Explorer Audio upgrade(s)

[peterk9]

Hello everyone, I do believe that I have searched to the end and back on the internet looking for any information on the designation of the wire colors on the back of my 2014 Ford Explorer Stereo with the Sync without the navigation. As I have done to my previous Fords without problems I want to hook up a stand alone sub control, amp and sub to the factory head-unit. To accomplish this I instal a RCA converter (usually behind the dash) via tapping into the wires coming out of the head-unit (left +/- and right +/-) I also need the color description for a remote wire (power comes on when the radio turns on). Very long story short if anyone could give me some guidance on this it would be GREAT!!!!!!! God Bless and thank you. Ed. (direction to a previous post that addressees this would also be greatly appreciated)

Welcome to the Forum ExplorerHP.:wavey:
As Mentioned in my PM, I have merged your thread with this existing one. Check out post 63, perhaps that will help you.
Good luck.

Peter

 

[GBot]

I instal a RCA converter (usually behind the dash) via tapping into the wires coming out of the head-unit

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but using an amp with line-in inputs would be much better. The RCA converters I've used in the past have suffered from alternator noise and generally poor sound quality.

Check elsewhere in this thread for diagrams, or the the12volt.com

 

[Live_Dang3rously]

seriously confused

Adding to this thread with a question that I don’t think qualifies for a new thread and I apologize in advance for its length.

After numerous searches and reading this entire thread, I am still confused on what I need to do to replace the factory speakers in my 2014 Sport to get some decent volume and sound quality out of the Sony system (which makes me miss the stock system in my 2012 XLT).

My original thought was that it would be as simple as just purchasing replacement speakers in the Front and rear doors and add a multi-channel amplifier (4 or 6 channel?). But the more I read about signal processors and the Sony amplifier having to stay, I just kept getting more confused, so I thought I would just pose what I am looking at adding and hoping someone will guide me in the right direction.

I was thinking of adding the below items:

-Front Door: Kicker 40CSS694
-Rear Door: Kicker KS60
-Amp (if Needed): Kicker 12CX300.4 (40W RMS x 4)
-Underseat: Kicker Hideaway 11HS8 (already purchased 2 and they being are being installed under each of the front seats Saturday).

I am looking for increased volume and quality from the Sony system and am hoping this makes it so I do not have to turn the system ¾’s of the way up for it to have cabin filling sound and even higher if I want to hear the music with the windows down.

Also as far as the amplifier installation would go, I do not know where I could mount it without losing cargo space, since the under the front seats will be occupied.

I stuck with Kicker due to a special discount I get through work that comes in way under MSRP for me

Thank you to anyone that may be able to give their expert opinion.

 

[corpflyboy]

Here is a quote I received today from a local reputable shop that deals with all the manufacturers shown on the quote. Do you think this is outrageous or within the norm for a non DIY install? I don't want to piecemeal this on my own for a change. Getting older and I tire easily

DescriptionQty Rate Total
Focal performance PC 165 6.5” coaxial kit, RMS: 80W - MAX:
160W
1 350.00 350.00T
Focal Performance 6” 2-way component kit, RMS: 80W - MAX: 16
0W
1 400.00 400.00T
Coax speaker install premium1 80.00 80.00T
Component speaker system install premium1 100.00 100.00T
starboard constructed speaker rings 5x7-6.5 needed to fit properly
and hold up to dampness that occurs
4 25.00 100.00T
JL Audio HD900/5 5-channel Class-D System Amplifier. 100W x 4
@ 4 ohms / 75W x 4 @ 1.5-3 ohms (Main Channels) 500W x 1 @
1.5-4 ohms (Subwoofer Channel)
1 1,000.00 1,000.00T
JL Audio Premium 4 AWG 12-Volt Power Connection System for
Single Amplifier, 100 Amp capacity (80A MAXI® fuse included),
Blue power wire & Clear ground wire
1 140.00 140.00T
Additional RCA's needed1 75.00 75.00T
SB-FEXPL3/10W3V31 600.00 600.00T
Installation of stealth box1 225.00 225.00T
AUDIOCONT 6CH EQ/OUT CONVERTER1 240.00 240.00T
AUDIOCONT REMOTE FOR LC7/DQL8.1 40.00 40.00T
Installation of LCQ-11 75.00 75.00T
$3,630.50
$3,425.00
$205.50

By The Way, sorry for .txt version of the PDF quote I received. I did not want to have my info or the audio store info mentioned.

 

[soulpatch]

I would have to look up the components but the install costs are quite high.

I would spot check the components and install materials on a site like crutchfield or such. While not near to exact it would give you idea of their markup on top of the already marked up crutchfield....

 

[willied]

Other places to check would be Sonic Electronix and Amazon. Like soulpatch said, Crutchfield is already marked up so if the prices are around that or less than you can get an idea of whether or not you are being ripped off. I looked up just the speakers on Amazon and there they are $300. They're $350 at Crutchfield.

That list is a little hard to read. How much is the total for labor?

