Front Axelshaft U-Joint Replacement | Ford Explorer Forums

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Front Axelshaft U-Joint Replacement

VairKing

Midwest-Xplorer Member
Joined
January 10, 2002
Messages
1,829
Reaction score
7
City, State
Kalamazoo, Michigan
Year, Model & Trim Level
'97 EB V8 AWD
Ok, I tried a bunch of searches and couldnt find anything. When my truck is in 4x4, with the hubs locked (warns) and I turn the wheel, while moving foward, it makes a really loud clicking noise. Also the powersteering whines like it is out of fluid, but it is full. This happens only while in 4x4. I am assuming its the front axelshaft u joints. If im wrong, please let me know. My question is how hard are these to replace? I consider myself a pretty capable mechanic, and have any tools that would be needed. The haynes manual didnt have any infromation, so Im wondering what are the specific steps in this process. Who has had a shop do this, and aproximently how much did it cost? If it seems extrememly involved, I may have a shop do it, but I like to do things myself so I know they are done right. Thanks for the help guys.
 



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I have done the job myself three different times it is really not that hard it just sucks taking everything apart.A shop will be pricey becase it is all labor the u-joints themselves are cheap
 






TTT
I think im gonna do it myself, so if somebody could list kinda what needs to be done, ie "this must come off to get to this, and you must do this...etc."
Thanks
 






I'm assuming you are testing this on loose dirt. If you do this on a hard surface you will get driveline binding which makes all kinds of bad pops/groans/whines...

If you find anything on how to do this (mainly the how do I get enough stuff out of the way so I can do this) please post it here (assuming it doesn't come from here)..

I'm sure our stock u-joints need to be done.. (I've done the rear, but haven't figured out everythign that has to come out of the front yet to get the front ones)..

~Mark
 






Just replaced mine last weekend.

OKay here is the deal. There are 3 u joints in the TTB. ONe on each outer axle shaft and one on teh passenger side inner shaft.
In order to get the inner shaft out of the diff on the pass side youhave to crack open the diff and remove the C clip (unless you are already ARB equipped),

This is not a small job. Getting the outer axle shafts out is not a big deal, remove wheels, hubs, rotors, spindles, blamo you are there. The inner shaft means drop the pumpkin. Good time to replace your gear lube!

Droping the center section on the TTB is not too much more work but it is some additional time invested. Usually the drivers side beam will have to have the coil, shock, and sway bar disconnected to get enough droop to yank the "pig", especially on lifted trucks with drop brackets.

Okay so you got your two outer axle shafts out, no problem, you figure the one extra U joint on the passenger side will be okay for now, at least until you regear or break something (justify dropping the pig).
Now the fun begins.
Keep in mind rarely do these U joints go bad. Unless you drove around on concrete in 4x4 alot, or for whatever reason used the front axle alot, the stock U joints last a long time. However if you feel this is your problem then go ahead. I only replaced one of mine because I had to, in order to install teh ARB the inner shaft had to come out and be welded on, in order to get to where the welding needed to be done the U joint had to come out.
The U joints are a real PITA to get out. U joints normally are, but these are even worse. :) Each bearing cap (all 4 sides of the plus) have little c clips inside, not like the U joints on your driveshafts, these are inside the yoke. So first remove all 4 of these with a small flathead or two. Now you are ready to pound the U Joing out. The bigger your vise for this the better. Also you will need a BFH.
Start pounding the bearings caps out one at a time, you need to pound them OUT of the yoke, not to the inside it will never fit. Use a socket and work from the opposite side. I would say it took at leastan hour to get the old U joint out and another 20 minutes to get the new one in.
These are the hardest damn U joints Ihave ever tackled. My front end came out of a 92 Explorer that had an engine fire, and had a ton of miles, I also have wheeled the D35 TTB pretty hard, and the U stock U joints looked just fine. ONly replace them if you have too....otehrwise wait for one to break on the trail and then make sure you have spare axle shafts with u joints already installed or you will be there ALL DAY.
 






I made a special a c-clamp that makes doing that inside u-joint alot easier.You dont even have to drop the pumpkin for it:D
 






What does it consist of? Can you snap a pic of it?
 






I bought a 6 inch c-clamp from farm and fleet and just trimmed the top and sides off a little.I have replaced that u-joint this way three different times just make sure you soak it monkey piss real good before you do it.I will try to dig the clamp up its in my garage somewhere
 






I would like to see that, I broke a couple C clamps trying to do my front driveshaft U joints years ago. Must be a pretty stout unit if it can push that U joint through....
 






Almost forgot

I welded a nut on the end so you can use a socket or a impact it works real good saves alot of time:D
 






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