Favorite Sub? (Which is better?) | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Favorite Sub? (Which is better?)

icu400

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City, State
Austin, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
'95 XLT
Well, it has been a few weeks now with my sony 10's, and I like them. But I am looking for something a bit better. I listen to pretty much everything from rap, to classic rock, and even some willy nelson ever so often :p So basicaly I am looking for something to add a bit more bang but with a focus on clarity. My amp is a sony mono amp that puts out about 250 rms. Its the newest sony amp so I don't think it is overestimated much at all. So as far as power goes, I am trying to keep it between 200 and 300 watts rms.

So, here are my prime suspects:

Rockford Fosgate Stage 2 10" (These have a low mount depth but only 1 voice coil)

Alpine Type R (DVC, but sort of deep)

JL Audio w3v2 (DVC, pretty shallow, most expensive)

Any others I should check out?

The new subs will be put into 2 stealthboxes that I am going to start work on within a few weeks. I want to decide what I am going to upgrade to before then, if I will upgrade at all, because the box will need to be tailored to that sub. They have to be 10's because thats all I have room for (and I don't like 8's).

I realize that this is something of an opinion request, but if yall can tell me any practical knowledge about which works better, is more clear, that sort of thing, I would appreciate it.

Peace
 



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you should look at the image dynamics ID or the id Q if you have that kinda money. the id goes for around 130 and the Q goes for like 180ish depending on where you go....these subs sound awsome and have great sound quality. definitly will stomp your sony's .....you could always spring for a single id max....but then you wouldnt have enough power to run it.
 






Well since you asked for "opinions", I have one. The Boston Accoustics ProSeries subs are very, very clean hitting subs. I am not sure if they are the cleanest hitting subs, but they hold there own. A little pricey, but worth there money in the end. Some of these guys that go around to the audio shows are probably more knowledgeable than myself, but I would bet that the Boston's are in the top 5 of subs as far as quality of sound. As far as JL's go, overpriced for what you get. Seem to be the hottest sub going, but IMHO Boston's sound better than JL's when compared apples to apples.

Best of luck to ya on your selection. Take lots of pics and share them with all of us on your install. Some subs sound better ported than others, so make sure you know what you want to build before buying the sub.
 






And in my opinion, I favor anything JL Audio. But then again, I perfer bass on the lower end of the scale (<60hz), which JL supplies a whole heap of.

You are going to get about 3 million "opinions" from this thread, which are really not going to do much but confuse you. You have a list of good quality subs there, so at this point its all about what YOU like. Check the specs on each one of those and compare. For example, if you want a a sub that's an spl monster look for one with a high xmax and a high RMS power capability. If you want a sub that hits low, look for a low FS (resonant frequency). If you want a sub that doesnt require a lot of power, look for one with a high SPL@ 1w/1m(sensitivity rating). There are many factors when comparing subwoofers, but the best advice that i can give is compare specs, then go listen. Good luck.
 






IDQs and JLs are very nice subs, but go listen for yourself. If I were you I would get rid of the Sony Amp as well. Maybe try Crossfire, JL, Alpine, JBL, Tru, Phoenix Gold to name a few.
 






The amp is something that I might upgrade later, but for now it does what I need it to do with a low THD rating. I could spend the same price for a new amp as I would for 2 new JL subs, so that is a tad lower on my list of possible upgrades.

Thank you for your post Fhant, that is sort of what I was looking for as far as what those sort of specs mean and what to look for. Thanks
 






icu400 said:
Thank you for your post Fhant, that is sort of what I was looking for as far as what those sort of specs mean and what to look for. Thanks

Anytime man. If you have any other questions, feel free to pm me here and Ill give you my yahoo id.
 












If you're looking for something that fits in a very small box, and is supposed to have very good sound quality, you might want to check out the eD 11Kv2. Right now they have a pre order going on for $80 per sub (scheduled to start shipping sub the first part of July). They are calling out a power handling range of 150 to 500 watts RMS and a recomended sealed box volume of 0.4 to 0.6 cubic feet. Sounds like it will be a great sub, but not to many people have heard them yet since they haven't went to production with them yet. Plus you get a 3 year transferable warranty with them. Here's a link to them if you want to check them out:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/kv2.htm
 






icu400, I did a quick search on Thiele-Small Parameters and this is what I came up with. I'm not sure if it's acurate or not, so take it for what it's worth.

B
Magnetic flux density in gap, in Tesla-meters (TM)

BL
The magnetic strength of the motor structure.

C
Propagation velocity of sound at STP, approx. 342 m/s

Cas
Acoustical equivalent of Cms

Cmes
The electrical capacitive equivalent of Mms, in farads

Cms
The driver's mechanical compliance (reciprocal of stiffness), in m/N

D
Effective diameter of driver, in meters

F3
-3 dB cutoff frequency, in Hz

Fb
Enclosure resonance (usually for bass reflex systems), in Hz

Fc
System resonance (usually for sealed box systems), in Hz

Fs
Driver free air resonance, in Hz. This is the point at which driver impedance is maximum.

L
length of wire immersed in magnetic field, in meters

Lces
The electrical inductive equivalent of Cms, in henries

L
Length of wire immersed in magnetic field, in meters

Ms
The total moving mass of the loudspeaker cone.

Mmd
Diaphram mass, in grams

Mms
The driver's effective mechanical mass (including air load), in kg

n0
The reference efficiency of the system (eta sub 0) dimensionless, usually expressed as %

p
(rho) Density of air at STP 1.18 kg/m^3

Pa
Acoustical power

Pe
Electrical power

Q
The relative damping of a loudspeaker

Qa
The system's Q at Fb, due to absorption losses; dimensionless

Qec
The system's Q at resonance (Fc), due to electrical losses; dimensionless

Qes
The driver's Q at resonance (Fs), due to electrical losses; dimensionless

Ql
The system's Q at Fb, due to leakage losses; dimensionless

Qmc
The system's Q at resonance (Fc), due to mechanical losses; dimensionless

Qms
The driver's Q at resonance (Fs), due to mechanical losses; dimensionless

Qp
The system's Q at Fb, due to port losses (turbulence, viscousity, etc.); dimensionless

Qtc
The system's Q at resonance (Fc), due to all losses; dimensionless

Qts
The driver's Q at resonance (Fs), due to all losses; dimensionless

R
Ripple, in dB

Ras
Acoustical equivalent of Rms

Res
The electrical resistive equivalent of Rms, in ohms

Revc
DC voice coil resistance, in ohms

Rg
Amplifier source resistance (includes leads, crossover, etc.), in ohms

Rms
The driver's mechanical losses, in kg/s

Sd
Effective piston radiating area of driver, in square meters

SPLo
Sound Pressure Level, usually measured at 1 watt, at 1 meter in front of the loudspeaker

Vas
"Equivalent volume of compliance", this is a volume of air whose compliance is the same as a driver's acoustical compliance Cms (q.v.), in cubic meters

Vd
Maximum linear volume of displacement of the driver (product of Sd times Xmax), in cubic meters.

Xmax
Maximum peak linear excursion of driver, in meters
 






Wow, thanks dude, that should help a bit. (One of the reasons I was looking for opinions was that when I was looking at the specs I just saw a screen of numbers, lol)
 


















I think and a lot of other people thing KICKER SUBS are the best. I have not met another sub that is better then mine.
 






To each his own. The kickers I have heard were a lot more bang than they were clear, but that could have just been the model I heard or the way the guy had it set up. At this point I am just running some numbers and in a week or two I will go visit a few shops.
 






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