 

[PIUtility]

I added a Kenwood powered mini sub under the passenger seat on m PI. Only came with 6 speaker system, no sub. Its not a thumper in anyway shape or form, but it did an amazing job of filling in the missing midrange and low level bass

 

[corpflyboy]

Thank You for the replies. I am not about to pull the trigger yet. Once my tune for my SCT tuner arrives I might get more serious.

Buzz

 

[soulpatch]

The other thing to note is that if you buy online at a lot of the venues you can get install kits for the products for free or next to nothing. So some of your costs would be reduced doing that.

The one that stuck out to me is that they are charging 180 for the coax and component speaker installs. And that is just the labor. Add in another 100 for the door rings they say you need (questionable though I have not yanked the doors on theexplorer yet) That cost is too high.

And $75 bucks for RCAs....wow... Unless I am missing something from that hard to read quote you only need the one set to go to the amp. How is that $75? Even at the 12-20 foot or so you will need hard to see $75.

Though all this said it has been about 4 years since I needed to put in an audio system or was installing them on the side so I might be totally out of place with prices these days...

 

[corpflyboy]

The other thing to note is that if you buy online at a lot of the venues you can get install kits for the products for free or next to nothing. So some of your costs would be reduced doing that.

The one that stuck out to me is that they are charging 180 for the coax and component speaker installs. And that is just the labor. Add in another 100 for the door rings they say you need (questionable though I have not yanked the doors on theexplorer yet) That cost is too high.

And $75 bucks for RCAs....wow... Unless I am missing something from that hard to read quote you only need the one set to go to the amp. How is that $75? Even at the 12-20 foot or so you will need hard to see $75.

Though all this said it has been about 4 years since I needed to put in an audio system or was installing them on the side so I might be totally out of place with prices these days...

Some of the stuff will disappear if it is not used. He added some stuff to make sure there are no cost over runs. JL audio will do a three year warranty if they install the equipment and use the jl wire harness cables etc. Audio control will also jump to a 5 year if I let them install the LCQ-1. If I buy the 1000.00 jl amp for 850.00-900.00 on ebay I get zero warranty. Etc. I have taken small chances in the past with showing up at a car audio place and dumping all my ebay stuff off and just paid for labor. I think I am beyond that now.

I dont want to install the system myself. Crutchfield is great for that...I have done that in the past. You get what you pay for there.

These guys are one of the best in Melbourne and they show it with their labor rates. Ugh!

Buzz

 

[Bkmcinty]

So after reading this entire thread I still have a question!! I have a 2011 limited with the sony syestem. I have located the amp near the subwoofer and have three different plugs going into the amplifier. Can anyone tell me which plugs are coming IN to the amp and which plug is the output to the speakers? I read everything I could find on the12volt but still the question hasn't been answered. I'm trying to tie a line output converter to one of the speakers BEFORE the amplifier to add an amplifier for new front door speakers. 12volt says rear right is brown/white + and brown/blue -. I found those wires on the black plug but I'm not sure if that is pre amp or post amp. That's the speaker I want to tie into to get the signal for my loc but cannot determine if that plug and pair of wires is pre amp or not. Any help would be greatly appreciated as it's Sunday and my truck needs to be put back together for work tomorrow!!

 

[GBot]

Can anyone tell me which plugs are coming IN to the amp and which plug is the output to the speakers?

OP has a 2012 Limited with the Sony system and he says the subwoofer is dual voice coil, which would mean 4 wires = post amp. If you have 3 wires, I'm guessing that's positive, negative, and remote turn-on leads (aka preamp signal wires).

Don't quote me on that; I'm just trying to make an educated guess. Installation of subs in my 2014 Sport hasn't made it to the top of my to do list yet...

 

[Bkmcinty]

Thanks but I'm not trying to install subs. I'm doing a 4 channel amp install for front door speakers. Trying to tap into the right rear speaker PRE amplifier. Just not sure which plug is pre and which plug is post

 

[CalifLove]

Run a cleansweep after the factory amp, done.

Resurrecting an old thread here...

Wondering if anyone has integrated a JL Cleansweep or AudioControl Dq-61 or similar into the the late model Explorer?

From what I can tell it appears to get the Cleansweep particular to work you would need the following:
1 CL441dsp
2 CL-SSI

The CL44 is the main unit, the CL-SSI is a "signal summing" device.

In my head you have one of the CL-SSI's for the front signals (FL /FR High and "band pass" spkr lines for tweets and midbass respectively) and the other for the same thing in the rear. I suppose both of the SSI's would get the sub feeds.

Can anyone think of a less expensive but "proper" way to do this using the Cleansweep tech? I don't evne see how the same could be accomplished with AudioControl products now that I really think about it. Is it possible to grab the front and rear signals component speakers before the signal is x'd over?


Reason for all of this - I've blown a couple of the stock spkrs in the doors of my ExSpo now...want to replace with real components and amps (already own) but the OEM signal path is a little perplexing to say the least!

 

[GBot]

JL Cleansweep

No advice, unfortunately, but FWIW it seems you have as good a grasp on the installation as I have. Merge the front channels, merge the rear, then patch the signal into the DSP, and then output to your aftermarket amps...

