Engine Swap 3.5 to PI 3.7 successfully

[taank]

I'm just finding this information and about to undergo the same swap. My 2015 Explorer, that we bought new with 3 miles on it, just died after 265k miles of trouble free driving. The water pump let go and locked it up.

I found a 2016 Lincoln MKZ with 81k miles on the 3.7 for $1200. I'm just here to make sure that this is a solid swap without much surprises.

mine is out of a mks . no issues

 

[Justanothername]

Sorry.. I have been away for a while. Since the swap the Explorer is still running strong. My only issues are not related to the engine swap. Instead its the dreaded power steering failure.. even after Ford changed the rack and pinion. I am debugging that though and testing from software ocilloscope.. fingers crossed I can create a fix. Back to the swap...
As a reminder if you do the swap, you can do it from the front. Btw to give some context, I purchased my engine from LKQ. If I remember correctly it was from 2018 police explorer that was hit in the back. Though the late model long blocks may have different numbers, they are the same. The couple things different or changed that I noticed, I listed in the initial post. For the coolant line under the intake, I just capped it off with a rubber cap and hose clamp. Its not under high pressure. I used my existing Transmission and exhaust manifolds ( The motor didn't come with the manifolds). It did have the manifold studs and they were in the wrong place compared to my 2011. All the holes were there to move the studs successfully. Also I have 4wd xlt model. Oh for the mileage, I did not reset it to match the motor, because the chassis and trans still have original miles. Since I have no plans on ever getting rid of the explorer, it doesn't bother me. I did use forscan for trans relearning and that was about it.

 

[peterk9]

I believe only the 2020+ PIU has the long block. The other 5th gens I believe are all transverse.

Peter

 

[Hendogg26]

Sorry.. I have been away for a while. Since the swap the Explorer is still running strong. My only issues are not related to the engine swap. Instead its the dreaded power steering failure.. even after Ford changed the rack and pinion. I am debugging that though and testing from software ocilloscope.. fingers crossed I can create a fix. Back to the swap...
As a reminder if you do the swap, you can do it from the front. Btw to give some context, I purchased my engine from LKQ. If I remember correctly it was from 2018 police explorer that was hit in the back. Though the late model long blocks may have different numbers, they are the same. The couple things different or changed that I noticed, I listed in the initial post. For the coolant line under the intake, I just capped it off with a rubber cap and hose clamp. Its not under high pressure. I used my existing Transmission and exhaust manifolds ( The motor didn't come with the manifolds). It did have the manifold studs and they were in the wrong place compared to my 2011. All the holes were there to move the studs successfully. Also I have 4wd xlt model. Oh for the mileage, I did not reset it to match the motor, because the chassis and trans still have original miles. Since I have no plans on ever getting rid of the explorer, it doesn't bother me. I did use forscan for trans relearning and that was about it.

My question is the 2011/2012’s have a single VVT solenoid on each valve cover. The 13’s and up have 2 on each cover. What did you do with the second one? Did you just leave it unplugged since the original harness only has 1 for the exhaust side of the engine? Or? And from what I’ve read all FWD cars, SUV’s all take the same 3.5 & 3.7 Duratek engines.. doesn’t matter if it’s from a Lincoln or a ford or a Mazda there all the same. Only ones that are different are the van’s, trucks, and mustangs that have rwd..

 

[Hendogg26]

If you just left the 2nd one unplugged and it works just fine is what I want to know. Cause my local LKQ self pull yard just got in around 30 police Tauruses & Explorers and uselee a engine from a wrecked car or suv is still good.. And can be had for around 400 bucks plus tax and there fee’s from LKQ self pull yards.. And my 2011 needs a engine water pump went down in it and it Blowed a head gasket at the same time..Still runs but Parts wise i would be ahead if I just go pull one and replace it my self from LKQ Vs trying to fix the one that’s in it.. But idk what to do with the 2nd vvt just leave it unplugged or ?? New here by the way. 2nd post so far lol

 

[taank]

My question is the 2011/2012’s have a single VVT solenoid on each valve cover. The 13’s and up have 2 on each cover. What did you do with the second one? Did you just leave it unplugged since the original harness only has 1 for the exhaust side of the engine? Or? And from what I’ve read all FWD cars, SUV’s all take the same 3.5 & 3.7 Duratek engines.. doesn’t matter if it’s from a Lincoln or a ford or a Mazda there all the same. Only ones that are different are the van’s, trucks, and mustangs that have rwd..

the 11 and 12 all have dual vvt's

 

[taank]

If you just left the 2nd one unplugged and it works just fine is what I want to know. Cause my local LKQ self pull yard just got in around 30 police Tauruses & Explorers and uselee a engine from a wrecked car or suv is still good.. And can be had for around 400 bucks plus tax and there fee’s from LKQ self pull yards.. And my 2011 needs a engine water pump went down in it and it Blowed a head gasket at the same time..Still runs but Parts wise i would be ahead if I just go pull one and replace it my self from LKQ Vs trying to fix the one that’s in it.. But idk what to do with the 2nd vvt just leave it unplugged or ?? New here by the way. 2nd post so far lol

here is a video. sorry its a tik tock

 

[peterk9]

My question is the 2011/2012’s have a single VVT solenoid on each valve cover. The 13’s and up have 2 on each cover. What did you do with the second one? Did you just leave it unplugged since the original harness only has 1 for the exhaust side of the engine? Or? And from what I’ve read all FWD cars, SUV’s all take the same 3.5 & 3.7 Duratek engines.. doesn’t matter if it’s from a Lincoln or a ford or a Mazda there all the same. Only ones that are different are the van’s, trucks, and mustangs that have rwd..

