EGR system check

[cmyvest]

Have a question about testing the EGR valve on a '94 Sport. Has 142K on it and just recently the check engine light has started coming on after 10 minutes or so starting cold. I ran codes on it and have come up with 332 on the KeyOn/Eng.Off test in continuos memory mode. I also obtained 332 during the Eng. Running test in cont. mem. mode. This apparently indicates that "EGR valve opening not detected". I went through the codes twice and came up with the same result again. It doesn't seem to be running any rougher than normal, and only exhibits some slight valve train clatter upon hard acceleration. I've put over 100K on since I bought it used and other than a couple of tune ups, a new clutch, and the usual wear and tear stuff, I've never had a problem with the engine. If some one knows how I should go about testing the valve or whether or not I should waste my time and just put in a new one, I'd sure appreciate the advice.

 

[tshaner]

This may not be any help, but at least your not alone!
I am having the same problem!
I've replaced the EGR valve (was getting a different code and THAT is gone at least) and also replace the DPFE sensor and vacuum lines. Still getting the darn check engine light, code 332. No symptoms, same as you. The code points to either the DPFE (PFE) or EVR as far as I can tell. I've also heard a bad O2 sensor could cause this. It's a real bugger to figure out. If you manage it, please share with a fellow sufferer (I will do likewise...)

94 Explorer Limited
91K miles
KKM True-Rev
NEW lower intake gasket
NEW water pump
NEW radial arm bushings
NEW front & rear brakes
NEW egr & dpfe
Bosh +4 plugs and Bosch wires

 

[Jason_25]

The bad 02 sensor on the driver's side can definitely cause the problem. It happened to me.

 

[tshaner]

Any way to test the O2 sensor? I would have thought it would throw a code if it was bad...

 

[Jason_25]

As for as I know there is no way to test them and no, sometimes they don't throw a code.

 

[tshaner]

That's what I figured.. Since I've replaced the DPFE, EGR valve, etc. might as well go for the O2 sensor. Where is the one you are taking about located?

 

[Jason_25]

On mine it's near the left side of the tranny. It's preety easy to get to. Probably a 10 minute job. Hardest part is plugging up the connector on top of the tranny.

 

[Luv2explorer]

I had the same problem. I replaced the EGR valve AND the fuel filter, and I havent had the problem since. Hope this helps.

 

[dec322]

My Engine light came on before and I took it to the dealership. They replaced MAF and a few sensors (550 dollars). Two month later it came on again. I can't check codes so this might not help. But I bought some GUMOUT throttle body cleaner and used the whole can. It hasn't happened since (3 or 4 months ago).

 

[tshaner]

Fixed my code 332 Check Engine Light! Was not O2 sensor, or any other component! Here is the rundown of how I diganosed it.

1) Warmed engine (ran at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes) and Check Engine light (code 332) came on as expected

2) Connected vacuum gauge bewteen EVR and EGR and reved engine. Gauge showed increased vacuum as RPM increased with warm engine. Hence - EVR and related controls OK.

3) Hooked vacuum pump to EGR and applied vacuum.
Engine began to stall and valve opened & closed. Hence - EGR Valve OK

4) Tested output voltage of DPFE while did #3 above. Votage increased when EGR was open, but not as much as expected. At this point, you could suspect the DPFE but carbon buildup could also cause a restricted flow.

5) Pulled thottle body & checked EGR passage in upper intake. Air could get through, but it WAS restriced and noticable carbon buildup was present

6) Cleand throttle body while it was off and removed all carbon buildup from EGR passage. I ran an old motorcycle brake cable (just the inner cable) through the passage (the end of the cable frays a little, the other end connected to a drill, works like a mini wire brush) and cleaned the passage from the EGR valve to the other end. I used a small hooked tool to reach the opening inside the intake and cleaned all the carbon there as well. I then blew compressed air through the passage and cleaned out all the resulting debris.

7) Put the EGR valve back on, with new gasket, put the throttle body back on and all assocatiaed parts.

8) The battery was disconnected throughout the cleaning process, so the computer was reset & codes cleared. After all was back together it was time for a test drive.

9) Drove 50 miles or so, NO codes! The Check Engine light always came on within a few minutes. I'm sure it's fixed..

Moral: Check the simple things first. Carbon buildup will certainly cause the problem, but it was not easily seen. The process I used was able to pinpoint the problem.

Hope this helps anyone else with this annoying problem.
Email if you need more details. I've been fighting a lower intake leak and this 332 problem for two weeks.
Everything is now fixed, no 332 codes and no leaks.
(lower intake gasket replacement: I can do the entire job in 3 hours now..)

 

[Fordman6996]

Hiya fellas,
was reading your posts and I have the same problem! its driving me nuts, I keep getting a code 332 EGR Valve Not Opening(EVP/PFE/DPFE). me and my dad did some work to my X I had to replace the CAMP solenoid so I had pulled off my Air plenum I never removed the EGR off the plenum or the IAC or IAT and I cleaned the inside of it with some air intake cleaner I blew it out with compressed air so it was dry put it all together, changed plugs cause routine maintence with motorcraft double platium plugs and then I had a check engine light well the next week it ran like crap got it to my friend that has a scan tool and 4 out of the 6 plugs were burnt off. no electrode no nothing ! I was so upset those plugs aren't cheap! so I had a code for a HO2S going bad and that code 332, I replaced the plugs with bosch platiums and put a new O2 sensor on and still engine light tested the EGR and that seemed to be sticking, So I replaced that, still a check engine light, well then I checked the EVR sensor well that seemed to be working but I checked the filter on it and it was dirty so I replaced that, still CEL ! now my last resort was the DPFE sensor put that on checked the hoses to that they seem good, drove it down the high way and yet still the light comes on! I have good vaccum I don't know what the heck would be causing it! I'll check the port to see if its pluged up. Pray for me fellas!