Explorer Audio upgrade(s)

[El_Chapo]

I have been running a DSR1 for about a year and a half now. The only problem I found was occasionally I have no sound. I have to turn off the car for a little while then turn it back on for the sound to return. It happened 4 or 5 times since I had it, I have no idea why or how to repeat the problem.

Do you have a sony or non sony?

 

[peterk9]

Do you have a sony or non sony?

I believe the Limiteds all had the Sony system.

Peter

 

[El_Chapo]

I believe the Limiteds all had the Sony system.

Peter

Ah i didn't see he had a Limited.
Im fighting with my XLT

 

[wharriso]

Ah i didn't see he had a Limited.
Im fighting with my XLT

Yeah, I have the Sony. I thought the DSR1 was only for that screwy canbus stereo setup. Don't you have audio outputs in your head unit?

 

[El_Chapo]

Yeah, I have the Sony. I thought the DSR1 was only for that screwy canbus stereo setup. Don't you have audio outputs in your head unit?

No unfortunately. Started with the audio control LCQ1 i hated it terrible to work with on ford. So im going to give the DSR1 a try using the universal installation method.

 

[Coleon]

Thanks snm, I am planning a JBL ms-8 processor which will drive all speakers except for sub for now (amp addition later) and looking into either a JBL shallow 10 sub and jbl mono amp or a pioneer shallow 10 and pioneer amp in a custom fiberglass enclosure molded behind rear passenger panel. I will be mounting the ms-8 there as well.

I may not yet change factory speakers yet because I wanna see what the Ms -8 does first, if I change it all I won't know what the Ms -8 brings to the table....

Yes this way 7-8 yrs old. But Im hoping you still have the attached acct and email as Im in the same boat and are extremly curious as to the MS-8 and how the all around quality and the output on the stock sub and what you ended up doing....

Many Thanks in Advance..

 

[Coleon]

I'm coming a bit late to this posting but here is my speaker upgrade so far on my '13 limited with sony system. Ordered Polk db 5.25 replacements from Crutchfield for the rear doors and the generic spacer to position them out from the door similar to the factory setup - the spacer is not quite the same thickness but close enough to clear the inner door workings... Had to drill new mounting point pilot holes and used the factory screws to attach the spacers. Then I cut back some wire shielding and soldered on new leads, taped them up & secured with wire ties. Then I took some thick foam and cut it into a circle to match outer speaker size, cut out the center and siliconed it to the spacer to seal the open space between the speaker ring face and inner door panel. Basically the work is the same for the fronts but I went for the Polk db 6X9's. I left the factory tweeters as they are. There was a noticably improvement in sound quality and definition. I adjusted my audio settings to stereo & neutral positions after listening to a varied selection of tunes. What I did notice what the sub is now a bit weaker sounding due to the effiency of the Polk db's.
I inspected the sub enclosure and figured out how to modify it to accept a 10" replacement & just ordered a Helix DVC 2 ohm. In a couple weeks I'll have that done (after a vacation break) and add to the report.

Just curious: Did you know how much volume the stock enclosure has? and on that new speaker what was the minimum sealed enclosure spec?

 

[15expsp]

Wanted to share my newly installed system. Goal was to have everything hidden, retain all OEM functionality, and provide excellent SQ. I started with a 2017 Platinum with Sony 12 Speaker Audio.

PAC AmpPro
Audison Bit Nove
JL Audio XD600/6v2
Hertz Mille Legend MLK 165.3 components for the fronts
Hertz Mille Pro MPX 165.3 coaxials for the rears
JL Audio XD600/1v2
JL Audio Stealthbox with 10W3v3

The PAC AmpPro is a fantastic product and really the only way to go in these cars. There is no practical way to get better flat signal than using one of these. De-EQ'ing the high level signals coming from the Sony amp is a crapshoot. This is the only way of ensuring you're getting a true flat signal.

The Bit Nove has been awesome so far, although we're still trying to hunt down some hiss and whine. I'm having the shop try out grounding straight to the battery to see fi that helps, but with the CV19 foolishness going on they're having trouble keeping installers in the bay.

