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Ford Timing Chain Tensioner Cutaway
- Thread starter donalds
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3xowner
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- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '00 Explorer EB 4SOHC RWD
Good post, thread.
I have a 2000 4.0L SOHC with 239k. I need to replace the tensioners again, they have 90k on them. There is a little noise from the front left side most of the time at idle and after an oil change. No noise that I can hear at RPMs over, say 1000 though.
So, what I am wondering as I get ready to change these tensioners for the 2nd time, is ... does the base hole in the tensioner need to line up with the hole in the head as to allow the oil flow to occur straight through? I have new tensioners and I still have the original and I compare them side by side... and see differences as to where the treading starts and end compared to the base hole. Even the currently installed tensioners were slightly different along this aspect as well. The new longer, left upper tensioner appears to have 14 full treads vs 15 threads from the original tensioner and it appears that the new one's threads stop at a higher distance from the base than the original one. I believe that my Hanyes Repair Guide book says the torque on both is 49 ft lb. But I am uncertain if that will properly align both the head hole and the tensioner base hole as I see the alignment / tread difference on each.
Thoughts on that?
also, should I prime them prior to installing them? I see some say yes and some say no. I think that I would not want to get the treads into the oil. Some soak the entire tensioner and some seem to just soak the base and pump the SS piston to get the oil in. I really dont want to to run the engine long without it being ready on tension...
best prep approach?
Being mine is a 2000, I have the thermostat housing which it is recommend not to remove the sensors from the housing. There are definitely a few versions of the housing/sensors for 2000. I do not have retaining clips for the sensors. I want to torque the tensioners properly. When I changed my tensioners at 148k, I did so as I was doing the thermostat housing so I had the entire area clear which gave me incredidle access to the tensioner.
Do I need to remove the entire housing again to properly torque the upper left tensioner? this is a 2nd gen 2000 EB.
thanks in advance !
I have a 2000 4.0L SOHC with 239k. I need to replace the tensioners again, they have 90k on them. There is a little noise from the front left side most of the time at idle and after an oil change. No noise that I can hear at RPMs over, say 1000 though.
So, what I am wondering as I get ready to change these tensioners for the 2nd time, is ... does the base hole in the tensioner need to line up with the hole in the head as to allow the oil flow to occur straight through? I have new tensioners and I still have the original and I compare them side by side... and see differences as to where the treading starts and end compared to the base hole. Even the currently installed tensioners were slightly different along this aspect as well. The new longer, left upper tensioner appears to have 14 full treads vs 15 threads from the original tensioner and it appears that the new one's threads stop at a higher distance from the base than the original one. I believe that my Hanyes Repair Guide book says the torque on both is 49 ft lb. But I am uncertain if that will properly align both the head hole and the tensioner base hole as I see the alignment / tread difference on each.
Thoughts on that?
also, should I prime them prior to installing them? I see some say yes and some say no. I think that I would not want to get the treads into the oil. Some soak the entire tensioner and some seem to just soak the base and pump the SS piston to get the oil in. I really dont want to to run the engine long without it being ready on tension...
best prep approach?
Being mine is a 2000, I have the thermostat housing which it is recommend not to remove the sensors from the housing. There are definitely a few versions of the housing/sensors for 2000. I do not have retaining clips for the sensors. I want to torque the tensioners properly. When I changed my tensioners at 148k, I did so as I was doing the thermostat housing so I had the entire area clear which gave me incredidle access to the tensioner.
Do I need to remove the entire housing again to properly torque the upper left tensioner? this is a 2nd gen 2000 EB.
thanks in advance !
donalds
Elite Explorer
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Just screw it in and torque it no need to line up the oil holes
Prime it by unplugging the crankshaft position sensor and turning the engine with the starter
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