Explorer Heater Core Shortcut / Finding the NW Passage

[tinkering]

A member asked in this thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3320663#post3320663 (full of different shortcut methods in remedying the Explorer blender door curse) asked if the heater core too could be accessed by cutting the under dash black coffin apart. I didn't see any reply to that but what a great thought. I just read 'heater core woes' http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215965&highlight=heater+core+shortcut WHOLLY TOLEDO!!!!

I am going to go to the wreckers and do exploratory surgery on a 98 Explorer to see if there is any way to cut that core out of there; I don't care if it is 4 hours of cutting and 4 more for reconstructive plastic surgery. I AM NOT GOING TO DISMANTLE MY ENTIRE EXPLORER JUST TO REACH THAT SON OF A PEARL OF A HEATER CORE. THAT IS A MOST RIDICULOUS PRACTICE THE MANUFACTURERS USE IN BUILDING A VEHICLE AROUND A HEATER CORE. THAT IS ABUSE!!!!

I may not get around to this for a couple of months but it is definitely an expedition on my list. Subscribe to this thread if you are at all interested; you will get notification when I get some results posted.

 

[koda2000]

yep, it's a bear of a job. unfortunately this has been the case pretty much since they regularly started putting heaters in vehicles in the 60's. once they started including A/C it really got complicated to replace the core. it's just the way it is. personally, if i had to spent 8 hrs chopping stuff up, i'd just bite the bullet and do it the right way. good luck.

 

[tinkering]

yep, it's a bear of a job. unfortunately this has been the case pretty much since they regularly started putting heaters in vehicles in the 60's. once they started including A/C it really got complicated to replace the core. it's just the way it is. personally, if i had to spent 8 hrs chopping stuff up, i'd just bite the bullet and do it the right way. good luck.

Thanks.

You're right there, if the chop job is going to be the same or longer of a job than the 'expected' way then it would be redundant but if it ever has to be changed again the savings could be felt. Imagine if gto4evr, the original poster in the aforementioned thread 'heater core woes' would have experienced a leak after persevering through the enormous tear down and reconstruction he described. That might be enough to send a guy over the hump :fire:

(I just recently chopped into the bottom housing of my Acer laptop to replace the cpu without the expected full dismantle procedure. If it was a brand new unit I probably would have done it the 'right' way but I was getting tired of the necessary complete tear down for all kinds of service and repairs including simply cleaning dust and hair blockages from the cpu heatsink cooling fins. The laptop works fine; now with better air flow too

Can you tell me if the Explorer heater core has any fasteners or brackets holding it in place once you get inside the black coffin or is it just sandwiched between the two halves like I have seen many times before?
Also, are the heater hoses on the engine side easy to undo without moving a bunch of A/C components etc. The reason I ask this one and don't just look myself is that the vehicle will not be here with me for a couple of weeks. :scratch:

 

[crunchie_frog]

There is a series of youtube videos showing how to remove the heater core on Explorers/Mountaineers. Here is one that shows some of the hardware behind the dash between you and the heater core that might show you some of the stuff you will have to get through if you try cutting it out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xvSMSISK-0

I replaced the heater core in my son's Mountaineer last year and all the cuts on my hands from reaching the 4th bolt behind the engine have healed up now . For me, the hardest part was getting the dash back in and connecting the steering column back up, a two person job as I needed someone to hold the dash up while I connected the steering column back. Other than that and the "4th bolt", it was not the worst job ever but definitely not the easiest. Probably could have done without disconnecting the steering column but it made it easier to get to the heater core.

For me, I would do it the "regular" way. I guess it is sort of a hobby for me to try to keep everything as close to original as I can.

good luck

 

[tinkering]

There is a series of youtube videos showing how to remove the heater core on Explorers/Mountaineers. Here is one that shows some of the hardware behind the dash between you and the heater core that might show you some of the stuff you will have to get through if you try cutting it out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xvSMSISK-0

I replaced the heater core in my son's Mountaineer last year and all the cuts on my hands from reaching the 4th bolt behind the engine have healed up now . For me, the hardest part was getting the dash back in and connecting the steering column back up, a two person job as I needed someone to hold the dash up while I connected the steering column back. Other than that and the "4th bolt", it was not the worst job ever but definitely not the easiest. Probably could have done without disconnecting the steering column but it made it easier to get to the heater core.

For me, I would do it the "regular" way. I guess it is sort of a hobby for me to try to keep everything as close to original as I can.

good luck

Thanks for those links, and your experienced feedback.

