How to: Ford 4R55E Transmission removal & installation instructions.

[drdoom]

I think this may help access to the harmonic balancer. Raven, when I did my transmission R&R, I did not do anything to the shroud, as I was able to use a deep impact socket w/ breaker bar to turn the crank. Very minimal clearance though. YMMV

 

[Itchybruno47]

New guy here...

Hey all...debating dropping the tranny all together or just trying to pop it back enough to re and re the Flexplate and possibly the torque converter depending on what it looks like when I get to them. My questions is this...never pulled a tranny, but have been reading about it for a few days now....can anyone give me an instruction list like the two in this thread, but for specifically a 93 XLT Exploder, 4x4 4 door, with air 4.0 OHV???? and does anyone have any good picture links?? just so I can see some sh*t for reference sake when I get into it??

EDIT Could I also get a bare bones (even McGyver) list of what tools / socket sizes etc etc I will need for this?
Any one have any opinion on gettin a scrapper tranny and just swapping them out? WOuld that be easier than swapping out the flexplate?? (if that is what is making the racket when I get in there)
Thanks ahead,
IB

 

[Bruces expo]

Hey all...debating dropping the tranny all together or just trying to pop it back enough to re and re the Flexplate and possibly the torque converter depending on what it looks like when I get to them. My questions is this...never pulled a tranny, but have been reading about it for a few days now....can anyone give me an instruction list like the two in this thread, but for specifically a 93 XLT Exploder, 4x4 4 door, with air 4.0 OHV???? and does anyone have any good picture links?? just so I can see some sh*t for reference sake when I get into it?? Thanks ahead,
IB

Here are some pics of the underside of truck In The link ,

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373249

 

[Itchybruno47]

I may be retarded....

OK...first off, thanks for the link ..I think i just had a realization based on that pic. The whole time I have been under the impression that the flexplate and the torque converter are actually attached to the transmission, but this pic, if I am seeing it right shows the tranny gone outta the way and then the flexplate on the back end of the engine??? Sorry if these are shiyte questions..I am starting to think I have been reading about this a little too much the last few....
Thanks
IB

EDIT
Torque converter on tranny / flexplate on engine, hence don't take the tranny out with the torque converter attached to the flexplate??? Clearly I need some guidance here.....

 

[Bruces expo]

Your seeing whats been laid down , You will need to rotate the motor by a Big flat head screw driver to get to all 4 TC nuts , If you unbolt the Torque converter before you try to remove the trans you will be fine , As long as you pay attention you will be fine !

 

[Itchybruno47]

Much appreciated man.. things just got a little more clear..clear enough for me to stop the research tonight and enjoy the Whiskey!!
IB

 

[Bruces expo]

No problem , That's why I like this site !!

 

[Itchybruno47]

So am I right in realizing the flexplate is actually attached to the engine, and the torque converter is attached to the tranny as well as the flexplate via the four bolts??

Here is what I have so far:
1)Kill the battery neg cable,
2)ditch the starter,
3 ditch the back drive shaft,
4 unbolt tranny from tranny hangar (or whatever it's called at the rear of the tranny holding it up,
5 ditch and plug tranny cooler lines,
5.5 disconnect shift linkage (automatic), (do I need to mark where this sits so that it will align back up when I put the beast back together?
6 disconnect "electrical component" on side of tranny (speed sensor or....?),
7 back off bellhouse bolts holding tranny to rear of engine,
8 back tranny away from engine enough to get to torque converter bolts,
9 remove (four?) torque converter bolts, bolting TC to flexplate,
-to rotate the engine to get at these bolts, could i ditch the serpentine belt and throw a strap wrench on the main crank pulley and rotate that way? I am not clear on the giant flat head screwdriver deal,
10 jack tranny up till it just clears the hangar at the rear of the tranny,
11 ditch tranny hangar / support at rear,
12 rubber glove over drive shaft end of tranny to catch the slop that I assume will come out of there when it comes down,
13 with tranny weight ALL on jack, remove all bellhouse to engine bolts,

??? this is where it gets foggy for me....not clear on how the tranny and torque converter come off the rear of the engine...
do i just pull the trtanny straight back and the torque converter comes off with it? then it is just a matter of lowering the tranny without dumping it on its side?????


ALSO: I know somewhere in there before i really mess with **** I am supposed to mark the relation of a bunch of things to each other so that **** goes back together proper.....where and when do I do that??

