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Followed the 5r55e rebuild diary but still have code

Glacier991

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I do sell VB's, or do yours. My guarantee is a simple one. So long as you have clean fluid, if the VB does not fix your problem return it and all you pay is my shipping cost. That simple.

At the moment I may need a little more time since my current stock is more or less all cores that need some TLC and time from me, and I have been in short supply of that.
 



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ff2024

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What all do you do to the VB and can you give me an estimate?

Thanks
 






Glacier991

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I put in the superior shift kit, the boost valve upgrade, the FORD mod and new sep plate... I check all the solenoids and usually recommend a new EPC (additional at cost).

I have done well over a dozen with one comeback.

PM me for more details.
 






BillJ

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I think the jury is out on installing the EPC riser. I installed it on my truck the second time I went in. It can be disconnected easily (may try this on next filter change).

As far as the 733 code. The way I understand it (please, others correct me if I'm off base) the PCM has known good shift parameters (based on all the sensor inputs) when a shift point is outside of tolerance it trys to apply a code (reason) for the problem. Shift solenoids are a two wire arrangement (only power applied) and there are no sensors to detect if the SS opened or closed fully. I think it is easier to say that the solenoid failed instead of valve "X" in Bore "Y" failed to close off port "n" resulting in a delay shift. Basically there can be many reasons other then the SS being bad.

One thing you may try if the SS test OK is to switch SS3 with another SS and see if your symptom changes since they are all the same.

In looking at the following chart and your symptom (delayed 2nd gear) SS3 is engaged for the first time for the 2nd gear shift.
 

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ff2024

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That's what I was going to try if all the SS tested good. I plan on testing the SS's a few times just to make sure.
 






ff2024

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How can I tell in the Front band is broken?
 






Glacier991

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drop the pan. You may find band parts.... but can look up and see the anchor and apply points.
 






ff2024

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When I did the VB I didnt' see any band parts in th pan...so hopefully I'm good there. I'll still check out the anchor and apply points.
 






Glacier991

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I'm thinking you are too. Retorque the VB while you are in there.
 






ff2024

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Since I just did the VB upgrade ( I think I might add the Sonnax end plugs now) and I have hardly driven my truck at all since. If I take out the VB again can I reuse the new bonded separator plate I just put int?
 






je5

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ff2024 said:
Since I just did the VB upgrade ( I think I might add the Sonnax end plugs now) and I have hardly driven my truck at all since. If I take out the VB again can I reuse the new bonded separator plate I just put int?
You should be able to reuse it. Just look to see if the gasket tears. Good fortune. :thumbsup:
 






Wrench

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I for one would not reuse the VB gaskets again as this is a know problem area. To me that would be like reusing head gaskets and expecting them to reseal. Once you compress the gasket material it will not return to its original thickness so sealing ability is compromised. But if you like playing Russian roulett and love ATF be my guest.
 






Glacier991

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While I think Wrench is one of the most knowledgeable posters and advice offerors on this board, in this case I may respectfully disagree. (Though I acknowledge the accuracy of his info in a more general sense).

He is right, gaskets are all about squish, normally.... in this case we are talking about 2 gaskets out of hard paper, .011 to .014 thick.... squeezed under the pressure of... 100 INCH lbs? The greater fear to my mind is heat hardening. If they are pretty fresh, *I* think reuse is ok. And I am like the nick picking little old lady. I replace ANYTHING mildly suspect. Just my view.

And I meant what I said about Wrench... when you see him post, listen. Just this once we disagree. Kinda.
 






Glacier991

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And ff2024 I am still trying to figure out how to cost out a 5R VB bore out. The tools are a sunk cost.... and the replacement parts are not cheap. BUT!...Once I bore out ANY VB bore with a reamer,as a result of that operation the entire VB is contaminated, unless you can clean everything thoroughly.... so... ideally you only bore a naked VB - eg. empty of all spools etc.

My quandry is how to price out a total tear down, bore out rebulid, versus a new one (you CAN still buy new 5R VB's for about $525 - no upgrades.)

Add to that questions about solenoids and the cost of replacing them..... ..anyway...I'm working it out. Add the cost of shift kit upgrades and all and it isn't easy.

Limited market anyway. Very few people want the level of attention I put in my tranmission or VB rebuilds... or want to pay for it anyway.
 






ff2024

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Well, I have been driving my truck and everything seems to shift fine but every once in a while i get a hard 1 to 2 shift. My light comes on but when I took it to the tranny shop to get the code read it shows no code stored (a very reputable tranny shop I might add) so now I'm at a total loss.

Glacier, is it possible to use a reamer more than once on these applications?

Thanks
 






BrooklynBay

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If the bore is reamed out to a certain size, and you use the same reamer again, it won't make the bore bigger unless you use a larger reamer. It's like drilling a hole with a 1/4" drill bit. If you put the bit into a 1/4" hole, it will still be 1/4". Why would you want to ream it out again, unless you feel it wasn't done correctly the first time?
 






ff2024

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I got you on that Brooklyn, I meant boring out a few VB's with the reamer. How long will the reamer stay within spec? I know this is hard to judge but I was looking for a round about number.
 






BrooklynBay

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A good quality tool shouldn't get shaven down too quickly. The valve bodies are only aluminum. The tool is probably some sort of steel. I'm not exactly sure what kind of metal it is, but it wouldn't be made out of soft aluminum. Drill bits are made out of steel, but have various coatings like titanium, cobalt, or sometimes even diamond.
 






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