Explorer won't start even when boosted | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Explorer won't start even when boosted

you might want to add a couple of ounces of Denatured Alcohol or 99%-100% Isopropyl Alcohol to full tank of fuel..
they both are a major ingredients of higher priced brand name gas dryers..

Do Not use Rubbing alcohol as it already has been saturated with water..
you will see 50%, 70%, & 90% Isopropyl Rubbing alcohol all of which have varying percentages of water added..

Does that alcohol prevent gas from freezing in the gas lines and gas tank? Thanks I will try to find some.

Just to get a comparative idea, -40C equates to -40F...and, that's damn cold! Your vehicle needs to be in top-top shape to start in that kind of weather. Just putting a battery tender isn't going to necessarily allow the vehicle to start. It will certainly help it to turn over, but I'm guessing your fuel line or fuel pump froze. I drove thru Calgary a year ago last October and don't recall if an ethanol blend gas is required? Here in MN, that is the case and it contains 10% ethanol (alcohol) minimum. Supposed to offer some protection against freeze-up, but some still add a gas treatment such as Seafoam to the tank at fill-up.

It's not often that it's this cold in Calgary. Last winter we didn't get temps this low. Im not sure if ethanol blend gas is required but from what I see, pretty much all the gas stations here have ethanol in their gas.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I'd recommend that you get an oil pan heater. Not the dipstick kind, but the kind that are a patch with adhesive on it that sticks to the bottom of your oil pan. I had a VW Diesel car for 10 years in Northern Illinois that I drove over most of the upper midwest for work. Most people know that diesels hate the cold and are really hard to start in the winter and won't even warm up if they are just left idling. I added the oil pan heater so that I wouldn't get stranded somewhere (and carried a long extension cord and found a plug at 99% of the hotels I stayed at). When I was at home I plugged the oil pan heater into a timer that turned it on 4 hours before I wanted to drive the car. It worked so well that I put another one on my 98 explorer as well.

The heater will heat up your oil pan and maintain the temp by shutting off if it goes above the designed temp. With the oil pan hot, it also heats up the block and entire engine compartment. I would come out some mornings and all the snow was melted off the hood of the the car. Not matter how cold it got the diesel and the explorer always started. Plus with the oil and engine warm you got the bonus of your heater already being warm.


keep your trickle charger on 24/7 and put the oil heater on a timer and unless your fuel lines are freezing toward the rear of the car you should be good to go as far as cold weather is concerned.

I will look into one of those oil pan heaters, thanks. How difficult are block heaters to install? Maybe get that instead? Just because I've heard mix results on the stick on ones that stick to your oil pan. I will likely just get one of the better rated ones on Amazon, they're $115CAD but better to buy it right and buy it once.
 






imo Seafoam is snake oil as it is mainly Oil, with White Gas and a smidge of Alcohol
Seafoam's MSDS listed ingredients
40-60% Pale Oil (CAS 64742-54-7),
25-35% Naphtha,
10-20% Isopropyl Alcohol "IPA".
https://www.greenpartstore.com/assets/images/bulletins/2011/seafoam_msds.pdf

Pale oil, a light machine oil sometimes used in electric grid transformers for cooling.. a lubricant
Naphtha aka white gas or Coleman lantern fuel, a solvent.
Isopropyl alcohol, a good gas dryer..


HEET® Gas Line Antifreeze Line is at least 100% Methanol
while

Iso-HEET® Gas Line Antifreeze is ≥75% Isopropyl alcohol and insignificant amount of Ethylbenzene

I use Denatured alcohol for starting kerosene pressure lanterns, gas dryer, fiberglass resin thinner, and medicinal purposes finding it quite handy to have around for far fewer $ than dedicated gas dryer..

Can you tell me which products you add to your gas tank in the winter? I checked amazon and all the Isopropyl Alcohol products are labelled as rubbing alcohol. And the other one is holy expensive. It's like pouring gold into the gas tank
 






Does that alcohol prevent gas from freezing in the gas lines and gas tank? Thanks I will try to find some.
I add Denatured alcohol, it seems sellers here have started restricting it's sales in US..
seeing Canadian prices shocks me too, seems y'all have heavy regulations on it..

searching Amazon CA I find 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol at a reasonable price
www.amazon.ca/dp/B0CP31633S
Walmart sells 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol as an electronics cleaner for a little less
www.walmart.ca/en/ip/2UTIFNF368KJ

Alcohol absorbs moisture lowering the freezing point of any water in the fuel..
all the gas dryers marketed relies on the absorption of water and ability to be burned along with the gasoline..
Pure alcohol freezes at -114°C (-173°F) being diluted with water raises the freezing point depending on the percentage of water alcohol mixture.. an ounce of alcohol diluted by a half ounce of water should lower water freezing point to about -50°C

Methanol aka Wood Alcohol is used by propane companies to absorb and allow the burning off of water that accumulates in propane tanks as that water tends to freeze up in the gas regulator cutting off gas flow. I've had to have propane company inject methanol into system a couple of times over the years here in Northern Nevada due to frozen propane gas regulator.. Truckers also use it in air lines to keep brakes from freezing up..

