EEC circuit relay prob.

[CrazeX]

I have a battery drain problem, goes dead within two days or less. I have run the good old pull the fuses one by one while checking for amperage, and also ran a VOM between negative cable and battery negative post. I get normal voltage reading everywhere except on thee EEC feed at the power distribution block under hood. It shows about a 1amp draw at all times. Has anyone had this problem?

 

[410Fortune]

The EEC is sucking power at all times?

I dont know if this is normal, but check the other side of the relay, the side that feeds the computer itself........

 

[CrazeX]

I was listening to it today and I noticed that when I turn the ignition off the fuel pump charges the lines and then I hear a relay click twice. I think it may be the same relay. Is it possible that the fuel pump relay is being energized as soon as it is being de-energized? If so where is it? (the relay) on a 1991 4.0L

 

[Opera House]

If I remember

The ignition switch feeds the coil of the EEC relay. So a bad keyswitch is the only thing that can cause the relay to activate. With the engine off, remove the relay and see if there is power on the coil contacts. One amp seems about right for an EEC with the engine not running. Does the battery light come on?

 

[CrazeX]

Battery light only comes on when the ignition switch is in the on position. I am sure that the switch has either been tampered with or changed because when I got the X a week ago I noticed the door key and ignition key were different. Since I have you here, Where is the chime alarm box on this thing? I want to put one back in it or repair the original but can't seem to find it in the Haynes. Is it the connector at the top of carpet edge in the center hump under the dash?

 

[RiverRat]

A couple of general things to check when looking for a current draw can also be the fuel pump relay or the voltage regulator.

 

[CrazeX]

Thanks river rat. now the thing is, the fuel pump relay is the connector that is green? And where might the regulator be? I will still pull the ignition connector to see if the draw drops.

 

[Opera House]

The regulator is internal to the alternator

Besides the heavy wire that is connected directly to the battery, there is a wire on the connector for regulator power that connects to a 15A fuse that has power all the time. The regulator turns on when power is applied to the line that has the dash battery light. This is why the lamp has a resistor wired across it, so it keeps charging even if the lamp burns out. A nifty dual function circuit. Pulling the connector on the back of the alternator will disable regulator current draw.

 

[CrazeX]

Thanks Opera House and RiverRat. I finally think I got it. I pulled up the holder for Distribution and then got the relay holder out. While I was pulling up the relay holder the fuel pump kept going on and off, I removed the fuel pump relay and greased it real good, put it back together, now the relay turns on with the ignition and I don't get a pulse when I turn the ignition off. When I get my amprobe on it I bet the 1amp draw will be gone too. AGAIN THANKS ABUNCH. coudn't a done it with out you.