Are you kidding?
Everything can cause a shake, especially on the highway.
If you have a little side to side play in the wheel (tire) then it probably is time for wheel bearings.
You will need:
inner and outer wheel bearings, including races.
Use Temken bearings if you want them to last
You will also need 2 new grease seals.
You will need a spanner wrench, also known as, hub tool, 4 pronged hub socket, spindle nut wrech, etc...
You will need a GOOD torque wrench
You will need some sort of a guide, like Chiltons or Haynes, they should work fine for this application.
Oh and if you have automatic hubs the spindle nut tool is different, the spanner wrench is for the manual hubs/spindle nuts.
You will also need a crapload of wheel bearing grease, the marine grade stuff is what Ford specs and it works well..
Here's the basic proceedure:
after it's jacked up and supported safely (dont forget to loosen the lugs first)
remove the wheel/tire
remove the brake caliper by knocking out the slide pins
remove the outer spindle nut, lock washer, and inner spindle nut
(with auto hubs this can be tricky, there is a little "keeper" in there that can be a real PITA to remove, a good magnet can help)
Now the rotor will slide off the spindle
Take the rotor to your work bench
carefully pry out the grease seal from the back of the rotor
remove the inner and outer wheel bearings
remove the old bearing race's (A good long strong flathead and rubber mallet will work)
Clean the heck out of the rotor (brake parts cleaner)
install the new races. This can be tricky, you can use the old race to make sure it is completely seated! very important!!!!
Pack the new bearings.
INsert the inner (rear) bearing and then tap in teh grease seal (careful!)
now the assembly goes back on the spindle.
Now insert the outer wheel bearing
Now the inner spindle nut, torque as directed
back off 1.4 turn, re-torque WITHOUT losing the pre-load. If you back off to far you will lose the preload and you must start over.
install keeper washer
intstall and torque outer spindle nut.
Re-install the caliper and slide pins, be sure to clean and then lube the slide pins. Use slide pin lube grease (no joke! it's called caliper side pin lube grease!)
Now is the perfect time to replace your brake pads as well, also to have the rotors turned or replaced.
Good luck!
Oh and be sure to support the calipers, dont let them hang....
After you have done your wheel bearings on the D35 for the first time, you will be able to repeat the process in under an hour....
I almost forgot.
You can also take this opportunity to clean and lube your hubs.
If you have auto hubs or manual hubs this applies to both:
remove the hub assembly
Turn it up side down (like a glass or a jar)
Wipe off any visible dirt, pay close attention to the o rind on the outer hub surface, if it ir ripped ot torn replace it, this is what allows dirt in or keeps it out.
Fill the hub with ATF.
Yes thats right fill it with automatic tranny fluid.
Let it sit
If they are manual hubs you can click the hub in and out of lock a few times (I do mine about 50x's) while it is full of ATF. This will help dislodge any crapola thats in there.
Dump out the dirty ATF and let it drain for a while
Make sure it's pretty close to dry, then you can re-install them
DO NOT lube the hubs with grease, these hubs do not require any bearing grease. They are a "Dry" hub which means they get some grease from the wheel bearing and thats all they need.
Soaking your hubs in ATF once a year can make those crappy auto's last forever.
It keep sht emanual hubs clean and smooth operating...
