E303 Cam and 1.7 Rocker rollers

[compdoc777]

I am 99% sure that my 98 AWD V8 Mountaineer is not 900 pounds lighter than my 91 Explorer was. I got the 4700 pound mark from a scale when I went to a local scrap yard.

Someone else should comment here about the weight. I doubt that the literature that you have read is accurate. I doubt that there are any SUV's which weigh less than 4000 pounds. You would be better served to believe what myself and others here suggest is the actual weight of the Explorers.
Regards,
DonW

They have a scale at the race track over here I'll get the weight next time I am out there.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's a good idea. If the weight was similar to the Mustang, then all of the your changes would have the exact same effect. Unfortunately, the weight difference is the main reason why the Mustang is about three seconds quicker in the quarter mile.
Don

 

[james t]

My 96 2wd 5liter w/cobra R's and no spare scaled just a tad over 4300. Thats about as light as you're gonna get in a 4 door explorer.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's good, I was hoping that the 2WD was hundreds lighter.
Don

 

[SilverBullet]

I went to the landfill the other day, and had to have my X weighed.. 2001 4 door Eddie Bauer, 5.0 AWD weighed in round 4600lbs.. I forget what the gas tank level was though.

This is some good info though.. I was just going to buy an E303, but now you guys are making me think..

 

[Billy177]

with the E303 and 1.7rockers in an explorer, i would not be suprised if it ran slower then stock

 

[CDW6212R]

I came across the old box from the Wolverine camshaft that I mentioned before.
It's a Wolverine Blue Racer WG-1190.
It has a 212/222 .050 duration, with lift of .493/.510, lobe centers 107 and 117.

This cam has more intake duration than any of the stock cams, and about the same as the SVO cams. It will idle very nicely in a mild 302, and help the entire Explorer RPM range. I had intended to use it in a Mark VII with turbos, but needs made me sell the engine.
This is very close to what I would expect to be recommended by a cam tech, for a 302 Explorer/Mountaineer. The Ford FRP cams have too much intake duration for the RPM range of an Explorer.
Regards,
Don

 

[rocket 5979]

I apologise if I missed something, due to the fact that I didnt take the time to read the other posts.

Go with the 1.7's only if you plan on either regearing the rear end and raising the rev limiter and shift points, or instead of regearing the rear, changing the TC to a higher stall TC or about 2800-3000. The only real big reason I went with them is because I knew I was going to rev the hell out of my trucks engine because I had a centrifugal supercharger that makes best boost while in higher rpms. If you dont plan on doing much then go with the 1.6's. If you want to really get down and dirty with a centrifugal or turbo setup then going with the 1.7's isnt too bad an option.

 

[rocket 5979]

Oh BTW I forgot to mention that I was planning on eventually revving well past 6000 rpms.

 

[compdoc777]

I apologise if I missed something, due to the fact that I didnt take the time to read the other posts.

Go with the 1.7's only if you plan on either regearing the rear end and raising the rev limiter and shift points, or instead of regearing the rear, changing the TC to a higher stall TC or about 2800-3000. The only real big reason I went with them is because I knew I was going to rev the hell out of my trucks engine because I had a centrifugal supercharger that makes best boost while in higher rpms. If you dont plan on doing much then go with the 1.6's. If you want to really get down and dirty with a centrifugal or turbo setup then going with the 1.7's isnt too bad an option.

Well I do plan on supercharging and I can rergear the rearend and change the TC.

 

[rocket 5979]

Well I do plan on supercharging and I can regear the rearend and change the TC.

If you are dead serious about it then do the 1.7's. But if it is just a supercharger on a basically stock engine then you might as well stay with the 1.6's. I had already put over $8,000 into the engine of my truck and had another $5,000 to go before I was where I wanted to be. Some people on this site, and about 5 other sites dealing with either explorers or muscle cars, tend to come out of the gate running full bore and then let their plans fizzle out due to less money than they thought they would have for the project or something else. The worst thing a person can do is change their plans in the middle of a big project like this. So I really have to ask you, what are your full plans with this truck? Little more power than stock? Just a supercharger, or equivalent? Streetracer? Serious Streetracer/weekend dragracer? 600 horsepower pump gas all around badass? All out dragracer? Trailer Queen? Big horsepower Offroader? I apologise if I appear to be talking down on this but there are tons of people that waste others time with detailed questions and never follow through. I have had at least 50 people do that with me alone. That is why Troll and Blk Mk8 rarely post on the forums anymore. So just let us know what your EXACT goals are and we can take the advice from there.

 

[compdoc777]

what are your full plans with this truck? Little more power than stock? Just a supercharger, or equivalent? Streetracer? Serious Streetracer/weekend dragracer?

