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Emergency 12V welder

rookieshooter

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I saw a magazine article that showed someone doing some emergency welding using their 12v battery as a welder. I'm wondering has anyone here done this and just what do you need as far as stinger end and ground?
If I remember they used a set of jumper cables which I carry. Then all I would have to do is throw some welding rods in the truck.

I'm in the process of installing a remote 12V set of terminals and just thought that it may be worth the while to rig up something. Unless it's just a waste of time as far as the welding part is concerned.
I would think that if it did work that it would just be for tacking something like a tail pipe hanger :rolleyes:

DSC03439.jpg
 



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- Not sure jumper cables would be the best option since the amperage flowing through the circuit for stick welding will be much higher than the amperage for jump starting a battery - just get a used stick welder torch since they're pretty cheap and change the ends to whatever plug you are using.

- You might need to turn off the vehicle and isolate the battery from the rest of the vehicle's electronics (ECU, etc..) or else those systems will be subjected to electrical surges and spikes.
 






I saw something about a 12V welder on extreme 4x4 this weekend. They are putting one in their IH Scout project. I'm sure it is pretty expensive, but it was a neat tool for emergency welding.
 






Yea somehow isolate your battery from all electronics, sounds like it would be a fun project
 






You could get your supplies in a welding shop (# 2 or thicker flexible cable, rod holder, large alligator clamps, etc). A truck booster pack might be a better option than connecting to the vehicle's battery. You wouldn't have to worry about voltage spikes or a dead battery.
 






I saw something about a 12V welder on extreme 4x4 this weekend. They are putting one in their IH Scout project. I'm sure it is pretty expensive, but it was a neat tool for emergency welding.

http://www.readywelder.com/

Old member of the board Jefe had a Readywelder and seemed to work pretty good.




Here's an underhood welder:
http://www.premierpowerwelder.com/


I've heard of people using batteries and coat hanger to weld.

Here's a junkyard welder using an alternator:
http://www.huv.com/jon/jeep/Welder/portable-welder.html
 






If you're gonna weld with your batteries, you need at least 2 if not 3 to get any penetration. They drain fast, but can get you out of a bind. Trying it with just one 12Volt would be pretty useless.


Here is the info on the Ready Welder that Xtreme 4x4 talked about.
Description:

The Ready Welder II Model #10000 is cabled best for battery operation. This model will also connect to all CV (constant voltage) and DC (direct current) output machines. This model is most frequently used by repairmen, maintenance workers, 4X4 off-road enthusiasts, ranchers, boaters, agricultural industry and anyone primarily using batteries as the power source.

The ground cable is attached to the red dual quick disconnect connectors. This makes welding jobs in remote locations easy, portable and quick. This model will run off any 18, 24 & 36 volt batteries in a parallel series depending on the application and material to be welded. The Model #10000 has a one year 100% parts and labor limited factory warranty.

Model 10000 Features:

Welds Steel,Stainless and Aluminum or Any Metals Where Standard One or Two Pound Spools are Available
Connects to Batteries
18 Volts can do Thin Sheet Metal
24 Volts will Single Pass 1/2" @ 275 amp
36 Volts will Weld up to 3/4" @ 350 to 400 amp
Welds 22 Gauge to 3/4"
Connects to MIG/Constant Voltage Output Welders
Uses Wire Sizes from .023 to .040 without changing rollers.
Uses Heavy-Duty TWECO Quality Front End Consumables
Wire Speeds of 50 Inches to 900 Inches per Minute
Polarity Indicator Lights
Ten Foot Cable with Quick Disconnects, Can be
Extended to 80 Feet
Built-in Gas Valve
Ground Cable Attached
Ready Welder II Case Includes:

-RWII High-Impact MIG Gun
-Ten Feet of Cable
-One Spool of Flux Core Wire
-300 Amp Ground Clamp
-Two Battery Clamps
-Extra Tips and Gas Hose Fitting
-Ten Extra Feet of Gas Hose
-Foam Lined Blow-Molded Tough Briefcase

Optional Cold Switch Upgrade:

The Cold Switch solenoid system is contained in a softball sized box that is integrated near the end of the Ready Welder II's cable and adds approximately 3' to the overall cable length. This system is designed to protect the operator from accidentally striking an arc without the trigger pulled. The solenoid is deactivated when you release the trigger, allowing you to lay the welder down or to avoid arcing out your grounded surfaces without any worries. This feature was manufactured with safety in mind.
 






Here's the GoWeld portable welder with adjustable wire speed and voltage and 50% duty cycle...better than my little Lincoln welder @ 30% duty cycle.

http://www.goweld.com/prodinfo.html
 






I have a Ready Welder and like it. It has been used a few times on the trail. 1 time to weld a front spring hanger back on, another to weld up a hole in a diff cover and another to weld a socket to a spindle nut in order to remove it since the owner wasnt carrying the correct size.

Before I always carried jumper cables and a few welding rods just incase. Something is better than nothing. Dont forget your JB weld ("Waterweld") either, it fixes holes in oil pans really good!
 






Ive welded with 2 car batteries and it works pretty good. You just have to compensate for the lack of heat adjustment.

You need a really good set of jumper cables, not the el-cheapo 8 gauge crap. You also need to build a short single cable. Hook the jumper cables up + on one battery, - on the other battery. Then run the single cable from the + to the - post that you have left over.

Keep some 6010 rods for the thick stuff, 6013 for 1/8". This will help make up for the fact that you cant turn the amps up or down.

It aint pretty, but it works. Also make sure both batteries are completely disconnected from vehicle while welding.
 






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