I used to be more concerned with keeping things original but now I like reverse engineering service improvements; fashionable function. I like access hatches whether they are factory or field designed; life is getting shorter everyday

 

[koda2000]

Thanks.

You're right there, if the chop job is going to be the same or longer of a job than the 'expected' way then it would be redundant but if it ever has to be changed again the savings could be felt. Imagine if gto4evr, the original poster in the aforementioned thread 'heater core woes' would have experienced a leak after persevering through the enormous tear down and reconstruction he described. That might be enough to send a guy over the hump :fire:

(I just recently chopped into the bottom housing of my Acer laptop to replace the cpu without the expected full dismantle procedure. If it was a brand new unit I probably would have done it the 'right' way but I was getting tired of the necessary complete tear down for all kinds of service and repairs including simply cleaning dust and hair blockages from the cpu heatsink cooling fins. The laptop works fine; now with better air flow too

Can you tell me if the Explorer heater core has any fasteners or brackets holding it in place once you get inside the black coffin or is it just sandwiched between the two halves like I have seen many times before?
Also, are the heater hoses on the engine side easy to undo without moving a bunch of A/C components etc. The reason I ask this one and don't just look myself is that the vehicle will not be here with me for a couple of weeks. :scratch:

as far as i know the core is sandwiched inside the "coffin" (i've never seen one that had any attachment points) and the 2 hoses from the engine compartment should just be 2 hose clamps.

example: 98 Explorer heater core... "restrained casing fit"

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=946788&cc=1304424

 

[tinkering]

as far as i know the core is sandwiched inside the "coffin" (i've never seen one that had any attachment points) and the 2 hoses from the engine compartment should just be 2 hose clamps.

Example: 98 explorer heater core... "restrained casing fit"

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=946788&cc=1304424

thanks!

 

[artest7]

Pulling Explorer Heater core by cutting into dash panel

Hi Tinkering!
I am in the same predicament of having to change out my Heater Core and Blend Door on my 2001 5.0 Explorer (Eddie Bauer). Did you ever get a chance to see if it is possible?
Thanks in advance!
Art E.

 

[tinkering]

Hi Tinkering!
I am in the same predicament of having to change out my Heater Core and Blend Door on my 2001 5.0 Explorer (Eddie Bauer). Did you ever get a chance to see if it is possible?
Thanks in advance!
Art E.

Hi artest7,
My leak turned out to be the lower intake manifold gasket so I have not explored this route at the wreckers (yet). I wish I could help you more at this time.
If you go to the wreckers for exploratory surgery please post your findings here.
Good talking to you,
tinkering

 

[artest7]

Cutting into Explorer under dash

Oh well.. I figured it would be worth me cutting into the panel if I KNEW the Blend Door was bad. Also, would be AWESOME if I could change out the Heater Core in there as well!
Thanks anyway!
ae

 

[tinkering]

Oh well.. I figured it would be worth me cutting into the panel if I KNEW the Blend Door was bad. Also, would be AWESOME if I could change out the Heater Core in there as well!
Thanks anyway!
ae

As per the link/s in this thread, it is possible and recommended to change the blend door by cutting into the bottom of the black box. The cutting directions come with the Dorman kit; there is a picture indicating the incision with a dotted line. The Dorman kit for my Explorer (1998) is # 902-221. It was very inexpensive.

If the white blend door actuator motor on the top of the black box (accessible through glove box opening I think) is not the problem then your blend door is the problem. Most of those blend doors broke (at the top post). The new Dorman blend door top post comes reinforced with metal.

I have not done the job myself yet (but many in this forum have) so I can't reflect on the location of the heater core in respect to the incision.
When you cut the opening for the blend door replacement you may be able to evaluate if the heater core 'operation' is going to be at all feasible. If you get any info on that please post it.
Thanks

 

[artest7]

Blower Motor working, No air coming out anywhere.

The original problem is that "Even though the Blower Motor is Running, no air is coming out of the vents OR defrost (I can't feel it there either) on ANY settings. So, correct me if I'm wrong but, the problem isn't necessarily the blend door. It could be an array of different things. BTW... I found the Vacuum Reservoir (that black softball looking globe) disconnected. After I plugged it back in....I'm still having the same problem.... "No air is coming out of any of the vents/defroster/floor etc" But...I can hear the blower motor running..

