Electrical Problem

[Sobus]

Hey everyone,
I am having a problem with my charging system. The alternator is not charging my battery or running the vehicle. If I do a fresh charge on the battery the vehicle runs for a bit, then dies due to a dead battery.

I have replaced the alternator, tested the battery, and replaced the ignition switch.

I did some research and my battery indicator light is working and does come on. I tested ALL the lights and they work except the speed control light. Fuse 15 is intact and seated tightly.

I have run out of ideas.
I am getting over 1V to the "I" connector on the alternator.
I have a good connection from alternator B+ to the Battery +.

Anyone have any idea's on what it could be?

 

[yavapaires]

Hey everyone,
I am having a problem with my charging system. The alternator is not charging my battery or running the vehicle. If I do a fresh charge on the battery the vehicle runs for a bit, then dies due to a dead battery.

I have replaced the alternator, tested the battery, and replaced the ignition switch.

I did some research and my battery indicator light is working and does come on. I tested ALL the lights and they work except the speed control light. Fuse 15 is intact and seated tightly.

I have run out of ideas.
I am getting over 1V to the "I" connector on the alternator.
I have a good connection from alternator B+ to the Battery +.

Anyone have any idea's on what it could be?

I assume you have cleaned the battery cables. Cut the insulation back about an inch or so and check for corrosion on each cable.

 

[budwich]

schematics show a couple of fuses in the battery junction box for the alternator system... none of them being 15a?... 30 for the "A" side "activities" (causes charging) and 50 for "other".

 

[NICE59FORDF100]

theres also a fusible link in the BK/OG wire (or Y/WH / BR wire depending on production date) that might be blown. it is the wire coming off the B+ and A connections on the alternator to the battery. there are minimum two in the system

 

[jremington59]

Have you tested the voltage at the battery terminals with it running?

 

[Sobus]

I assume you have cleaned the battery cables. Cut the insulation back about an inch or so and check for corrosion on each cable.

Cleaned, terminals and connectors. Actually replaced the connectors because they were looking bad.

schematics show a couple of fuses in the battery junction box for the alternator system... none of them being 15a?... 30 for the "A" side "activities" (causes charging) and 50 for "other".

Every schematic I have seen, shows fuse numbers that the vehicle doesn't use. No fuse is blown in the power distribution box. Fuse-able Links test good as well.( They are the square long fuses in the Power Dist. Box? )

theres also a fusible link in the BK/OG wire (or Y/WH / BR wire depending on production date) that might be blown. it is the wire coming off the B+ and A connections on the alternator to the battery. there are minimum two in the system

I have traced the Y/WH to a connector that is sitting on the right side of the engine. Y/WH wire continues from there and I cant find were it goes. But I did a continuity test to that point and it passed. I pulled my Power Dist. Box, but it does not have a Y/WH wire going into it that I was able to see. Also looked to see if there was a mega fuse but it seems I don't have one, not in the normal place anyway.

Have you tested the voltage at the battery terminals with it running?

I tested befor turning on, was 12.6V unfortunately my multimeter is crapping out now so I need to get a new one to find that out. I get very low readings on the multimeter now as I tested it against a battery tester at Canadian Tire, and another multimeter.

My "I' connector gets power.

I will get a new multimeter and test again while running. Seems it is only off with voltage testing.

I think the problem is getting the alternator to "excite".

I tried continuity tests from "A" to every fuse connection and I was unable to find where it is hooked up. So there is really only 2 feet of cable from the last good tested continuity.

Is the schematics for a Explorer in Canada different than US?

 

[budwich]

OK... but then to get on the "right page" for everyone, perhaps you can tell us the number of the fuse that you are checking. Also do you have the owners manual for the vehicle? lastly, how are you checking your fuses... hopefully not by looking at them... :-(

 

[Sobus]

OK... but then to get on the "right page" for everyone, perhaps you can tell us the number of the fuse that you are checking. Also do you have the owners manual for the vehicle? lastly, how are you checking your fuses... hopefully not by looking at them... :-(

Sure.
I was looking for fuse 14(30A) and 5(50A). Neither exist in my system.

I do have the owners manual. It doesn't show a fuse for 14 or 5 either, and nothing shows ALT SYS fuse.

I used my multimeter to test for continuity on all the fuses in the Power Dist Box. They all passed.

 

[jremington59]

If you've got 12.6 volts at your battery I don't see a charging problem. That's a fully charged battery.

 

[budwich]

Thanks for the info... sorry I mis-read your "15" as a 15 amp fuse as oppose to position 15. Interesting.... I didn't think there was wiring differences across NA vehicles in terms of blocks, etc... just whether an option exists or doesn't.

Are you saying your fuse block doesn't look like any of those shown in various references (including this forum site) or that you have no fuse in those locations? ...hmmmm there has to be a terminating point somewhere as there is NO direct connection of the alternator to battery... in the older system, it was done towards the starter (and associated hardware / relays)... in the newer ones, as pictured / referenced.