I want to get to at least 14.0 second 1/4 maybe lower with a 100shot of NOS I have that kit. Street racer- to the speed limit of course.

What I have so far:
MAC CAI
MAC Exhaust
Torque Monster Headers
Polished Cobra upper lower Inake Mani
1.7 FR Rocker rollers
E303 Cam
24 lb Injectors
80mm MAF
100-150 shot Nitrous kit

Looking to get:

Aluminum Cobra Heads Ford Racing $700
Pet Jackson Gear $80
Electric water pump $80

Super charger like a paxton or vortex $???

Lowering handling suspension kit $800

18" Polished Cobra wheels and performance tires $1200

So an investment of about $3000K plus the cost of the super charger.

Let me know if I should minus some and add others.

 

[rocket 5979]

I want to get to at least 14.0 second 1/4 maybe lower with a 100shot of NOS I have that kit. Street racer- to the speed limit of course.

Let me know if I should minus some and add others.

If all you want is 14.0's then it is easier than what you got all listed. First off I would add a built bottom end and built tranny to your list too. That is about another $4000 right there if you get a good price. If your going to do it, do it right. Cause if you plan on running all this that and the other thing, you will have breakage. I owuld not even bother with 1.7 rr's and gears or TC if all you want is 14.0. You can get to the low 14's without all that. I thought you were going for 12's or something, thats why I suggested the possibility for the 1.7's, TC and stuff. I would not bother with the Cobra intake, I would get a true dual exhaust with an H pipe crossover,that MAC I think is just a single Y exhaust, right? I also would leave the Cobra heads out too as the Explorer heads flow pretty well and you would only need to move onto something better if you were going for a lower time. I would say choose only one power adder. Either get there with nitrous or get there with a supercharger, one or the other. Nitrous would be cheaper in the beginning but it get quite expensive to fill that bottle all the time. With a charger the power is on tap all the time. It is up to you. There is some stuff that you got on your list that is overkill for what your looking for and just kinda like wasted money. With a 150 shot of nitrous alone minus the other power mods will pretty much get you there. But with a 150 shot there are other things you need to do to make it run right. First lets go with air/fuel ratio. Since your adding more air through the nitrous, you need to add more fuel. bigger injectors, bigger MAFS programmed to match, chip to reprogram it all together. New returnless type fuel pump. and then once you got your fuel issues fixed then I would move to strength. Running a 100 shot would be ok on the stock bottom end for a while, but running the 150 I would see problems arising fairly soon if you ran it often. So I would suggest getting a forged bottom end through DSS or someone. If you want to try to run the stock bottom end of the engine than be my guest but I will forewarn you that breakage will probably be quick to follow. With the tranny I would at the very least go with an additional tranny cooler and a shift kit from Baumann. MINIMUM! But I would really reccomend getting a built 4R70W tranny and install it to be safe. Again this is a personal decision about money available at the time, so if you want to try to run the stocker for a little while then go ahead but stand by. You seem to have two totally different plans rolled into one in your parts list. One for nitrous and the other for a supercharger. But if you only are looking for 14's then you dont need all of it. If you want to do it right then I would go forged bottom end from DSS and at least replace the input shaft from your existing 4R70W tranny with the other supporting mods for it. A fully built one from Lentech would be best. Erase the parts list and tell me what goals you have in mind, both serious short term and serious long term and then we got something to begin building off of. As for now your list doesnt match your goals.

 

[compdoc777]

A fully built one from Lentech would be best. Erase the parts list and tell me what goals you have in mind, both serious short term and serious long term and then we got something to begin building off of. As for now your list doesnt match your goals.

Yeah, I want to add a super charger now. Which one though? Powerdyne or a eaton type?

 

[rocket 5979]

Yeah, I want to add a super charger now. Which one though? Powerdyne or a eaton type?

Comp that doesnt explain what your specific goals are. That just says that you want a supercharger. The Eaton(Roots) and the Powerdyne(centrifugal) could not be any further from one another in the planning process. Just because a person wants a supercharger doesnt mean there arent 15 ways to go about getting exactly what they want. That is why I asked about the whole, "What is it going to be used for?", thing. Some ways will keep it simpler, if say the person just wants to et a little more power out their vehicle. Other ways to start out will lead to better performance down the road when that persons possible long term goals for the vehicle start to kick in. Like I said, any advice given from anyone will need to be first answered with your reply of, "How far do you really want to go?".

I am going to go out on a limb and take a wild guess and just suggest that you go with an Eaton supercharger kit and leave it at that.

 

[BeauJ]

Haha, I can always count on Rocket giving me a long/complicated post

I ran a 14.3 at Commerce, GA in about 43 degree weather

I was damn happy I kept up with that lightning in a lane beside me. I made it a point to have him race me and he thought he was gonna smoke me. He jumped out when we were getting time slips and said "DUDE, Dude, what the hell do you have in it?". I just need to know how much commitment you have on this and how much money you can spend.

