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Engine Oil

At about 105,000 miles the my Subaru Legacy started to have a problem with a valve sticking. I had used dino oil and changed it every 3-5k along with a filter. I did a engine flush ( after 8 minutes with the flush the valves were no longer sticking ) and switched to Amsoil 15w-40 synthetic. It never leaked up to 125,000 miles at which time I traded it for my explorer. I am sold on the synthetics and use Amsoil or Mobil 1 5w-30 depending on availability at the time I need to change. I think they both are good.

Alan
 



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Ya know, I saw some stuff on the web about Amsoil, and ordered their literature. I saw the earlier post on this thread from the guy claiming that it was the best. As far as I can remember, its really expensive, and sold only thru local dealers (like the Avon lady). Is it's cost warrented? Is there a cheaper way to get it? What about that Purple stuff? Any one out there wanna start a post about these oils? Is there one out there already? I use the sale Synth at the time so far Quaker State's 4x4 5-50 synth, Castrol Syntech 5-50. Mobil-1 never seems to be on sale or less costly than these 2 where I am, 'cept at Costco which only stocks 10w30 (I'm kinda used to the 5-50's but I'd try those 0w's).

95 XLT 70,000mi
K&N filtercharger
Eldlebrock IAS
Torsion twist, soon to add 32X11.5's

[This message has been edited by jwrezz (edited 04-18-2000).]
 






Anybody know anything about Redline? Over at the BMW newsgroup the consensus seems to be that this is the best synthetic. Also found a Corvette website that claims the same.
And, a friend who races a Porsche swears by their special racing oil.
It's d*mn expensive though, around $7.50 a quart. But the recommended oil change intervals are 10k-18k depending on engine stress. That would help offset the cost.
I use Mobil 1 in my car and now that I have close to 12K on my Explorer, I'm thinking of switching to synthetic at my next change. But then, since I put only about 10K miles a year on the Explorer, I would probably easily get 10 to 12 years with just good old dino.
Then again, only one oil change a year is tempting.
Guess I'll wait for the results of Geralds test that's in progress right now.

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Peter
'99 Sport 4wd SOHC

[This message has been edited by Peter Weber (edited 04-18-2000).]
 






I have 90,000 on my 92 explorer and want to change to the synthetic oil,but i'm very concerned about leaks after changing. Whats everyones thougth on switching to a synthetic blend(like castrol syntec blend,just to name one)I was told that i could change back to conventional oil if i was unhappy with the synthetic blend.

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Randy
92 EB 4x4 4dr Explorer
4.0 V6 EFI
K&N Drop-in filter
modified air box
Bosch 4+'s
 






Peter - I have used Redline, Honda, Torco and Royal Purple on my motorcycle. I started with a few cases (at the time I purchased my '92 cbr600f2 new) then went to torco and now use either redline or royal purple, which ever is available and not too d*mn expensive. I think torco, redline and royal purple are all good oils.

jwrezz - I stay away from oils with such a wide weight difference. They seem to break down quicker. This may be more of a factor in motorcycles like my cbr600f2 in which the trans shears the oil before the combustion blow-by chemicals can break the oil down. YMMV.

rooster/Reb - I switched @ 114,000 miles or so to synthetic (as well as the car quest oem wix filter for $1.99) with no additional problems. YMMV.

Reb - you'll pay a bit more for the blend and not get the full longevity of a full synthetic, but you do get ability to add either a synthetic or dino oil if you find yourself a quart low on the trail with out too much of a problem.

I've never heard of a problem switching between synthetics and dino oils other than wanting to do an addition oil change to "flush" out the old oil. Anyone ever switch back and forth between dino and synthetics?

------------------
David Cider
'92 Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0L 4Dr 4...