 

[Sobus]

If you've got 12.6 volts at your battery I don't see a charging problem. That's a fully charged battery.

It starts off that way until I run it and the battery drains without the alternator charging.

Thanks for the info... sorry I mis-read your "15" as a 15 amp fuse as oppose to position 15. Interesting.... I didn't think there was wiring differences across NA vehicles in terms of blocks, etc... just whether an option exists or doesn't.

Are you saying your fuse block doesn't look like any of those shown in various references (including this forum site) or that you have no fuse in those locations? ...hmmmm there has to be a terminating point somewhere as there is NO direct connection of the alternator to battery... in the older system, it was done towards the starter (and associated hardware / relays)... in the newer ones, as pictured / referenced.

Maybe the Y/WH wire runs down to the starter?

I had the 2001 Charging System Diagram and a picture of the Power Dist Box from another post. The picture showed where the mega fuse (175A) was on the side of the box. My PDB has a "hot" connection to the front(towards bumper) of the box with no fuse on it.

I will trace to the starter after work and take a picture of the PDB for reference.

 

[budwich]

picture would probably be great to work thru this (or if a 2001 owner has some ideas / comments). I guess another question is "are you the original owner or did you buy this used?

this is one of the many that I have seen (which all agree).... http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180814

 

[Sobus]

I bought this vehicle used. One other owner.

The fuse box in that link is nothing at all like mine. I'm thinking that production in Canada was a little different. (I think we have or had a Ford factory here)

I was able to find an online manual for my vehicle. Dead Link Removed

That is what my PDB is like.

My PDB Schematic

Mine is very similar to this one, just with a couple extra fuses some areas, and less in others.Picture of another.

Definitely different than the ones I found on this site.

 

[budwich]

OK... went to another site that has a better "view" of the circuit. Both circuit (a and b) off the generator go thru fuse links to the pd box where they "meet" with the red wire from the battery / starter which doesn't travel into the box (for this circuit) but probably somewhere outside / beneath. There are three fuselinks involved.... one for the B (gray), one for the A (gray) and another (thinner ... brown) for the A. Not sure if the "gray fuse" is two separate links or one that feeds the B link and also the A sub "fuse link".

I hate fuse links... :-( you are going to have find the ends at the alternator and the battery junction box (pd box) and check resistance / continuity and go from there.

Of course, your problem with meter dying on the voltage side isn't going to help.

It would appear that you have lost a fuse link especially IF you aren't seeing any ~12v at either a or b sides at the alternator.

PS. Your battery junction box looks like my 96 power distribution box so if would appear that there are differences across NA assuming you can believe some of the sites visited.

 

[Sobus]

OK... went to another site that has a better "view" of the circuit. Both circuit (a and b) off the generator go thru fuse links to the pd box where they "meet" with the red wire from the battery / starter which doesn't travel into the box (for this circuit) but probably somewhere outside / beneath. There are three fuselinks involved.... one for the B (gray), one for the A (gray) and another (thinner ... brown) for the A. Not sure if the "gray fuse" is two separate links or one that feeds the B link and also the A sub "fuse link".

So they go through a fuse link BEFORE the PD Box?
I wasn't able to see that but maybe it is heavily covered with shielding.

I'm going to stop on my way home and pick up a new multimeter.

Do you have a reference to that site so I can take a look as well?
Also, am I wrong when we talk about fuse links? They are the square long ones in the PD box, or are they "inline" fuses running with all the other cables?

 

[budwich]

check this thread for a site

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=343484&highlight=bobflood

fuselinks are typically wire looking as in you can't tell the difference between them and a normal wire depending on who makes them. They are "in-line" and most of the time "connectored" (could be bullet type) so they can be replaced. I would check near / around the box area for a color change / connector.

 

[Sobus]

Ok, so I traced the wires some more and tested each fuse link.
All the fuse links tested good.

So I tried to see where exactly it was failing.
Traced to a junction box that was close and found that somewhere between the fuse link and the junction continuity was failing. So I took ALL the clips off and started pulling the lines.

Well, I found the wire on the bottom of the group exposed to air. Seems to have been cut at some point. When I pulled it up, all the white corroded powder that use to be wire came out. Tested the cut for continuity to the battery terminal and got that. ( Kinda redundant but wanted to make sure that was the exact area affected)

I will take a picture of it when I go to fix it as I don't have time to fix it tonight.

I was fully hidden under all other wires. Very tight space to get it out as well.

Thanks for all you help!
Just got the Explorer a couple months ago, had it parked while we sold the other vehicle. I will be frequenting the forums for sure as I like to learn and do things myself!

I will post my outcome and pictures as they come as well.

 

[Beanfighter]

Did it fix??
Having the same problem on a 2000' XLT. Replaced the Alternator and battery, the battery light remains on after the engine is started. Strangely.. the battery light goes out when the park lights are turned on.

 

[Sobus]

Fixed it right up.

Took a bit to find it, but I highly suggest checking all wires at the alternator for continuity. Could save you a lot more time.

If you have any more questions, let me know.