Ford Timing Chain Tensioner Cutaway

[donalds]

If you ever use Bars STOP LEAK or any kinds of additive product in your engine oil you can easily.clog those little valves on the tensioner next.thing you know they aren't tight and you got serious problems. Ask me how I know !! I always use synthetic for this reason

Exactly!

 

[cober]

not in Ford

 

[3xowner]

Good post, thread.

I have a 2000 4.0L SOHC with 239k. I need to replace the tensioners again, they have 90k on them. There is a little noise from the front left side most of the time at idle and after an oil change. No noise that I can hear at RPMs over, say 1000 though.

So, what I am wondering as I get ready to change these tensioners for the 2nd time, is ... does the base hole in the tensioner need to line up with the hole in the head as to allow the oil flow to occur straight through? I have new tensioners and I still have the original and I compare them side by side... and see differences as to where the treading starts and end compared to the base hole. Even the currently installed tensioners were slightly different along this aspect as well. The new longer, left upper tensioner appears to have 14 full treads vs 15 threads from the original tensioner and it appears that the new one's threads stop at a higher distance from the base than the original one. I believe that my Hanyes Repair Guide book says the torque on both is 49 ft lb. But I am uncertain if that will properly align both the head hole and the tensioner base hole as I see the alignment / tread difference on each.

Thoughts on that?

also, should I prime them prior to installing them? I see some say yes and some say no. I think that I would not want to get the treads into the oil. Some soak the entire tensioner and some seem to just soak the base and pump the SS piston to get the oil in. I really dont want to to run the engine long without it being ready on tension...

best prep approach?

Being mine is a 2000, I have the thermostat housing which it is recommend not to remove the sensors from the housing. There are definitely a few versions of the housing/sensors for 2000. I do not have retaining clips for the sensors. I want to torque the tensioners properly. When I changed my tensioners at 148k, I did so as I was doing the thermostat housing so I had the entire area clear which gave me incredidle access to the tensioner.

Do I need to remove the entire housing again to properly torque the upper left tensioner? this is a 2nd gen 2000 EB.


thanks in advance !

 

[donalds]

what I am wondering as I get ready to change these tensioners for the 2nd time, is ... does the base hole in the tensioner need to line up with the hole in the head as to allow the oil flow to occur straight through?

Just screw it in and torque it no need to line up the oil holes
Prime it by unplugging the crankshaft position sensor and turning the engine with the starter

 

[Logiquol]

Thank you so much for the investigative work on this. I recently did my timing chain job and was also wondering what was all in there. I came close to creating a pre-oiler just for this reason. Decided not to mess with setting that all up. This thread helped to further prove while a pre-oiler may help your engine's internals last longer, it likely won't help all that much with timing related stuff. Just my two cents, but I think the heating and cooling during normal operation on those plastic parts is the other half of the problem. They get so brittle over time even normal operation is bound to bust them up.

Again thank you, I've read and used much of your advice over the past year on this forum.

 

[Argos587]

Repair your guide then use manual tensioners or a oil accumulator.... Preoiler
Then change oil often
Here's a video I made on my u tube

Do you have a list of parts and purchase sources? I'm wanting the same setup.

 

[donalds]

Do you have a list of parts and purchase sources? I'm wanting the same setup.

I bought it in 2014
The website is no longer up
You can build one by buying the parts individually
Just a tank a valve
Rubber hydraulic hose
1/4 inch brass fittings
And a 30 sec delay off relay
and a fuse
I'd be happy to help you find any parts you can't find

 

[410Fortune]

Just go with manual tensioners
Waaaay easier

 

[donalds]

Seems like the manual tensioners are going to be the standard fix
What works right

 

[Argos587]

Seems like the manual tensioners are going to be the standard fix
What works right

I did just read where the tensioner failed even with preoiler. I may end up installing a manual one. However, seems very little room to access the tensioner to adjust properly due to the intake. Barely enough room for the tensioner.

 

[BTR]

2000 XLT 2WD 4.0L V6 SOHC JOB1 (VIN E), 5-Speed Automatic O/D 5R55E, 158,000.

I've been reading this thread ever since @donalds first started it. Every time the thread pops-up in my email, I get a gut feeling telling me to just-go-ahead and install manual tensioners.

 

[Argos587]

I bought it in 2014
The website is no longer up
You can build one by buying the parts individually
Just a tank a valve
Rubber hydraulic hose
1/4 inch brass fittings
And a 30 sec delay off relay
and a fuse
I'd be happy to help you find any parts you can't find

Yes, I could use your help. Due to my circumstances, I need to install the preoiler to buy so me time. The front cassette, chain & tensioner were all replaced this summer (Ford Parts) and here we are just a few months later. When I can, I'll replace the cassette and install a manual tensioner. I'm proficient at assembly, but not so much for gathering random parts. This would be my first setup of this kind and would greatly appreciate your input. Let me know if we need to communicate other than this thread/forum.

 

[donalds]

Yes, I could use your help. Due to my circumstances, I need to install the preoiler to buy so me time. The front cassette, chain & tensioner were all replaced this summer (Ford Parts) and here we are just a few months later. When I can, I'll replace the cassette and install a manual tensioner. I'm proficient at assembly, but not so much for gathering random parts. This would be my first setup of this kind and would greatly appreciate your input. Let me know if we need to communicate other than this thread/forum.

Here is a start

Canton Racing Products 24-026K: 2-Quart Accusump Kit Includes: Accusump Oil Accumulator - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with Canton Racing Products 2-Quart Accusump Kit Includes: Accusump Oil Accumulator 24-026K parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!

www.jegs.com

I will say it will be much cheaper to just install the manual tensioner

 

[Argos587]

Here is a start

Canton Racing Products 24-026K: 2-Quart Accusump Kit Includes: Accusump Oil Accumulator - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with Canton Racing Products 2-Quart Accusump Kit Includes: Accusump Oil Accumulator 24-026K parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!

www.jegs.com

I will say it will be much cheaper to just install the manual tensioner

Agree on the price., damn!! OK, well I'll just need to hold my breath and hopefully it'll hold out until I my circumstances change.

 

[C420sailor]

I just posted a summary of the mechanical tensioner install about a week ago. Find it

You have to remove the manifold to install, then use a 1/4” long extension with a 10mm socket to adjust it…then lock it down with a 19mm wrench. You won’t be able to get a hand in there. It’s very doable, trust me. I am VERY happy with my new tensioners.

 

[donalds]

I suggest to install the rear 1 1st it will give you the confidence to tackle the front 1

And the rear is most likely where the noise is coming from

 

[BTR]

2000 XLT 2WD 4.0L V6 SOHC JOB1 (VIN E), 5-Speed Automatic O/D 5R55E, 158,000.

On the left, there's some writing in yellow marker. What is the writing?