Found Parts in oil pan...timing chain guide?

[donalds]

This is how I got my oil filter adapter off
Their is no room with the exhaust in the way so I bought a cheep 19 mm box wrench and grinded it down to fit cracked it loose and unscrew
The rest by hand 1999 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 SOHC Oil Filter Adapter Gasket | RockAuto

 

[Schaeff58]

That is a good idea! I think I have a crappy 19mm that I found that I can use.

Thanks!

Greg

 

[CDW6212R]

...
I usually go to Advance for almost all my parts... you can save a ton of $$ on line. Can always find a 25% off coupon sometimes as much as 40%. I shop around, Amazon is great if you can wait, they are almost always cheaper. Rock Auto is good, but shipping puts it up to about Amazon prices... BUT The Rock Auto parts finder is the best! You can find, say a seal on there and search the part number on Amazon and get it there... Or from Rock auto if it all adds up cheaper....
Sorry that was probably more than ya asked for LOL... but thanks for the help!
...
Greg

Great work and the Simple Green is better for the environment than carb cleaner etc.

That's the same way I've been hunting parts for a long time too. It's great for anything readily available. I've hunted a bunch of obsolete parts for my Fords since the 80's. Those are an adventure, I'm thankful for eBay and the many online sources.

 

[Schaeff58]

Great work and the Simple Green is better for the environment than carb cleaner etc.

That's the same way I've been hunting parts for a long time too. It's great for anything readily available. I've hunted a bunch of obsolete parts for my Fords since the 80's. Those are an adventure, I'm thankful for eBay and the many online sources.

Thats very true. Ebay has it all for sure. When they did that buy back back in the 90"s or early 2000's for older larger sized motors, less efficient., non environmentally friendly cars, that hurt the supply in junk yards etc. I sorta gave up my old vehicles just for that reason, parts were getting scarce.

I like the older cars/trucks some are easier to work on. This one is not that bad, but I am ready to be done! LOL

 

[GP Argie]

Hi guys, Schaefs,
I'm planning to do it on mine '99 XLT Limited on Southern Hemisphere Spring.

Studied a lot of practical stuff, mostly from this forum, but elsewhere in YouTube.

Liked the most these 4 videos from Ford Tech Makuloco... Highly detailed and also attached the Amazon link to buy all spare parts used:

"Ford Explorer Ranger 4.0L SOHC Startup Rattle Fix: Timing Walkthrough Pt 1 of 4 Pulling the Engine"
Video 1 of 4


Videos 2 to 4




Hope this helps

Kind regards from the America's down under, GP

 

[Schaeff58]

Hey GP, Man that is such great info! It really brings home all the great info Don, and others, shared with me from the start! I cannot thank you enough for that! I am not planning on pulling this motor at this point. (BUT man now I am thinking that I should). I know I am leaving some old parts in there that can fail.... I need this out of my shop so I can get other jobs done. I am not a pro mechanic, but I do a lot of little jobs for folks. This was not supposed to be a motor job, but it turned into sort of one when I pulled that oil pan to replace the gasket and found those parts. I know I am also leaving some oil leaks as in the rear main and probably the ones he pointed out early in the first video.

Headed out to the shop now. Ill let ya all know what progress I had tonight.

(I am back from a great visit to a college friend of mine. Had a DRL (Daytime Running Lights) on my Subaru go out at some point BEFORE my trip and it was very hard to see in the rain and the so called mountains of Western MD, PA and WV as I headed west to Illinois. I stopped till the sun was up and proceeded with out issue... found the problem, replaced the relay and headlights.... What a PITA all that was. But I' gots some good lights' now! LOL

Thanks again GP!

 

[GP Argie]

Don't mention it...

By the way, same sh_tty weather here as we're in solstice below the equator...

 

[Schaeff58]

Don't mention it...

By the way, same sh_tty weather here as we're in solstice below the equator...

Bummer on the weather GP. Last year, here, was the wettest year since Noah, and this year has shaped up to be very similar.