Never dropped a tranny before so thanks ahead for the patience..
EDIT.......starting to get to the "excited to try my first tranny drop" phase vs the "oh ****, now I have to learn how to pull the tranny" phase!!


Any and all input welcome here guys!!
IB

 

[Bruces expo]

You leave the trans Attached to motor before you remove the 4 Torque converter nuts , To spin the Motor you can Take All Spark plugs out and it will spin over Allot easier than with them in , To spin them Motor over to get to the 4 TC nuts you can Either use a Flat head on the Teeth of the flexplate , Or just Spin the crankshaft by hand after the plugs are removed ! , Other than that Your Pretty much spot on !

 

[Itchybruno47]

I lied. Now that you put me back to the pics, it is NOT the first I have heard about the engine support. Thanks for that.

Once I have the beast out, does anyone have any advice on the smartest way to remove the flexplate?? IF this is what is making all the noise, will it be apparent that it is the flex plate or the torque converter? I have used a stethoscope, dowel in the ear, cup to the ear ad all the noise is coming from the bellhousing, the front section of it. Does it seem likely that this could be my problem(s)??

Revised step list...

Front end on ramps, back end on axle stands, E BRAKE

1)Kill the battery neg cable,
2)ditch the starter,
3.1) label plug wires, remove from plugs, pull plugs,
3.2) MARK relations and ditch the back drive shaft,
3.3) Remove the FOUR torque converter bolts, holding TC to flexplate. Spin engine by hand from main crank or use fatty flatty screwdriver to spin flexplate by its teeth
4 ditch and plug tranny cooler lines,

5.5 disconnect shift linkage (automatic), (do I need to mark where this sits so that it will align back up when I put the beast back together?

6 disconnect "electrical component" on side of tranny (speed sensor or....?),
7 unbolt tranny from tranny hangar (or whatever it's called) at the rear of the tranny holding it up,
10 jack tranny up till it just clears the hangar at the rear of the tranny,
11 ditch tranny hangar / support at rear,
12 rubber glove over drive shaft end of tranny to catch the slop that I assume will come out of there when it comes down,
13 SUPPORT ENGINE TOP AND BOTTOM
13 with tranny weight ALL on jack, remove all bellhouse to engine bolts,
14 slide tranny with torque converter straight back and away from engine, and lower to ground without smashing it.



Thanks again to anyone who can throw some knowledge at my face...
IB

 

[Bruces expo]

I did not mark anything When I removed my first time, But I Did mark the Driveshafts , other than That I don't Know if its a Problem or not , The Torque converter studs will come right off when you pull the trans back as long as your motor and trans are both supported you should be fine !

 

[Itchybruno47]

I did not mark anything When I removed my first time, But I Did mark the Driveshafts , other than That I don't Know if its a Problem or not , The Torque converter studs will come right off when you pull the trans back as long as your motor and trans are both supported you should be fine !

This is the first I have heard about supporting the motor??
I was under the impression that if i threw the truck up on ramps at the front, and axle stands at the back I could just lower the tranny out once i figured out how to disconnect it...why does the engine need supporting? Is it not held tight by the motor mounts??

 

[Bruces expo]

The motor will fall backwards towards the firewall and the Intake will Hit the Firewall ,

Mine has a 3" Body lift so the Body Sits Higher than yours , but you can get the Point

 

[Itchybruno47]

Link to new thread continuing off me starting this old dead thread up again...

Here is where I started the new thread regarding my resurrection of this dead / solved thread...
Come on over Bruce!! haha
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3066832#post3066832

 

[Napu(StrongWave)]

Anyone know the torque specs for tranny bolts to engine??

 

[Hotrodmk8]

It depends on what engine,here is a few 4r70w 37-50 ftlbs ,5r55e 30-41 ftlbs, m5od 28-38 ftlbs, hope this helps.

 

[Napu(StrongWave)]

Torqued them all to 37lbs. Thanx!

 

[monkeybutts]

"Rotate the torque converter and remove four flexplate-to-converter nuts. Discard the nuts." What kind of nuts do you use to replace them and to get them from.

 

[BrooklynBay]

They have a slight pinch to apply pressure on the torque converter studs. Regular nuts might become loose from vibration. An alternative is to use Locktite or nylon insert nuts.

 

[monkeybutts]

OK, Thanks now I understand.