I'll agree with others who recommend installing engine heater, there are several types..
I've only used block heaters that installed in place of a freeze plug
there are oil pan heaters and radiator hose heaters
 






It has been -50C here the past few days but still, I have a battery charger plugged into the truck so that the battery stays charged in the morning. Anyways I tried starting it 2 days ago and it turns over fine but just won't start. Even tried boosting it with my Noco GB70, my own car and my neighbours booster pack that has 900CCA. It was a no go. My battery shows that the battery is fully charged.

Im thinking it's the alternator but the radio and lights and headlights turn on fine. And I was told that even if the alternator was bad, as long as the battery is fully charged, the truck will still start ...especially when boosted.

I've been waiting 2.5 days now for a tow and hopefully my tow through my road assistance coverage comes tomorrow. But I'm thinking now that perhaps it's the battery gone bad.

Any thoughts? Have any of you ever seen a car not start even when boosted from another car and a booster pack?
Do you have another key to try? On the off chance that maybe the chip malfunctioned.
 






I add Denatured alcohol, it seems sellers here have started restricting it's sales in US..
seeing Canadian prices shocks me too, seems y'all have heavy regulations on it..

searching Amazon CA I find 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol at a reasonable price
www.amazon.ca/dp/B0CP31633S
Walmart sells 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol as an electronics cleaner for a little less
www.walmart.ca/en/ip/2UTIFNF368KJ

Alcohol absorbs moisture lowering the freezing point of any water in the fuel..
all the gas dryers marketed relies on the absorption of water and ability to be burned along with the gasoline..
Pure alcohol freezes at -114°C (-173°F) being diluted with water raises the freezing point depending on the percentage of water alcohol mixture.. an ounce of alcohol diluted by a half ounce of water should lower water freezing point to about -50°C

Methanol aka Wood Alcohol is used by propane companies to absorb and allow the burning off of water that accumulates in propane tanks as that water tends to freeze up in the gas regulator cutting off gas flow. I've had to have propane company inject methanol into system a couple of times over the years here in Northern Nevada due to frozen propane gas regulator.. Truckers also use it in air lines to keep brakes from freezing up..

I'll agree with others who recommend installing engine heater, there are several types..
I've only used block heaters that installed in place of a freeze plug
there are oil pan heaters and radiator hose heaters

Thanks for this info. Mechanic suggested a block heater over an oil pan heater.

Do you have another key to try? On the off chance that maybe the chip malfunctioned.

Good point. I've been wanting to get another ignition key cut but I've yet to find a place who can do it on this truck.
 






Most lock and key places will cut you a key and they can program it as well

I order blanks on eBay
Get them cut at ace hardware
Then the local locksmith charges me $50 a key to program them when I bring him the master key. He will do two keys for $75
 






Block heater or some other suggested heating devices are an absolute must in that temperature. Being Canadian and having spent plenty of time in the Calgary region, I can attest to the cold. The cold is brutal when a bonafide Chinook wind rolls through and that is not commonly seen in most parts of North America, but I have witnessed it in Calgary several times in the last decade.

Good luck.
 






Do you have another key to try? On the off chance that maybe the chip malfunctioned.
If the chip malfunctioned the theft light would flash rapidly when trying to start it.
 






Most lock and key places will cut you a key and they can program it as well

I order blanks on eBay
Get them cut at ace hardware
Then the local locksmith charges me $50 a key to program them when I bring him the master key. He will do two keys for $75

I'm going to keep looking but I called one place and they said I had to come in to get a quote. I went in yesterday since I was in the area and the guy quoted me $4000CAD. He said it's only sold as a package and if he cuts the key, he has to program it too. No getting him to cut it then getting it programmed elsewhere.
 






That’s pretty sad, man. I have a friend who owns his own shop down here in Arizona and he’s cut me new keys with PATS enabled for just the cost of the key.
 






$4000 for a KEY?

Dude get the **** out of Canada.

Adding methanol or alcohol to your fuel simply hydrogen bonds to any water that may be sitting in the bottom. It makes everything miscible in the fuel…so the water molecules essentially dissolve into the gas with the help of the alcohol, and then your truck burns it off. Dry Gas/HEET/etc.