Any other suggestions (than having to cut open to get to the blend door) are MUCH APPRECIATED!!
Thanks in advance!
AE

 

[tinkering]

The original problem is that "Even though the Blower Motor is Running, no air is coming out of the vents OR defrost (I can't feel it there either) on ANY settings. So, correct me if I'm wrong but, the problem isn't necessarily the blend door. It could be an array of different things. BTW... I found the Vacuum Reservoir (that black softball looking globe) disconnected. After I plugged it back in....I'm still having the same problem.... "No air is coming out of any of the vents/defroster/floor etc" But...I can hear the blower motor running..

Any other suggestions (than having to cut open to get to the blend door) are MUCH APPRECIATED!!
Thanks in advance!
AE

You are correct. The problem is not initially the blend door. The blender does just that, it blends the warm and cool air to achieve the temperature that you desire. If it is broken you get either A/C or heat depending where the door is stuck but it doesn't stop air flow all together.

Sometimes though, the blend door can fall right off and plug the blower intake.
Check these out:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255262&highlight=flow+air+ducts

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=399193&highlight=blower+fan+air+flow

 

[artest7]

I can see the white actuator

I looked behind the glove box and saw, what looks like the white blend door actuator? Do you know how I can test to see if it works? I tried turning the controls on the EATC while the blower motor was going but couldn't really hear anything because of all the air noise. Which, by the way sounds like the blower motor is just blowing and hitting a blockage somewhere.
Thanks in advance!
AE

 

[tinkering]

I looked behind the glove box and saw, what looks like the white blend door actuator? Do you know how I can test to see if it works? I tried turning the controls on the EATC while the blower motor was going but couldn't really hear anything because of all the air noise. Which, by the way sounds like the blower motor is just blowing and hitting a blockage somewhere.
Thanks in advance!
AE

If I remember correctly, you can pull the actuator off by removing 4 small screws (some actuators are held on by spring clip things I think). It's not tooo bad of a job. The rear screw can be a rat. Use a 1/4" ratchet with a 8 mm socket. Finding the right length of extension is important. Hold it in place with your left fingers and go one click at a time and it will come out. It should eventually get loose enough to finish with finger force on the extension.

When you have the actuator off check to see if the drive moves when you change the dash settings. When putting it back on make sure the drive is in the 'correct' position. See this thread for explanation: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=314471&highlight=testing+actuator

When you get the actuator out of the way you can also check the blend door post. Is it there; has the door fallen? Can you turn it by hand? Is the part broken that mates with the actuator drive?
My hunch at this point is that the door has fallen, blocking the blower intake.

What year is your Explorer? Does it have manual A/C controls or the auto climate control? They take two different actuators I believe.

There are some self tests that can be done too. See this thread:http://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/eatcswap/selftest.html

Check these threads too if you are having trouble:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=318602&highlight=blend+door+actuator+test
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363184&highlight=blend+door+actuator+test

There are other existing threads on this too; just do a search.

 

[lorraine1]

just replaced my core for first time,the tough bolt was the easiest one for me ,there is a shortcut on that bolt,i took the big piece under the wiper cowl and moved it aside and no problem,there is a selector cable and a shift cable to take loose when doing this.the first time the thought is intimidating,but its really not that hard once youv'e done it once.

 

[tinkering]

just replaced my core for first time,the tough bolt was the easiest one for me ,there is a shortcut on that bolt,i took the big piece under the wiper cowl and moved it aside and no problem,there is a selector cable and a shift cable to take loose when doing this.the first time the thought is intimidating,but its really not that hard once youv'e done it once.

Thanks for that coaching lorraine1. I am still going to explore the idea of a short cut but if that doesn't prove out I will keep your encouraging info in mind. It might not be for awhile though because my leak turned out to be the lower intake gasket

 

[artest7]

Ok. I will try your suggestions and post my results. Thanks for all ur help so far "tinkering!"
BTW - It is a 2001 5.0L Eddie Bauer Explorer which I just finished replacing the blown subwoofer from the premium stock (MACH) stereo. Great Stereo BTW!

 

[tinkering]

Ok. I will try your suggestions and post my results. Thanks for all ur help so far "tinkering!"
BTW - It is a 2001 5.0L Eddie Bauer Explorer which I just finished replacing the blown subwoofer from the premium stock (MACH) stereo. Great Stereo BTW!

You are very welcome!
Your 2001 and my 1998 are '2nd Generation'.

I have an aftermarket stereo that a friend put in before I bought it. There is no subwoofer and that's OK with me; they make me feel like my heart is going to jump out of my throat.
Good stereos are still nice to have in a vehicle.

Have fun fixing your blower troubles. I am looking forward to finding out what the trouble was