E303 Cam and 1.7 Rocker rollers | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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E303 Cam and 1.7 Rocker rollers

compdoc777

Well-Known Member
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April 5, 2004
Messages
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City, State
Cypress, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 EB, 98 EB, 01 Exped EB
I want to use the E303 cam and got a great deal on the 1.7 Rocker Rollers from ford. Yet, I was talking with someone that thought the 1.7 might be to much for the and touch the pistons. Anyone know about what rockers to properly use? I know there are 1.6 rockers, but I don't want to have to sell mine and buy other new ones.

I want to have the most power and these 1.7 were supposed to be standard equipment on the Cobra motor.
 



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Rocket5979 ran an e-cam with 1.7s. He got a higher stall torque converter though. The 1.7s will raise the powerband up, which is not the best thing to do because you want it between 3k - 5,200rpms on an Explorer.
 






section525 said:
Rocket5979 ran an e-cam with 1.7s. He got a higher stall torque converter though. The 1.7s will raise the powerband up, which is not the best thing to do because you want it between 3k - 5,200rpms on an Explorer.

how much further are we talking. I don't think my explorer has ever hit 5000 rpms. I think it changes gears before that even when I am on it.
How many rpm can the motor handle? I my motive is quick launch and a fast 0-60 generally smoke the other SUV's my ultimate goal is to smoke a Porsche SUV. Maybe not the twin turbo... but.. well maybe with my 100 shot of NAWs!

I am upgrading the whole top end with new springs lifters and the works I might even get some GT40 aluminum heads and save 50 lbs on the motor.
 






Either way you will need a specially burned chip. The E-cam alone raises the powerband above what the stock shiftpoints and rev limiter will go. I wouldnt go with 1.7's.... it kills too much low end in the Explorer. PM rocket5979 and ask him..... i think in the end he regreted going with the 1.7's. Also, im pretty sure the 1.7's wont fit under the stock valve covers so thats something else to think about.

If you go with new heads, dont bother with the aluminum Ford heads. Go with some AFR's or TFS heads. Alot better head for the same money.
 






james t said:
Either way you will need a specially burned chip. The E-cam alone raises the powerband above what the stock shiftpoints and rev limiter will go. I wouldnt go with 1.7's.... it kills too much low end in the Explorer. PM rocket5979 and ask him..... i think in the end he regreted going with the 1.7's. Also, im pretty sure the 1.7's wont fit under the stock valve covers so thats something else to think about.

If you go with new heads, dont bother with the aluminum Ford heads. Go with some AFR's or TFS heads. Alot better head for the same money.

Sounds good. I'll see if I can sell these 1.7's
 






Good advice James. The RPM band is the real magic in selecting parts. 4500+ pound Explorers don't need more power at 6000 RPM, they need it at 2000-5000 RPM.

Make changes to make the engine as efficient, and strong, as possible in the stock RPM band. Then add cubic inches, NOS, or supercharging.

The factory OBDII operating system, and intake manifold, are the best parts of the engine. Improve the rest, and enjoy.
Don W
 






Keep in mind with 1.7:1 rockers they will wear your valve guides out alot faster.
 






Can the stock computer compensate for the E303 cam and 1.6 RR. Does this engine have 1.5 RR stock? Going to get flash program eventually, not after i save some more $$
 






I believe that the stock ratio is 1.6:1. The new OBDII PCM's can handle changes much better than the older EECIV system.

I suggest not buying a single pattern cam. Buy a dual pattern cam, with more exhaust timing than intake. They give you better bottom end, and midrange, which is what heavy vehicles need the most. I believe that all of the FRP 302 cams are single pattern cams.

There are many quality aftermarket cam companies. Pick a couple of them, and specifically ask them what cam they would recommend for your application. Don't buy a cam because one or two, or a million, people put that cam in their Mustang. Find the best cam for your vehicle. If you want a lope, at the expense of acceleration, then the E303 cam may be a good choice for you. It will hurt power below about 3000RPM.

Ask the tuning experts here about dyno results with high RPM cams(cams made for more than stock 5000RPM). I'm not trying to offend, just to help. There are dozens of better cams for the Explorer application(4500+ pounds). I'm just trying to point you towards them. Good luck,
DonW
 






if it were me i would either go with the 1.7 rockers and keep the stock cam for easy work. or i would choose a different' cam.

e303+ 1.7rockers is too much cam for an explorer in my opnion
 






As CDW pointed out, the E-cam (and B, F, X, etc) are old school and there is alot better out there not only for an Explorer but any aftermarket 5liter in general. You can get so much more out of the newer dual pattern grinds. Im not dogging the Ford cams, but honestly id look elsewere. You can have a nice dual pattern cam that makes as much or more power on top and midrange than an E303 and has better low end.
 






Again, Ford is my chosen company, but I'm only trying to help. There are many members here are a great source of knowledge. I would love to buy anything from Ford, if they make the best product.

Ford engines, since forever, have poor exhaust flow, compared to the intake flow. I believe that Ford makes single pattern cams for the same reason that the exhaust flow is so poor. Unfortunately, I don't know what that reason is.

If Ford would make dual pattern cams, then they would be my first choice. But they don't, so we should look at the dozens of quality companies which do.

As an example, I rebuilt a 302 from my first Mark VII, after I wrecked it. It had 113k on it, did not smoke, and I was able to reuse the forged pistons. I built it with high quality parts, the same Edelbrock heads and intake that I had before, and a Wolverine cam with about 214/222 duration.