I can't say enough about the Mille Legends. I've tried them with no low pass filter and the sub disabled and I can confidently say that you wouldn't be disappointed if you were in a position to not want a subwoofer for whatever reason.

Speaking of subwoofers, JL Audio did a hell of a job with this generation's Stealthbox. The key is going to making sure that it is SECURELY mounted. And you're going to have to sound deaden both the inside of the quarter panel and the backside of the interior trim panel. It will buzz at the top near the rear window so apply material every square inch all the way up the side. My only gripe with the Stealthbox is that the OEM black that it comes in is actually more of a dark grey and doesn't match the interior carpet and trim 100% but it doesn't look terribly out of place.

The XD600/6v2 running the fronts and rears is installed under the driver seat. The Audison and the XD600/1v2 are installed side by side under the front passenger seat. There's plenty of room down there for the gear and all the wiring. To protect them from wet shoes, I have Husky Liners all the way around and they provide some protection from slinging moisture without compromising airflow. I feel it's perfectly adequate given that I rarely experience snow or slush that would cause a problem. All of the gear panels are accessible my moving the seat back or front and the USB port for the Audison is easily reached from behind the front passenger seat.

We're still working on the finishing touches for tuning. The biggest thing I have to get done is disconnecting the center channel. It totally ruins the sound imaging. You basically can't TA the Audison until you do this. What you'll have to know going in is that if you disconnect all the front speakers (L,R, and C), you need to disconnect the battery, let the CANBUS die, and do a reset procedure on the PAC. PAC assures me once you do that the PAC will handle all chimes, parking detectors, and SYNC audio (BT, NAV). I haven't tried it yet so I'll post back if this doesn't work. If you don't disconnect the center channel, phone calls will only come through the center channel and your audio will kind of dance around while the parking sensors are going as the center channel mutes and unmutes at a different time than the aftermarket amps.

I also had them disconnect the third row speakers, but be advised when you do this, you won't get a chime when you close the hatch. I'm going to have the reconnect these speakers because they aren't affected the front seat audio that much and I want the chime.

If anybody wants pictures, I can upload some.

Would love to see as much as possible your build sounds similar to my current wish list

 

[15expsp]

Sounds like you did a great job. Pics or it didn't happen!!!

Would love to see as much as possible your build fits my idea for building the wife's sport

 

[peterk9]

Would love to see as much as possible your build fits my idea for building the wife's sport

Welcome to the Forum.
Only the member you quoted in your first post performed the mods.

Peter

 

[daverns]

QUOTE="daverns, post: 3551371, member: 248381"]A few weeks back I upgraded the front and 2nd row speakers with JBL 6x9 (front) and 5 1/4 for the 2nd row, the sound is now clearer but still missing bass, so I am planning to install a sub with built in amp, choosing between the JBL SL8 or the Kenwood KSC SW11. Last week end I did the install prep while deciding on the sub, installed the Line converter to RCA Kicker SLOC and the power cable to the battery. I was able to use the grommet at the back of the glove box used for the rear washer hose, it's very hard, I followed a tip from the previous post, where he loosen the clips of the washer hose, then pull out the grommet and cut a hole in the grommet, and insert the 10 gauge wire (these subs only require 12 gauge) far enough so I can reach it from the engine side, before putting it back I put in silicone to seal it. It was also hard to put back the grommet since I can barely reach the hole to put it in. I was planning to take pictures of the grommet but forgot about it, since I am tired and sweating so much (Texas heat). Hoping to install the sub this week end.

I decided to install the Kenwood KSC SW11, it's much cheaper than the JBL SL8. Completed the install yesterday and I am happy with the result. You can now call the sound as PREMIUM. I installed it under the middle of the second row seats, it fits nicely, it has about maybe 1.5 inches clearance between the sub woofer and the seat.

[/QUOTE]
After a few months, I added the kicker key 180.4 and a new sub woofer with built in amp. Sounds amazing now...

 

[goalieThreeOne]

If anyone's interested, I am selling my Stealthbox and my AmpPro for the fifth gen.