Block heaters are game changers. In some vehicles, extreme cold can shrink bearing clearances to zero, making it difficult or impossible to crank…and causing lots of wear on start.
 






$4000 for a KEY?

Dude get the **** out of Canada.

Adding methanol or alcohol to your fuel simply hydrogen bonds to any water that may be sitting in the bottom. It makes everything miscible in the fuel…so the water molecules essentially dissolve into the gas with the help of the alcohol, and then your truck burns it off. Dry Gas/HEET/etc.

Block heaters are game changers. In some vehicles, extreme cold can shrink bearing clearances to zero, making it difficult or impossible to crank…and causing lots of wear on start.
That’s gotta be a $400 typo.
 






If the theft light goes out while cranking then your key is working, just want to reiterate that
 






$4000 for a KEY?

Dude get the **** out of Canada.

Adding methanol or alcohol to your fuel simply hydrogen bonds to any water that may be sitting in the bottom. It makes everything miscible in the fuel…so the water molecules essentially dissolve into the gas with the help of the alcohol, and then your truck burns it off. Dry Gas/HEET/etc.

Block heaters are game changers. In some vehicles, extreme cold can shrink bearing clearances to zero, making it difficult or impossible to crank…and causing lots of wear on start.

Sorry $400CAD. Still a rip off. Anyways a friend suggested I check out a Ford dealer here and they said they will do it for $190CAD ($90 for the key and $100 for the programming). Should I just pay it and do it? It still seems a bit high but I doubt I will find a better price in the city.

If the theft light goes out while cranking then your key is working, just want to reiterate that

That makes sense. The main reason why I want to get another ignition key cut is because if my current one were to ever break, I'm screwed. 27 years of wear and tear on the same key.
 






Yes much cheaper to get a spare key now then wait until you lose it!
 






It has been -50C here the past few days but still, I have a battery charger plugged into the truck so that the battery stays charged in the morning. Anyways I tried starting it 2 days ago and it turns over fine but just won't start. Even tried boosting it with my Noco GB70, my own car and my neighbours booster pack that has 900CCA. It was a no go. My battery shows that the battery is fully charged.

Im thinking it's the alternator but the radio and lights and headlights turn on fine. And I was told that even if the alternator was bad, as long as the battery is fully charged, the truck will still start ...especially when boosted.

I've been waiting 2.5 days now for a tow and hopefully my tow through my road assistance coverage comes tomorrow. But I'm thinking now that perhaps it's the battery gone bad.

Any thoughts? Have any of you ever seen a car not start even when boosted from another car and a booster pack?
No, but I'd sure plug in my block heater!
 






Yes much cheaper to get a spare key now then wait until you lose it!

I've never lost a car key before, just very careful.

Im just going to get it done at my Ford dealer for $190CAD. Also really considering getting my radiator replaced with a new one. The K seal is only going to last so long again. The first bottle last almost a year but the second bottle I think may be wearing off. Hate having to check my coolant every couple weeks. I figured maybe I just replace the radiator and call it a day (have a small crack in my rad).

Looking on Rock Auto for radiators and the prices aren't bad. Is there a certain brand to go for on rads?
 






I've had good luck with Spectra Premium parts, I believe a lot of their components are actually manufactured in Canada. That being said, you may also be able to get a business like Performance Radiator (down in the US) to rod out your existing core (if it's in good shape and reusable) and replace the end tanks. Depends where the radiator is leaking from. In Canada, I would look at NAPA for a good quality part as well.

If you Google a bit you may be able to find a full aluminum radiator for the truck, including the end tanks. I've not quite honed into this yet, but I recall it being an option via eBay ONLY. Not sure how I feel about that, so haven't taken the plunge yet.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I've had good luck with Spectra Premium parts, I believe a lot of their components are actually manufactured in Canada. That being said, you may also be able to get a business like Performance Radiator (down in the US) to rod out your existing core (if it's in good shape and reusable) and replace the end tanks. Depends where the radiator is leaking from. In Canada, I would look at NAPA for a good quality part as well.

If you Google a bit you may be able to find a full aluminum radiator for the truck, including the end tanks. I've not quite honed into this yet, but I recall it being an option via eBay ONLY. Not sure how I feel about that, so haven't taken the plunge yet.

Thanks. Is full aluminum radiators better? Napa here is a rip off, they will charge at least $600 for a rad. From what I know the crack is on the drivers side bottom. It's not a big crack but it's been there since I bought the truck in 2019.

Or I can just put another bottle of K seal in the tank when this current one starts to wear off some more. I checked the coolant this morning and I had to top it off about a cup or so to get it back up to the neck. So that tells me the K seal is likely wearing off and will need another one soon. I have a new bottle in my glove box.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top