Eddie Bauer Rough Idling

[Edward K]

Eddie Bauer Rough Idling (Fixed)

Well, I've had this problem for a while now, and I've searched the forums multiple times and at this point I'm completely stumped.

Occasionally after the car had been running(so on warm starts) I crank up the engine and it sputters, idling at maybe 3-400 rpm. Sometimes it dies, sometimes it doesn't. If you give it gas the rpms climb like they should but when you let it off it goes back to idling low. The second you put it in drive or reverse though it's perfectly happy though, back up to +800rpm. I've pulled codes off of it and all I got was a 332 code.(EGR failing to open completely I believe)

Thus far I've replaced the EGR (After which I had a ton more power in the engine, but still had the rough idling problem on occasion), I've changed all the plugs and wires, cleaned the air filter, checked the vacuum lines for cracks, I very recently had to replace the fuel pump and filter so those are both good.

Any input you guys have would be appreciated, the vehicle is drivable but I'd hate for me mum to get stranded somewhere on a random whim.

 

[Banjoes]

Have you tried cleaning your MAF sensor, I've heard that if it's dirty, it can cause problems with rough idle. Use this to clean it. And the electrical harness/plug too(and probably best to go ahead and install a new air filter after cleaning it, try not to get a cheap air filter invest a few dollars more and get a better one.)

 

[Edward K]

Have you tried cleaning your MAF sensor, I've heard that if it's dirty, it can cause problems with rough idle. Use this to clean it. And the electrical harness/plug too(and probably best to go ahead and install a new air filter after cleaning it, try not to get a cheap air filter invest a few dollars more and get a better one.)

Okay, thank you. I'll give that a shot as soon as I can get my hands on that cleaner.

As for a filter I have an aftermarket K&N Racing filter in it. That got cleaned last week.

 

[Banjoes]

One other thing to check is to make sure you have no exhaust system leaks anywhere as this can affect O2 sensor readings causing an improper air/fuel ratio, which can cause rough idling.

 

[PJCanadaXLT]

mine had that similar problem and i replaced the O-ring gasket in between the upper and lower intake manifold. it may smashed like mine. $11 at the dealership

 

[jremington59]

I'd be checking the Idle Air Control Valve.

 

[swshawaii]

I'd be checking the Idle Air Control Valve.

Ditto. In addition to the IAC and MAF, clean the throttle body.

 

[coolhandguenz61]

Crankshaft position sensor

You should check the crankshaft position sensor and disconnect and reconnect the contacts and clean it with some electronic/contact cleaner. I had a rough idle and I saw on a thread here to check that and it worked like a charm.

 

[rickybobby]

Okay, thank you. I'll give that a shot as soon as I can get my hands on that cleaner.

As for a filter I have an aftermarket K&N Racing filter in it. That got cleaned last week.

Step one is to ditch the oiled filter, these tend to wreak havoc on a MAF over time and you dont really gain any measurable power or economy over a standard paper element filter.

 

[Edward K]

Step one is to ditch the oiled filter, these tend to wreak havoc on a MAF over time and you dont really gain any measurable power or economy over a standard paper element filter.

Hmm, really? I'd would've never guessed, how sensitive are the MAF sensors on these vehicles? I've used filters like these for years in all of my other vehicles. Could I not upgrade the MAF to something suitable for the rest of the intake system? But I will keep this in mind if I run across an explorer at the local scrap yards.

In the mean time, I've cleaned all the above mentioned parts and she seems to be running fine for now. So we'll see how she does over the next few days.

 

[Edward K]

Also thanks for all your input guys, I'm running down the list one by one to see what works!

 

[swshawaii]

Hmm, really? I'd would've never guessed, how sensitive are the MAF sensors on these vehicles? I've used filters like these for years in all of my other vehicles. Could I not upgrade the MAF to something suitable for the rest of the intake system? But I will keep this in mind if I run across an explorer at the local scrap yards.

K & N's recommended 50,000 mile cleaning interval. (#4)

http://www.knfilters.com/faq.htm#4

http://www.knfilters.com/cleaning.htm

 

[Edward K]

K & N's recommended 50,000 mile cleaning interval. (#4)

I've one upped 'em by cleaning every twenty or so. We got some dirty air around here. Nah, not really it's more of a habit, when the oil gets changed the filter gets cleaned just so I don't have to keep up with when everything needs to be done.

Also as a random note I think it was the MAF sensors, she's running beautifully and hasn't given me any problems thus far.

Thanks guys!

 

[jremington59]

If the MAF was malfunctioning it should have thrown a code. Next time remove the IAC valve and clean it good and see if that helps.

 

[Edward K]

If the MAF was malfunctioning it should have thrown a code. Next time remove the IAC valve and clean it good and see if that helps.

Ah! Thank you for that Jremington59, it just started making a loud humming noise after I cleaned the MAF. (No problems idling thus far.) I'dve never thought to clean the IAC valve for that. (I googled it and found that a dirty IAC valve makes a vacuum cleaner sound.) Pulled it (really easy) and cleaned it, I'll be back out on the road tomorrow so we'll see what she does. Again, thank you!


As another note though, I cleared out the codes again, and five minutes down the road it popped a CEL on me. Pulled the codes again, and I still have a 332 code. Do you think cleaning the IAC could fix that?

 

[jremington59]

Are you sure you have the right code? P0332 is the knock sensor on bank 2.

 

[Edward K]

There's no 'PO' in front of it. (I believe you have a OBD-II Correct?) I just have a 332 from an EEC-IV system. (I don't have any readers just a light and a piece of wire.) And yes I'm sure the 332 is the correct code as I've pulled it multiple times. What I was looking at said the 332 was an EGR valve problem. As stated, I've since replaced the valve.

Also as another note cleaning the IAC gave me more get-up-and go, but it still hums.

At this point I am sooo confused.

 

[jremington59]

I should have read closer. It is for the egr.

Have you checked the vac lines and the cannister? You also want to make sure the IAC valve is clean and dry before reinstalling. That most likely was your idling problem.

 

[Edward K]

S'all right by me.

I did check the vacuum lines, but not the canister... At the risk of sounding like a moron Imma have to ask though. What canister?
As for the IAC, I left it out in the sun to dry for about thirty minutes after spraying it down with contact cleaner. I think that was enough to dry it out in hundred degree weather. But I could be wrong. I'll try cleaning it one more time and leave it overnight this time. (Also gonna make sure to plug up the holes in the manifold when I do. It'd be just my luck a small furry rodent would find it's way in there.)

Once again thanks for all your help. I appreciate it.

 

[jremington59]

I filled mine with PB Blaster, let it sit for a couple hours and then poured it out and wiped it out good.

The canister may be inside the grill, underneath on the passenger side. If you could, leave the rubber hose attached to the EGr valve, remove the end from the solonoid and draw softly into it with your engine idling. If the EGR valve is working correctly the engine will sputter. That will at least tell you if the valves working correctly.