Ps. Rocket needs to sell me his XB-1A

 

[compdoc777]

Comp that doesnt explain what your specific goals are. That just says that you want a supercharger. The Eaton(Roots) and the Powerdyne(centrifugal) could not be any further from one another in the planning process. Just because a person wants a supercharger doesnt mean there arent 15 ways to go about getting exactly what they want. That is why I asked about the whole, "What is it going to be used for?", thing. Some ways will keep it simpler, if say the person just wants to et a little more power out their vehicle. Other ways to start out will lead to better performance down the road when that persons possible long term goals for the vehicle start to kick in. Like I said, any advice given from anyone will need to be first answered with your reply of, "How far do you really want to go?".

I am going to go out on a limb and take a wild guess and just suggest that you go with an Eaton supercharger kit and leave it at that.

Ok, I am not looking for end all be all of performance. I have tons of parts now. Yet, I just want smooth linear power from low to high... I want low 14 sec cap if I get on it. I want to bearly touch the pedal and have the it go and if i dip it a little I can feel the power and I want it all the time.

When I hit the gas from a stop or at speed I want it to respond instantly and push me back in my seat and make me grin from ear to ear as the cars beside me become distant specs in my rearview.

I want it as cheap as possible with my available parts, but I want a supercharger. Powerdyne or Explorer Express... I would like to use my polished cobra intake because I want to show my truck and engine, but roots if it will be better!

 

[BeauJ]

The roots will give you the low end boost that you speak of. But you can make the centrifugal just keep pulling through the RPM range. There are pros/cons against both. I'd do a google search to look them up. But if I had cobra intakes I'd def. go with the powerdyne.

 

[compdoc777]

The roots will give you the low end boost that you speak of. But you can make the centrifugal just keep pulling through the RPM range. There are pros/cons against both. I'd do a google search to look them up. But if I had cobra intakes I'd def. go with the powerdyne.

Is this a good price? Or is there a cheaper place to find the polished charger?

http://www.carperform.com/2007.html powerdyne

http://www.carperform.com/2273.html vortech

 

[rocket 5979]

Beau: Shhhhhhh.....I wanna keep the XB on the DL.....lol. It think I have gotten no less than 50 requests asking for me to sell this thing. lol. But I have asked it if it wants a new home and it just doesnt answer, so it must want to stay with me. lol.


Compdoc: THANKS!!! Thats the answer I was looking for comp!

Ok then. Lets get down to business. From what you say it sounds like you want what I wanted but maybe not to as huge of an extent as I was starting out for. I would say get a centrifugal supercharger, run a higher stall TC(3000 rpm or so), Gears as an option to the TC or in addition to it possibly. That will get you the power to get off the line quickly. But you want to hookup to the pavement so I would say to get a nice set of wide sticky rear tires for the rear. Go with Nitto, or someone and if you really want to stick it on the street than go with a set of drag radials. They do wear alot quicker than normal street radials do. Additional tranny cooler, and shift kit will be a good start, then maybe go built tranny later if ya can. If you got more serious and decided to add a built engine and then of course up the boost of the charger then I would suggest to regear the rear end again if you already geared it for a higher numerical gear. The reason being is that once the stroker or built engine running alot of boost get in there then you will have more power and sooner, so you will not need gears anymore to make up for the lack of power in the low end of the rpm range. The other normal mods that I will mention in addition is of course new injectors, with lower boost I would say some 24's would do ok. For higher boost 36's. For higher boost and built stroker, or built 302 and nitrous also, I would say 42's. You have a 2000 model I believe, so another thing will be getting enough fuel to the injectors once they need it. Go to Walbro or Steeda and see what kind of deals they have on returnless type fuel pumps. They are usually pretty cheap so I would just go all out right away and get dual pumps and slide them in there, that way you never have to even think of modifying your pumps again unless you plan on hitting over 700 rwhp. Chip or tune for all these mods to run together. I suggest getting you EEC reflashed for the cam and rr's, and stroker if you get one, an then get the chip for running the supercharger in addition to it. The reason I suggest it that way is because if you have to remove the charger for a while for any reason, then you can still run strong and safe off of your new EEC tune for the parts still left on the truck. But if you dont want to then just get a chip and it will be ok. I would suggest setting your new shift points around 5800 or so to start with as long as you have upgraded to newer and stronger type valve springs. Then once you do bigger stuff I would look at the dyno sheet and see where my power peaks at and then set the computer to shift the tranny a few hundred rpms past that. That is way in the future though. I am sure I left some smaller things out that others can cover or clarify, but I got it for the most part. Good luck.

-Rob-

BTW Beauj what is all this talk of, "long posts?".