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Electrical Issue

2ndcovenant

Member
Joined
March 20, 2015
Messages
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2002ExplXLT 4x4 4.0L 6cyl
Hi Folks,

My 2002 explorer 4x4 xlt worked fine to get me to the gym Saturday night but as I tried to leave, the Theft light came on and the engine would not crank. Eventually I got it to crank, after disconnecting the battery on three different tries and finally lowering the steeling wheel.

Since then, I could drive it a few different places and each time, as I would try to leave each place, the same thing would happen. Theft light and wouldn't crank.

Last night, I went to a store and finally it would not crank back up no matter what I did so I walked home.

Today I got a tow truck driver to take a look at it with me. We found a couple of things. First: the posts on my battery were not thick enough for the clamps to get a solid hold on them even when tightened as much as the clamps could tighten, both negative and positive. I have purchased three clamps for this battery since June and two cracked all the way through as I tried to tighten them enough... neither tightened enough. The third and current clamp is a marine battery clamp which got as tight as possible (not tight enough it seems).

The driver said that the wiring from the negative cable was coming out from the clamp and since the clamp wasn't tight enough to begin with, the battery was not feeding all of the needed electrical components. We put all of the wiring back into the clamp and tried to start it but the starter was trying to work, we could hear it clicking, and the fan belt and the radiator fan both started to move a bit but then,... in the fuse box, I hear a loud rapid fire clicking below Fuses 51 and 52. When I touch the two fuses, I can feel a mechanical clicking below Fuse 51.

When the driver and I tried to turn on the truck after leaving the battery disconnected for 15 minutes, strangely enough, the theft light did not go off any more than it should when it is Not in Theft mode and when I put the key into run and start, the gauges and lights started moving and lighting up quickly and erratically but the theft light stayed working as it should under normal circumstances. When I took the key out of the ignition, the theft light stayed working correctly under normal circumstances... the theft light did not go into Theft mode, and therefore did not think that the truck was being stolen.

I don't know what is going on. I can't tell whether it's a wiring, fuse, or theft problem. Any ideas? Also, I called the Ford dealership and was told that their programming computers only go back to 2008, so they can't help if its a key or ignition antenna that needs replacing.
 






Pop in a new battery and have a professional install proper crimp on terminals (not that bolt down junk) unless you want to buy your own crimping tool (http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html).

The only two batteries I would use:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOT2/BXT65850/03321.oap

You can actually find that Motorcraft BXT65-850 cheaper at Ford dealers most of the time.

or upgrade to a AGM battery: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...ry/duralast-platinum-battery/319465_929779_0/
 






A non-start issue as well as a non-run may originate simply at the battery connections. Poor connections exhibiting high resistance may often revert back to undetectable bad connections when high current demand (such as the starter) are gone. What this means is that unusual or unacceptable electrical conditions detected by the computer (PCM), may in reality be false.

Keep the battery posts clean, shiny bright. To see that, the cables with their te5rminals must be removed. Clean the posts if not shiny clean using strips of abrasive cloth, or even scraping them from bottom upwards with a drywall knife. Don't remove much metal! Coat the terminals and their juncture from within the battery case with grease: Vaseline is good. Clean the inside diameter of the cable terminals, looking for discoloration, brown or frothy build up is BAD. Terminals may be cleaned using a rat-tail file. Wire-brush tools are available which clean the battery post as well as the ID of the terminals. They are effective. Battery connections carefully kept clean are a big step toward avoiding the heartbreak of failure. imp
 






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