Front End Suspension Differences

[ian1739]

98 Limited 4x4 4L.
When I got this Explorer, the front air ride shocks had been replaced with gas, no coil overs, just the shocks. Recently I replaced the rear air shocks with gas also, scrapping the compressor and that mess. I plan on putting another leaf or two in the rear or maybe 1250lbs springs from a wrecker, as opposed to the 850s I have in there now. Its not a big issue in the rear, seems to handle weight fine. But I was taking a look at the front end today and noticed less than an inch of clearance between the lower suspension arm and the rubber limiter. Uh oh... thought there should have been a bit more clearance than that. Almost looks like if I put in a new rubber limiter on, it would be bottomed out just sitting there!
Upon further inspection I find that one torsion bar adjusting bolt is cranked in all the way, and the other side is out all the way! wtf?! So I cranked the one side up to match the other, hoping to get a bit more ride height in the front, which helped a bit. But I still don't think the front end is sitting right, seems way to low. Tried to snap a couple pictures:

Pretty bad eh?
So my question: Is there any front end suspension difference between an explorer with air ride, and one without? Stiffer torsion bars, or coil over shocks, or something I can get from the wrecker nice and cheap?
I've been looking online, and can get a 3" lift kit that basically just has new torsion bar adjusters, that I guess loads the torsion bar up enough to raise the vehicle. I know this would be a pretty stiff ride and is a bad way of doing things, but if it will work without putting coilovers on it might be my best bet. I'm not trying to build and off roader, and don't need a $2000 lift kit, but I'm just trying keep the explorer from destroying itself in day to day use.
Any advice here (besides put the air ride back in) would be great, thanks.

 

[410Fortune]

One bolt is supossed to stick down further then the other, cranking it in to match the other side was a no no

What you need to do is a torsion twist, using new longer bolts and a 2 jaw puller

I would shoot for 2-3" in your case because your factory torsion bars are looking pretty sad right now. If you have the $$$ you may consider a new set of torsion bars as well, there are different spring rates available, you can find everything you need by searching this forum for "torsion twist"

 

[gijoecam]

I'm not sure that there is a difference in the spring rates for the air ride. I know if I was designing it, I would use the same springs, just put less preload on them for the air ride.

The dealer may be a little more help than I can be...

-Joe

edit: How, You might ask? Call the parts counter and ask them. They won't know. Ask them to look up the part number for the front torsion springs on a 98 4 door Explorer with air ride and see if they're the same part number as the springs for the same model year without air ride. (If they get finicky, tell them one's an XLT and one's an Eddie Bauer)

Good luck!

 

[ian1739]

Must have searched everything but torsion twist... well i guess that's what TT stands for eh?

So I phoned Ford, and they say the 5.0L's have stiffer torsion bars, "b" I guess, pretty sure I have "d" right now. They want $120+tax each, plus $100+tax each for torsion bar adjusters. The wrecker wants $75 per bar, and with none out of vehicles already I'm sure it'd be hell getting them out. So it sounds like putting in some longer bolts would be my easiest/cheapest solution. Reading the other posts, most people were able to get 2" with "b" bars and stock adjuster bolts, so with 1.5" longer bolts I should be laughing. All I want is an inch between that rubber spacer and the lower suspension arm!

410Fortune said I need a 2 jaw puller, would this be to replace the torsion bar? I shouldn't need this if I'm just putting in longer bolts, right? Just back out the old bolts and put in new, longer ones? Does anybody know what the thread/size of the stock bolts are? Also, according to Ford's service dvd, CAUTION: The torsion bar adjustment bolt is coated with dry adhesive and must be replaced if it is backed off or removed. Failure to do so can cause the adjustment bolt to loosen during operation and cause a loss of vehicle alignment. Can I just use Loctite 243 for this, or should I get some 277 or what?

Thanks for the advice, I plan on doing this asap so any help is greatly appreciated!

Oh yeah, what about swapping the torsion bars left for right? They'd be torquing in the opposite direction that they have for the last 10 years, might they be a bit stiffer, or am I out to lunch?