket mounting holes about a half inch rearward from the original holes. I also relocated the battery junction box rearward about half inch. I also had to relocate a bunch of my wiring and intercooler to heat exchanger tubing into the fender between the inner and outer fender above the wheel well splash shield. But I did end up having to shave down the radiator support in front of the forward battery about 1/2-3/4 inches. And that's really all I can think of for now. Ill post some new pics after I paint and rewire everything.
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