Unfortunately I never got another Lincoln worthy of the engine, and I sold it to a friend for a 95 Cobra. It ran beautifully, with a better idle than the Ford cams, and it turned 6000RPM easily. It was a great starting engine for that Mustang. The friend eventually ran nitrous in it, and after a year and about thirty bottles of nitrous, it blew a head gasket.

I wasn't impressed with the mechanic who did all of the follow up work on it. To start with, he installed a bad used fuel pump, and it took about two weeks for them to get around to checking the fuel pressure. That's not a good way to run a nitrous engine. When they took the engine apart recently, this person suggested that it had the wrong intake gaskets, and that they caused a water leak, and the blown head gasket.

The best advice I can give, is to ask for the tech advice from the manufacturers, or quality builders, and find yourself an expert mechanic. The reliability of any vehicle is more dependant on the mechanic, than the manufacturer of the vehicle.
Best of luck,
DonW
 






I thought the Explorer cam was about the same as the older HO cams. I have heard from a couple of PCM tuners that it evidently has a lot to be desired. I'd love to know what could be gained with a cam with intake @.050 duration around 215, with over 220 exhaust duration.
I'm planning for a supercharger, so a cam swap isn't for me right now.
 






Do we have 1.6 RR in our explorers already? what would be the point if switching? I guess the best thing would be to spend the money on a flash program? (bama chips.com)? Over a e303 cam and 1.6 RR
 






We have stamped steel rockers stock. The aluminum roller rockers reduce friction, oil temps, and valve stem and valve guide wear. Supposedly they'll make 10-15 more hp. Well worth it I might add.

In my opinion I'd wait to get a chip until you install something that needs it. That is, if you plan on doing a cam in the future, wait till it's in, that way you won't need it burnt again.
 






Roller rockers are very nice, but they actually only add a few horsepower, and those are only at high RPM. They're a good idea if you are building an engine, or rebuilding a head. Also, if everything else has been done, then that would be a last thing to do.

I agree with section, either get just a chip/flasher, or make some other big changes, and then get a chip/flasher.

A good source to browse for available cams, and cam companies, would be a MM&FF magazine. Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords is full of adds that can lead you to some good choices. Just remember that you need power in a lower RPM range then Mustangs. Good luck,
DonW
 






CDW6212R said:
Good advice James. The RPM band is the real magic in selecting parts. 4500+ pound Explorers don't need more power at 6000 RPM, they need it at 2000-5000 RPM.

Make changes to make the engine as efficient, and strong, as possible in the stock RPM band. Then add cubic inches, NOS, or supercharging.

The factory OBDII operating system, and intake manifold, are the best parts of the engine. Improve the rest, and enjoy.
Don W

I was doing some checking and the Mustangs Cobra's are 3200 lbs the explorers are 3800 lbs. So there is only a 500 lbs difference.

My original thought was to increase power across the whole band.
 






Check the Explorer weight again. My 91 Explorer 4x4 weighed 4700 pounds. The Sports and 2WD's will weigh slightly less. The V8's will weigh a hair more. LOL,
DonW
 






CDW6212R said:
Check the Explorer weight again. My 91 Explorer 4x4 weighed 4700 pounds. The Sports and 2WD's will weigh slightly less. The V8's will weigh a hair more. LOL,
DonW

This is a 2000 AWD fully loaded. I would imagine that the weight would be less for the 2WD

Model tested (MSRP): XLT AWD ($29,900)
Standard equipment: (XLT AWD) V8, anti-lock brakes, power steering, air conditioning, AM/FM/single CD, power windows, mirrors and locks, keyless entry pad, cruise control, speed-sensitive intermittent wiper, floor mats with reversible cargo mat, sport cloth front bucket seats w/power driver 6-way, black leather-wrapped tilt wheel, floor console w/rear radio and rear heater/AC controls, fog lamps, liftgate with flip-open rear window, luggage rack, aluminum wheels, rear wiper/washer and defroster, cargo cover, privacy glass, 60/40 split-folding rear seat
Options as tested: Towing package (wiring harness, heavy duty flasher, limited slip rear differential), ($355)
Destination charge: 550
Gas Guzzler Tax: N/A
Layout: front-engine, all-wheel drive
Engine (Optional): 160-hp 4.0-liter ohv V6; 210-hp 4.0-liter sohc 12v V6; 215-hp 5.0-liter ohv 16v V8
Horsepower (hp @ rpm): 215 @ 4200
Torque(lb.-ft. @ rpm): 288 @ 3300
EPA fuel economy, city/hwy: 14/20 mpg
Transmission (Optional): 5-speed manual, 5-speed automatic, 4-speed automatic
Wheelbase: 111.6 in.
Length/width/height: 190.7/70.2/67.5 in.
Track, f/r: 58.5/58.5 in.
Turning circle: 37.3 ft.
Seating capacity: 5
Head/hip/leg room, f: 39.9/51.9/42.4 in.
Head/hip/leg room, r: 39.9/51.9/36.8 in.
Cargo volume: 79.8 cu. ft.
Payload N/A
Suspension F: Independent
Suspension R: live axle
Ground Clearance: N/A
Curb weight: 3875 Lbs.
Towing capacity: 5620 Lbs.
Tires: P235/75R15
Brakes, f/r: disc/disc w ABS
Fuel capacity: 21.0 gal.

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I am 99% sure that my 98 AWD V8 Mountaineer is not 900 pounds lighter than my 91 Explorer was. I got the 4700 pound mark from a scale when I went to a local scrap yard.

Someone else should comment here about the weight. I doubt that the literature that you have read is accurate. I doubt that there are any SUV's which weigh less than 4000 pounds. You would be better served to believe what myself and others here suggest is the actual weight of the Explorers.
Regards,
DonW
 






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