Welcome to the Forum.

Peter

 

[LordTerriikk]

If you just left the 2nd one unplugged and it works just fine is what I want to know. Cause my local LKQ self pull yard just got in around 30 police Tauruses & Explorers and uselee a engine from a wrecked car or suv is still good.. And can be had for around 400 bucks plus tax and there fee’s from LKQ self pull yards.. And my 2011 needs a engine water pump went down in it and it Blowed a head gasket at the same time..Still runs but Parts wise i would be ahead if I just go pull one and replace it my self from LKQ Vs trying to fix the one that’s in it.. But idk what to do with the 2nd vvt just leave it unplugged or ?? New here by the way. 2nd post so far lol

I am confused, my 2011 Exploder XLT came with two VVT Solenoids per bank on the original engine. If it's different, you need a different wiring harness which could be a hassle and a half. Running an engine with even one VVT Solenoid disconnected causes the engine to noticeably lose power, and harms the Cam phasers.

 

[Danthehitman]

Hi, I wanted to provide some insight if need to replace your engine. I successfully swapped my 2011 explorer 3.5 NA with a 3.7NA from a 2016 PIU Explorer. After lengthy research of the 3.7 the only difference is the bore size, to give it more power. The ECU, injectors, coilpacks, fuel rails and intake is the same as a 3.5. Therefore, it was a direct swap with very minimal change. The changes would be the same if you swapped a 2011 3.5 NA with a later year 3.5 NA.

Use your existing motor harness
The ECU doesn't have to be changed or re-tuned
You do not have to change injectors or coil packs
You CANNOT use a 3.7 from a F150, Mustang or Transit van (the blocks are different)
You CAN pull the engine from the top of the engine bay.
If you use your earlier year exhaust manifolds, you have to move the studs to match the correct pattern.
You have to swap 2 cam sensors if you have older 3.5, to fit your motor harness
You have to cap off the under intake coolant line ( later year 3.5 and 3.7's have this)

Hope this helps if you need replace an engine and are looking for a little bit more power.

I also wonder now if all modifications for a 3.7NA (f150s and Mustangs) will directly work with 3.5 NA's explorer (ie superchargers, tuners, etc)

Hey, thank you for the great post. I am thinking about doing a similar swap but on a Taurus/Interceptor 3.5. I think, from what I've read, this should be nearly the same as your swap just different chassis. I'd love to hear any thoughts you might have. Thanks!

 

[BobbyQuitz]

Hey, thank you for the great post. I am thinking about doing a similar swap but on a Taurus/Interceptor 3.5. I think, from what I've read, this should be nearly the same as your swap just different chassis. I'd love to hear any thoughts you might have. Thanks!

I am confused, my 2011 Exploder XLT came with two VVT Solenoids per bank on the original engine. If it's different, you need a different wiring harness which could be a hassle and a half. Running an engine with even one VVT Solenoid disconnected causes the engine to noticeably lose power, and harms the Cam phasers.

Would anyone know if it’s possible to change from a 3.7 engine to the 3.5 twin turbo?

 

[peterk9]

Would anyone know if it’s possible to change from a 3.7 engine to the 3.5 twin turbo?

Welcome to the Forum Bobby.
I can't say for sure but since a 3.5 was successfully swapped for a 3.5, I'm only guessing that you could also go the other way. I'm sure someone with more technical knowledge will reply.

Peter

 

[SafetySteve]

I am swapping a 2014 explorer 3.5 litre eco boost with a 2017 explorer 3.7 litre police interceptor engine. Do I need to use the wiring harness from my 3.5 litre engine on the 3.7 litre engine. If so, can you provide some guidance as the plug ends are different. Thanks a ton

 

[peterk9]

I am swapping a 2014 explorer 3.5 litre eco boost with a 2017 explorer 3.7 litre police interceptor engine. Do I need to use the wiring harness from my 3.5 litre engine on the 3.7 litre engine. If so, can you provide some guidance as the plug ends are different. Thanks a ton

Welcome to the Forum Steve.
I don't know about the actual engine swap but I do know that the Explorer was 'refreshed' in 2016 and there were apparently many changes to the electrical architecture.

Peter

 

[SafetySteve]

Thanks Peter. I sure hope the electrical are compatible as I decided to go with the 2017 wiring harness with switching out one plug from the 2014 harness. It’s a lot of work if it doesn’t work. The engines themselves swap quite nicely. We had a turbo charger blow and metal in the oil…thus the swap to a non turbo engine. Praying it all goes according to plan