Current Mods:
Hi flo cat and muffler, KKM Air intake, SuperChip, Magnacor wires and AutoLite Double Platnum plugs

Pending Mods:
JBA headers, 4" Suspension Lift, Tires & Wheels
 






My 91 sport has 132,000 miles on it, I bought it at 119,000. Since I had it I changed my oil every 3k or 3 monthes, using syn. blend. No leaks
My Lincoln MarkVII is an 86 with 124,000
and I had it since 93, using the same interval and oil, No leaks.

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91 Sport
"Drive it like ya stold it"
 






Just wanted to clear something up: Someone said (or maybe not) that synthetic oil 'causes' leaks or harms oil seals. Neither of these is true. Let me elaborate.

Synthetic oil does not cause leaks. Synthetic oil, because it is a higher grade of lubricant and does not break down/sludge up, can leak MORE than an organic oil through the same leak point. So, if you have a leak, synthetic will make it appear to be worse/you will leak more. If you have a leak, FIX THE LEAK, then switch to synthetic.

As for synthetic harming seals, I believe that synthetic is actually better for seals than regular oil, as synthetic doesn't break down or oxidize like organics. It was a trip to see the oil come out after 4000 miles (mobil 1 full synthetic, but even that extra thousand miles made me nervous) as clean as it went in. Crazy stuff, that newfangled awl.

Later
Scott
 






Rooster, David & Scott are absolutely correct in stating that synthetic oils DO NOT cause leaks. Because they flow better, they just leak better. Scott was also correct about synthetics being better for the seals. The synthetics typically run at lower operating temperatures and lower temperatures are better for everything in the engine. Heat is a huge enemy of anything mechanical and whatever you can do to alleviate it will pay huge dividends in the long term.

Also, your concerns about changing to synthetic with 78k on your '94. Your Explorer is probably in excellent operating condition and switching is OK. When someone is switching to AMSOIL, we recommend an engine flush to remove any build up in the engine. Synthetics have a natural detergent action that will actually clean the engine and keep it clean. I know some have posted that doing this has caused problems, but I have never had anyone experience anything bad. What can happen if you don't flush? The synthetic will begin cleaning the engine, carrying contanminents to the filter and plugging it prematurely. The oil will begin bypassing the filter and the engine will appear to burn oil. We have seen this happen after someone has flushed their engine. Most times just changing the filter and topping of the crankcase will alleviate this. Sometimes it has to be done twice. A clean engine is a lot more efficient than a dirty one.

jwrezz, AMSOIL is more expensive. We will never beat anyone on price (at least at retail). E-mail me and I can tell you how to purchase AMSOIL wholesale. As you probably read in the literature you received from AMSOIL, we offer extended drain intervals of up to 25,000 miles. Have been since 1972 and we back it up in writing. Do any of the major oil companies do that? We also publish the results of ASTM and SAE tests done by indenpendent labs in our brochures and in some cases put on the labels of the bottles. If any of these tests were not true, we would have lawsuits piled to the sky. But this has never happened. Our competitors know who we are. I work in downtown Houston very close to Pennzoil, Exxon, Mobil, etc. When I bring the name of AMSOIL up to their people, they know all about us. They just don't want anyone else to know about us because we are so much better than them. The Purple stuff is not what it used to be. We have taken oil directly out of a bottle and sent it in for analysis. The results don't reflect what is on their technical data sheets. Their racing oils are great for just that, not everyday use. Same as Redline. Great for racing, not everyday use.

Now a word about synthetic blends. Don't waste your money. There is probably less than 5% synthetic in it. The extra cost does not warrant using it, especially if your are changing your oil every 3000 miles. Also, those 5W-50 synthetics are pushing the viscocity limits. A range of 25 to 30 is acceptable (0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30, 15W-40, 20W-50). The additional amount of additives to achieve this wide range can cause the oil to break down faster even though it is synthetic. If you want to use a 50 weight oil, use 20W-50.

Gerald and I will keep everyone posted on his "experiment" with Mobil 1. The results at 5000 miles were very good.

------------------
AgExplorer
95 XLT 4X2 4.0L OHV
AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants & Filters
NGK Platinum Plugs
Jacobs Electronics Wires
 






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