rrbaud
New Member
- Joined
- April 4, 2006
- Messages
- 5
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- City, State
- Johnson City, TN
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1997 Explorer Sport SOHC
Well I finally was able to complete the rebuild on all parts listed in the diary including ford kit (separator, gaskets, etc), superior kit, sonnax boost valve, new drain plug, EPC solenoid, new Ford bracket for solenoids. (The gaskets were 2L5P-7D100-BA AND 2L5P-7D100-AA ford parts network). 97 sohc
My symptoms: If accelerating, after warmup, (very slowly) the transmission would slip on the 2-3 shift, I had to shift manually when it would happen often, or apply more gas to raise the rpm's when accelerating away from a stop. Slow reverse symptom also.
After a 10 and 25 mile test drive everything works as it should. Very satisfied and relieved, no more manual shifting or letting off the gas to catch up.
I have a few questions about a few things:
I was going to tighten the bands and after inspecting the intermediate band through the small opening with the VB removed I found what appeared to be a hairline crack. I couldn't get my finger to it but with a small screwdriver I could feel something that felt like a crack. Not sure. I took a picture for future reference. I was feeling a bit down because I thought I had done everything for nothing and that the symptoms would still be there. Needless to say I am treating the transmission like a cracked egg now and not stressing it. I would recommend inspecting this before playing with the band adjustment.
I couldn't remove the coast clutch end plug to get to the replacement valve in the superior kit, anyone else have this problem? Appeared to be catching on the inner part of the groove.
On the superior kit step 3: forward modulator valve spring replacement for the heavy duty mode. If you use the ford kit this places the spring against the screen. I decided against doing it. Anyone do this?
The new bracket from Ford: When I put in the new EPC solenoid it seemed to be somewhat looser than the old one. I bent the tangs on the bracket to hold everything against the VB. It just seemed that everything was too loose on each solenoid so I carefully bent each tang to hold them tightly against the VB. Anyone else see this?
I would recommend checking each valve spool to make sure it moves freely. I found that the plug on the end of the reverse modulation valve was sticking. This was the only one. I took it down a bit with 1500 sand paper. It didn't take much.
On a 4x4 sohc: Definitely remove the cat pipe on the driver side. For the oxygen sensor I just replaced not too long ago I twisted the wires up from the sensor to get it out without remove the electrical plug. It was a big hassle to remove a few months back. My manifold bolts on the pipe were rusted somewhat. Use penetrating oil (I used alum. tapping fluid, my choice) heat them up with a propane torch before removing. Remove the LF wheel and access cover in the wheelwell. On the catpipe portion use a six point impact socket. If you don't want the hassle of all this go to a muffler shop and have them at least loosen them and replace if necessary, use antiseize. I recommend doing all this before taking on the VB rebuild so everything goes smoother.
I put the drain plug in the center of the sump portion at the lowest part of the pan. I put a bunch of thick grease (about 1/2" thick) in the pan and with the filter in place I found the center of the sump and drilled the hole for the drain plug there. I measured about 10mm clearance filter sump to pan. It is almost dead center of the depression in the pan so you could just use that.
Thanks to all for the posts and diary, it helped out a lot.
Rodney, 97 sohc sport
My symptoms: If accelerating, after warmup, (very slowly) the transmission would slip on the 2-3 shift, I had to shift manually when it would happen often, or apply more gas to raise the rpm's when accelerating away from a stop. Slow reverse symptom also.
After a 10 and 25 mile test drive everything works as it should. Very satisfied and relieved, no more manual shifting or letting off the gas to catch up.
I have a few questions about a few things:
I was going to tighten the bands and after inspecting the intermediate band through the small opening with the VB removed I found what appeared to be a hairline crack. I couldn't get my finger to it but with a small screwdriver I could feel something that felt like a crack. Not sure. I took a picture for future reference. I was feeling a bit down because I thought I had done everything for nothing and that the symptoms would still be there. Needless to say I am treating the transmission like a cracked egg now and not stressing it. I would recommend inspecting this before playing with the band adjustment.
I couldn't remove the coast clutch end plug to get to the replacement valve in the superior kit, anyone else have this problem? Appeared to be catching on the inner part of the groove.
On the superior kit step 3: forward modulator valve spring replacement for the heavy duty mode. If you use the ford kit this places the spring against the screen. I decided against doing it. Anyone do this?
The new bracket from Ford: When I put in the new EPC solenoid it seemed to be somewhat looser than the old one. I bent the tangs on the bracket to hold everything against the VB. It just seemed that everything was too loose on each solenoid so I carefully bent each tang to hold them tightly against the VB. Anyone else see this?
I would recommend checking each valve spool to make sure it moves freely. I found that the plug on the end of the reverse modulation valve was sticking. This was the only one. I took it down a bit with 1500 sand paper. It didn't take much.
On a 4x4 sohc: Definitely remove the cat pipe on the driver side. For the oxygen sensor I just replaced not too long ago I twisted the wires up from the sensor to get it out without remove the electrical plug. It was a big hassle to remove a few months back. My manifold bolts on the pipe were rusted somewhat. Use penetrating oil (I used alum. tapping fluid, my choice) heat them up with a propane torch before removing. Remove the LF wheel and access cover in the wheelwell. On the catpipe portion use a six point impact socket. If you don't want the hassle of all this go to a muffler shop and have them at least loosen them and replace if necessary, use antiseize. I recommend doing all this before taking on the VB rebuild so everything goes smoother.
I put the drain plug in the center of the sump portion at the lowest part of the pan. I put a bunch of thick grease (about 1/2" thick) in the pan and with the filter in place I found the center of the sump and drilled the hole for the drain plug there. I measured about 10mm clearance filter sump to pan. It is almost dead center of the depression in the pan so you could just use that.
Thanks to all for the posts and diary, it helped out a lot.
Rodney, 97 sohc sport
