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fan blower only works on turbo...

markjpears

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City, State
Towcester
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 explorer
hello all. I have a 98 ex and the fan now only works on turbo..i have been told this might be the resistors, am i right in thinking that the fan unit is under the dash on the passengers side? and can i get a replacement resistor unit or can i solder some new ones in?
ta very much like..
Mark>>
:cool:
 



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heater reostat

hi mark
the blower motor is in the engine compartment on the rear bulkhead passenger side. the resistor pack in below the motor and held in with 2 small bolts. the connections tend to rust away i would try moving the collector about it may be just a dodge connection . cheers chris
 






lovely, thanks will have a look tomorrow.
cheers Chris.
Mark>>
 






I bought another "resistor pack" from Chris and will be fitting it this weekend....hopefully.

Driving lamp has been fitted mate, and is fine. Thanks

Mike
 






I bought another "resistor pack" from Chris and will be fitting it this weekend....hopefully.

Driving lamp has been fitted mate, and is fine. Thanks

Mike

I will be fitting mine also , and flushing the rad/changing antifreeze too.
Lovely!
 






Never got to the fan speed yet, managed to flush rad..........still have the problem of not getting to temperature! cabin heat is much improved from before, but temp guage goes just 5mm over first line and no further- going to short the sensor later and see if it goes to top- least I will know if its faulty.
Going next for the fan speed after that.
 






hi
my temp guage had never made it up to the cold mark for the 6 months i have owned it.so on friday i changed the thermostat and now needle sits right in the middle and i have heat in the car.this is great for the winter but now it wont go to cold . looks like i will be changing the blender door before the summer. cheers chris
 






Never got to the fan speed yet, managed to flush rad..........still have the problem of not getting to temperature! cabin heat is much improved from before, but temp guage goes just 5mm over first line and no further- going to short the sensor later and see if it goes to top- least I will know if its faulty.
Going next for the fan speed after that.

Damn- still have problems- burped the system, getting all the air out of it,(as far as I can tell, cabin heat is really hot- good, it was only warm before, I have changed the thermostate also, even more improvement, so maybe my old one was not stuck at all. Now I am suspecting the sensor is at fault, as driving around for half an hour and letting it idle, the guage just slightly passes the cold mark.
I suspect that the sensor is at fault- so does this mean that ecu is getting wrong onfo and I AM RUNNING rich?
I really think the engine is running to temp as the heat inside is as good as it gets, I know this is my explorer number 2.
So what are your thoughts on this guys- should I ignore guage readings, as driving is fine, starting is fine, idle is fine, heat is great in cabin, all hoses get hot and top of radiator also?
Guage problem or not?

One thing I did note along time ago, the needle on guage hangs down south when off and when starting, the range of movement it goes through to make the reading just above cold- is enough to make the middle of guage if needle was resting on the start line at 9 o clock?
 






The guage sensor and the ECU temp sensors are different, so if the guage is now correct, you can test the ECU temp sensor when the engine is up to temp to see if the ECU sensor has the correct resistance (I think the values are in the Haynes Manual for this)
 






The resistor pack never really dies, it just gets rusty at the connector. They are nothing but coils and should last forever. Taking a small files to your harness and connector and re joining usually cleans it up. I worked on a couple of posts and then 3-4 speeds came back, I cleaned up all the posts and harness and all came back.
 






Great thanks, keep wanting to have a look at the resistors, but working 6days aweek at the moment! are they easy to get to? should i take the whole fan unit out or can i access the resistor pack with out major dismantling?
 






you can remove the resistor unit with the fan in position, small hands are a big benefit (I inhereted my fathers 'dock yard hands')

a small mirror is useful to see the heads of the bolts (self tapping screws with 8mm Hex heads). I also found that pulling off the rubber drain spout gives easier access
 






i cut a hole in the plastic inner wing shield with a Stanly knife to access the resistor pack .then fix a cover with screws for easy access next time as there will be a next time.cheers chris
 






haha thanks guys, and am i right in thinking that its in the engine compartment on the passengers side? Chris did you take the wheel off fist then?
 






yes its in the engine bay left hand side if right hand drive. i did remove the wheel. cheers chris
 






Not sure if this is different on a North Face but I found it really easy on my 98 after watching the 1AAuto video on Youtube. The only difference there is ours is on the other saide and we have less kit to remove.

All I did was unbolt a small gizmo frmo the inner wing amd move it out of the way. Then you unbolt the fan assembly (4 screws at 2-4-8 and 10 o'clock) and you've got great access. The 8 o'clock screw doesn't usually have to come right our as the housings are often slotted.

My connector was well knackered since it had put a lot of heat into the return connection as the supply connections deteriorated. In the UK, you'll be lucky to save the resistor pack and it's hardly worth buggering about with. It's not just the rusty blades that fail - where the resistor legs are crimped into the other end of the blade, contact there deteriorates too and when it does, it's bound for the bin! If they were crimped enough to form a cold weld or silver soldered from new, it wouldn't happen.

I fitted a new resistor pack courtesy of the good Mr Quelch and I now have all speeds back!

Now (like Chris) it's just a matter of the blend door but unfortunately my 1/4 drive ratchet slipped over the back of the heater box when I started undoing it so.............
 






Never got to the fan speed yet, managed to flush rad..........still have the problem of not getting to temperature! cabin heat is much improved from before, but temp guage goes just 5mm over first line and no further- going to short the sensor later and see if it goes to top- least I will know if its faulty.
Going next for the fan speed after that.

Interesting one this - my temperature is all over the place and since December I've been runing a half a rad sized piece of cardboard to get it warm! Might sound daft but do you know if you've actually got a thermostat in place> I haven't looked yet but I don't think I have.

How's your hand doing by the way? Still hold a stick I hope??
 






Yeah mate- just, the guitar has been harder, least till I made this!
http://spirittips.yolasite.com/

I am in the middle of working on 3 tips for a guy who lost, them in a saw mistake, and 4 for a young chap with a terrible skin problem on his hands.
Feel great being able to help other people with problems as I experianced.
PLease help me spread the word- I nearly gave up guitar and felt so messed up b4 I made this fix.
 






Hi Chris and thanks for the great advice. i cut a flap in the wheel plastic and found the resistor pack, it looks nothing like the one in my haines maual, its knackered and the plug that goes on to the pack is burnt out too, but i can fix that, i am a sparky so will probably just fit new crimp lugs and seal it up. i was wondering if you had a resistor pack and how much they cost etc etc.
speak soon, take care
Mark>>
 



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hi mark
sorry all resistor packs sold seems like big demand now its cold.
but i am going to usa next week and am going to bring back some new ones .cheers chris
 






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