So yesterday was not as productive as I had hoped. I got the, "Bye Dear, oh, there is a list of things that needs done, and thanks", wave as my lovely wife headed out to parts unknown for the day. Plus the lawn needed to be cut, prior to the next rain, called for last night...etc etc...So I did get a few things done. Took stock of what I had and still needed etc. Got the front two timing components finished. Cleaned up some gasket surfaces. I replaced the rodent chewed knock sensor, and front cam timing chain tensioner. I looked at the back one.. not sure how I am going to do that. Don said it was easy to get to, and I can feel it, but not sure how to loosen it and with what... first priority today. Then on to the timing chain cover et al... once that is on, its the home stretch with the water pump and the rest of the front of the engine drive components.

More later

Greg

 

[Schaeff58]

Well I gotta say that Don was true to his comment that the back cam chain tensioner was easy to do. I took the tire off, found a 27mm socket and it came right out, put the little washer from the old one on the new one and boom all was well. Thanks Don!

Lunch break... got the timing cover on, as well as the water pump. Need to go under and put the upper oil pan/cradle in and then the oil pan and then start on the drive components up front. Had to go get some 7/16 nuts and one bolt to deal with the inserts of the cradle. I just dont have a 7/16 allen wrench, so for $1.28 I got one that I hope works.

Making good progress! LOL I could see this being done tomorrow at some point if no snags... Fingers crossed!

 

[CDW6212R]

That sounds great. You'll be ready to work on another one soon after a break from that one.

 

[swshawaii]

@Schaeff58
Following your progress. Nice work!

I'm almost certain you've read about rear hydraulic tensioner leaks, but just in case. They are notorious for leaking after being replaced. Mine came off with no gasket and the OE tensioner leaked after tightening to 50 ft/lbs. Ended up tightening to a scary 70 ft./lbs. before it sealed. Later discovered I also had a tiny leak from the rear of the passenger valve cover like the OP's linked below. Oil stains directly above the tensioner are usually a telltale sign. Just a heads up to check the tensioners for leaks after initial start up. Good luck, you're almost there.

4.0 SOHC Rear Timing Chain Tensioner Oil Leak

 

[Schaeff58]

That sounds great. You'll be ready to work on another one soon after a break from that one.

Hey Don! LOL yes you are correct. Had I known what I know now and after seeing those great videos GP shared, I think I would have just pulled the motor and done the front and back guides et al. But I am hoping this will be good for her for a long time! I hope to get this all back together today!

So yesterday I got the timing chain cover on (replaced the oil seal as well), the water pump on, the knock sensor replaced, the upper pan/cradle and the lower oil pan. All torqued to specs, oil pump pick up too... ( I was so afraid I was going to forget that, I kept putting it on, only to realize I had to remove it to get to the insert... LOL)

..... Speaking of the lower pan.... I had a new gasket and I prepped all surfaces involved. Then I saw that I had not removed the rear half circle that goes around the crank rear main seal. got that off with some effort and cleaned it all up etc... when I looked at the new gasket it had two tabs that continued up past the plane of the cradle and into the two little crevices on either side of the crank rear main seal area. I went back in and cleaned and picked and got out as much as I could but i knew it would not have been enough for the tabs on my gasket to go in there and seal correctly. I saw nothing I could do but cut the tabs off with just a little showing sticking up, 1/8 to 1/4" and used a dab of good old ultra black in all the appropriate spots as well as the reduced tabs and their intended homes. I could see this being easier on a stand, but not sure if it will seal tight or not. Thoughts? That lower pan/cradle was a major pita with all the bolts, inserts etc...next time I am pulling it from the start...

Greg

 

[Schaeff58]

@Schaeff58
Following your progress. Nice work!

I'm almost certain you've read about rear hydraulic tensioner leaks, but just in case. They are notorious for leaking after being replaced. Mine came off with no gasket and the OE tensioner leaked after tightening to 50 ft/lbs. Ended up tightening to a scary 70 ft./lbs. before it sealed. Later discovered I also had a tiny leak from the rear of the passenger valve cover like the OP's linked below. Oil stains directly above the tensioner are usually a telltale sign. Just a heads up to check the tensioners for leaks after initial start up. Good luck, you're almost there.

4.0 SOHC Rear Timing Chain Tensioner Oil Leak

swshawii,
Thanks for your words of encouragement and the tip. To be honest I did not read about the tensioner leak, but will now. And there is no way either tensioner was touqued to 50 ft lbs, they both came off very easily..... I am going to go back and re check both... maybe pull the rear one clean up again and retorque to spec... THX!!

