Front drive shaft removal = FAIL!

[Infinity08]

I was attempting to remove the front shaft to alleviate some binding issues I have until I could get to the root of the problem. After several days of soaking with PB Blaster, my father and I jacked her up and began. We loosened the six 8mm bolts that hold it into the transfer case with little issue. Then, we went for the u-joint holding it on the front differential. This is where things took a nosedive. First, looking through the tools, we had Torx bits up to T25, and from 45 to whatever- no T30. Run to the store, find the proper bits. Crawl back under, and twist the new bit in half with almost NO torque on the ratchet. Now, the bolt has a hardened steel head stuck in it, and while it looks like a 10mm wrench would go on the outside, one just will not bite it.

So, how the hell do I get this thing off there?! We put everything back and I'm driving it now, but I don't want to do this more than the next time.

 

[ragajungle]

heat, lots and lots of heat on the head. Get a spray bottle with water and heat up the head than spritz with the water and repeat. The expansion and contraction should make it much easier to persuade the bolt out. MApp gas is my suggestion if don't have access to a torch. You can get it at any hardware store.

Sorry for your luck-been there

 

[imp]

Infinity, I replaced that front U-Joint recently (2004 Expl.) due to high miles. Hate those Torx little devils, but mine loosened OK. Trouble was at the other end, cracked 2 sockets loosening the long screws at the CV joint, transfer case end. Ford Loc-Tites those bolts.

First, try small vise-grips on bolt heads. If no-go,

Try a good, sharp cold chisel, about 1/2" wide, sharp with a single-angle, shear off bolt heads with it. Then problem is removal of screw shanks from U-joint yoke, may be easy, maybe not.

Or, carefully saw through the 2 straps, pry U-joint out of U-joint yoke, then use impact wrench and correct socket to remove the yoke and either drill out screws, try screw extractor, or replace yoke. Be prepared to achieve correct tightness when re-installing, to obtain pinion bearing preload. Might as well replace pinion seal if you go this far.

FWIW, I replaced those Torx dingies with good-old standard U.S. hex socket-head cap screws, grade 8 probably stronger than factory screws, they are 1/4-28 NF (National Fine) screws, think 3/4" length worked good.

Other end also replaced long screws with socket head; those tiny hex heads on the factory screws suck! Those are I believe 8mm diameter, pitch I forget, maybe 1.5mm, if you buy socket heads, check thread pitch of old screw against new by placing side by side, get length similar to old screws, use Loc-Tite as insurance on new screws. Do not allow weight of shaft hanging down to bear on the CV joint, can damage it. imp

Such screws as I mention can be ordered from MSC Industrial Supply. Their stock is enormous.

 

[OneLever]

I had a hard time with those U-joint bolts as well. Like ragajungle suggested use heat. You can get a small hand held butane torch from Lowe's and go at it. Watch out for the fuel lines though.

This thread isn't for your year, but it sounds like it might apply to you: Link