Explorer 98, bad engine start and reaction to gas pedal ?

[wollimann]

Couldn't it also be a problem that my pressure gauge doesn't have a vent line?

It dosen't matter, pressure is pressure, the gauge needle must move.

what if the fuel does not appear after pushing it

You simply have no fuel pressure. As i said, no running without pressure.
Every time you hit the ignition the pump runs for 2 seconds and build pressure.
If you do that 2-4 times, there is enough pressure to start the engine.
I bet there is a leak inside the tank (rubber hose/clamp).

 

[wollimann]

I don't know what such an adapter should be called

Amazon.com

something called

Fuel Rail Pressure Gauge Adapter for Ford Schrader Valve Service Port​

 

[donalds]

I bet there is a leak inside the tank (rubber hose/clamp

Could also be the check valve inside the fuel pump went bad
I say from experience

 

[wollimann]

Yes you are right , this pump check valve could be bad too.

 

[allmyEXes]

Click link. Valve core removal tool

 

[999fff]

It dosen't matter, pressure is pressure, the gauge needle must move.

You simply have no fuel pressure. As i said, no running without pressure.
Every time you hit the ignition the pump runs for 2 seconds and build pressure.
If you do that 2-4 times, there is enough pressure to start the engine.
I bet there is a leak inside the tank (rubber hose/clamp).
View attachment 454118

however, the engine still started and ran

 

[Mbrooks420]

however, the engine still started and ran

Because you ACTUALLY HAVE fuel pressure. You’ve got a problem with your gauge.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Did the V6 trucks switch to returnless style mid 1998 like the 5.0 trucks?

 

[wollimann]

I think the transition was about 98-99, yes.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I think the transition was about 98-99, yes.

That doesn’t answer the question I asked.

 

[999fff]

After a year I am giving the result here. The car works as it should. The fuel pressure was correct, but... the pump had a damaged float + slightly damaged suction strainer and since I had a new pump, I replaced it and when the tank was outside, I immediately had it sandblasted and painted it with a new basic 2K epoxy and top polyurethane incl. tank holder and replaced the screws with stainless steel ones (the original ones turned over the thread when loosened (corrosion). However, this did not affect starting, the air weight was bad.
___
As I mentioned, the problem was ultimately caused by the air mass, which was purchased new from RockAuto. However, after its inspection, it turned out that the problem was solved only for about two starts and a 5 km trip, then the problem returned. So began the replacement of other parts, from spark plugs, cables, coil, cleaning the air intake manifold from carbon... including replacing all seals, the idle speed valve and even a new air filter. Despite all this, the problem still persisted. Finally, it was discovered after several tests through diagnostics with the engine test option in the program and voltage measurement that the "new" MAF was bad and showed only 0.9 V... the correct value should be 1.1 - 1.3 V and gradually change depending on the speed. So the complaint to RockAuto was clear and a new MAF was sent to me for free. The Ford now starts as it should and the starts are also as they should be.

 

[410Fortune]

Yes 98 model was the switch from return fuel to returnless same as the v8

Fuel pressure for return style is 42 psi (two fuel lines)
Fuel pressure for returnless is 68 psi (one fuel line to engine)

The 97 sohc had a return fuel rail and pressure regulator that is a one year item and very rare part. If you own a 97 sohc When the regulator goes bad you are screwed… unless you fabricate something

 

[wollimann]

Yes, very rare part.

Maybe Bosch 0 280 160 554 or Volvo 9146761 fuel pressure regulator could be a alternative.

 

[410Fortune]

I like the way you think, it looks like it may bolt up?

In the old days a Buick 3.8l adjustable fuel pressure regulator can be made to work anything that maintains 42 psi rail pressure

 

[wollimann]

That were not my thoughts, found this information somewhere while i am searching for the OEM regulator.
As i remember Bosch/Volvo will fit, only the Ford o-ring has to be used, bigger outer diameter.
Never tried the alternative, found a good used OEM spare.