From past experience though, I'd have to say that customer service at Crutchfield has been great, and may be able to answer this question with a little more authority (also it's worth considering their open box items to save some money and coupon codes are easy to find - such as 20OFFRMN for $20 off $250, good until 7/31/14).

Have you pulled out the head unit on your Sport to look at the back of it? I'm pretty sure it's different than the XLT shown below (haven't gotten around to opening up my Sport yet), but if so you may be able to skip the signal summing devices and save some good money.

Either way, PLEASE document your findings here for the benefits of others here. IMO, the Sport's audio system is under-represented in this thread and I can't wait to dig into my dash once I have the time.

Edit:

I don't evne see how the same could be accomplished with AudioControl products now that I really think about it.

Wait, check out this diagram for the AudioControl LC6i. Get one for the front speakers, one for the rear speakers (it'll merge high, mid, and low channels), then output to your amps. Cheaper than getting the 3 modules from JL and would accomplish the same tasks.

 

[corpflyboy]

Heard this is the way to go also..

http://www.audiocontrol.com/17612/7...Converter-with-Equalization-and-AccuBASS.html

 

[CalifLove]

No advice, unfortunately, but FWIW it seems you have as good a grasp on the installation as I have. Merge the front channels, merge the rear, then patch the signal into the DSP, and then output to your aftermarket amps...

From past experience though, I'd have to say that customer service at Crutchfield has been great, and may be able to answer this question with a little more authority (also it's worth considering their open box items to save some money and coupon codes are easy to find - such as 20OFFRMN for $20 off $250, good until 7/31/14).

Have you pulled out the head unit on your Sport to look at the back of it? I'm pretty sure it's different than the XLT shown below (haven't gotten around to opening up my Sport yet), but if so you may be able to skip the signal summing devices and save some good money.

Either way, PLEASE document your findings here for the benefits of others here. IMO, the Sport's audio system is under-represented in this thread and I can't wait to dig into my dash once I have the time.



Edit:



Wait, check out this diagram for the AudioControl LC6i. Get one for the front speakers, one for the rear speakers (it'll merge high, mid, and low channels), then output to your amps. Cheaper than getting the 3 modules from JL and would accomplish the same tasks.

Thanks for that. Did some checking online, it appears you can get the three jl boxes in total for cheaper than two audio control boxes (amazon used /refurbished).

That said, I just ordered the main jl unit and will initially just plan to replace the front components and sub leaving the rear setup stock for now and see how that goes. Since bass appears to be rolled off on the rear channels I suspect those speakers will continue to provide a decent fill and not distort (perhaps with slight fade adjustment. )

I should have gear this week and will update.

Thanks

 

[FLEO]

Thanks to everyone!!!

Hello, I recently purchased a 9k used 2014 Ex Sport Black with the 401A package and love it so far!!! I wanted to say thank you to everyone on the forum and especially this thread for the all info, pics, and comments. I traded in 09 Hyundai Genesis 4.6 with an amazing 17 Speaker Lexicon audio system. So when I purchased the Sport I knew the audio system did not compare to my last car. While I would love to invest the time and money into a clean sweep, amps, and new speaker to make the 12 speaker sony system better as a whole. However, not wanting to spend a ton of money right after purchasing the vehicle, I want to better the low end of the system. after reading up and viewing pics I cleanly installed a SSL PSY1000.2 amp, Kicker CVT COMPVT 12 (due to using a slim box at first but changed to a ), 12" Metra sealed box. I installed a RCA level control into the right rear panel and tapped into the amps rear door speaker output. I ran the power and amp remote turn on wire through the drivers door jam/right front friended into the engine bay to the battery and fuse panel. I didn't want to drill through the firewall. I ran the amps sub volume remote dial into the consoles audio input cubbyhole on the lid so that when the lid pops up so does the volume dial. Ran all the wires cleanly and none, other than the door jam are visible. It's sounds great!!! Thanks again for all the info that allowed me to have great sound cheaply and install it myself!!!

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums...5-295A-402D-9458-25B56F269727_zpsei0j6kic.jpg

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums...5-3699-4110-B8CF-1CB2BBA84DC7_zpsrm1rsxsw.jpg

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums...9-B647-46AC-BDC9-77C46AF65D91_zpsjlgnrumk.jpg

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums...C-B8BD-4E21-B043-CB9C83B75094_zpscalcq2xh.jpg

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag186/Christopher_Wiet/imagejpg1_zps3c1d2c68.jpg


http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag186/Christopher_Wiet/imagejpg2_zpsb484ab19.jpg

Thanks!!!

 

[Tony407]

Speaker Impedance

I did a search, zero information.

Just bought a 2015 Explorer Sport. I am VERY disappointed with the Sony sound system. I was hoping someone else had already done their homework and looked up (or figured out) what the impedance is on the speakers? Specifically the tweeters and midwoofers in the front door and the center channel, which I would like to try and simply swap out with something aftermarket. If this isn't an option, I'll just tap into the OEM wiring and run my own wires, amp(s) and speakers. Was hoping to try just a swap first and see what happens.

Anyone have information on the impedance?

Tony

 

[peterk9]

Above thread merged with this existing one.

Peter