Greg

Edit/post script: I just read the better part of the post..starts with the leak and then moves on to the rear cassette replacement. Really great info! I saved the link if I ever do meet up with one of these again...
And... to sorta answer my own question about the gasket... in this pic from that thread above... you can see the area where those tabs would go and that it looks like I may be ok... but, and I am not sure, in that picture, it could be that those tabs lie down and become part of the gasket on the flat area leading up to the half circle???? At any rate, I think I put enough ultra black in there to take up the slack and stop any leak.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm sure that will be fine, I would have done the exact same thing. I love Ultra Black RTV, I've used it for the normal things, plus a few household needs instead of the cheap caulk products for things like my Chimney, shower drain top seam etc. It doesn't let go in any weather, and last month Amazon has had it for under $5, the Ultra Copper too.

 

[Schaeff58]

I'm sure that will be fine, I would have done the exact same thing. I love Ultra Black RTV, I've used it for the normal things, plus a few household needs instead of the cheap caulk products for things like my Chimney, shower drain top seam etc. It doesn't let go in any weather, and last month Amazon has had it for under $5, the Ultra Copper too.

Don, thanks for the conformation.... Just could not see it sealing and I knew those tabs were not going to seat correctly.... Oh yes Ultra Blake is great stuff. I dont remember if I said this or not but in reference to the ultra copper, my wife's sister's daughter's husband... (LOL follow that?). is a farmer, and uses propane tractors. He says they use that on the manifolds and it holds up great. He said they get hot, like cherry red hot.... I found that hard to believe, but I did not argue with him (He is a big man, 6'5", all muscle, was a marine and well, I am smarter than that!) . I have yet to use it, but will.

Alright, drum roll please... I GOT THE TRUCK DONE!!!...

It was a struggle, and a very long day.... along the way I found another rodent chewed set of wires, one of the connectors of the thermostat housing sensors, the grey one... I cut it , put on some shrink tube, soldered it and shrunk the tube on it and called it good... also I replaced the thermostat housing unit...but had one hell of a time getting the top radiator hose on... the top hose connector, at the thermostat on the housing was very tight to the bottom of the throttle body... WTF... so I filed down the TB and it went on ok,... Pulled the fuel pump fuse, cranked it several times for good oil priming, and then put the fuse back, it started right up! Sounds GREAT.... No leaks.... all seems to be right with the world....

I did notice one thing... and I am going to ck it again tomorrow, it my needed to be burped.. I am just not sure about this motor... the temp gauge reads middle of the scale, and I dont think it should have been yet as nothing was hot, it was only a few minutes at after start up, and I was still cking the coolant level, waiting for the thermostat to open... So are these hard to get all the air out, aka burp?

I am really surprised at how well it runs... quieter too... I think the front chain was making some noise but its better now.... And I think I was wrong when I quoted the miles.. it is at about 198k not 225k... not that it makes a great deal of difference... Inside looked good, top and bottom, no sludge any place I saw... could go another 50k easy...

Which one of those sensors on the thermostat housing is the one for the temp? If it is not reading correctly, what should I do? Why would it read in the middle if it was A) not connected, as if my wire repair was not good, and B) could the new sensor be bad?, of C) system has air in it?

Thanks for the great help and input! What a great place! You all were very helpful! I see these for sale and they are pretty cheap, I might even consider one..

Ill report back on what I find on the temp gauge.

Greg
.

 

[CDW6212R]

It usually takes 2-3 cycles of running the engine to push all of the air out. If you had it running with the radiator cap off as it warmed up, and the level was at the top when the cap went on, it should get the air out in a short time. Each time the engine shuts off(warm), the volume of mass inside is least, and as it cools, it pulls in coolant. So a little air is pushed out each time the engine runs, and coolant is pulled in to replace it, as it cools down, engine off.

 

[Schaeff58]

Ok roger that... cked the gauge this am and it was at cold or zero when I started it up. Still warmed up pretty quick, tried the heat it was warm, not hot but warm... so I think all that is working well. Drove it a bit, cked the tranny level, it was good. Still takes a minute to kick into reverse, but I was not tasked with that issue, and it may not be one... Man this took a while but I am glad it is done... I did a quick wipe down of the car with some of the mystery spray cleaner stuff, looks pretty good! Supposed to come and get it tonight!

NEXT!

LOL

Thanks Don, et al! Could not have done it so well with out you! .

Greg