Front Locker

[Craigerz]

Ill post the question first in case you don't feel like reading and just know the answer. With the Lock Right front locker do the c clips on the front CV shafts stay on or do they come off before installing.



So I have the Lock Right locker up front. It does its job when needed but isn't the friendliest thing to drive. I have had it in for almost a year and a half (?) Its not a daily driver and the only highway use it sees is going from place to place. It was like trying to relearn to drive again with it installed because of the way it works.

Long story short I broke a CV up front the other weekend. Completely my fault, should have taken it out of 4x4 turning that sharp and pop. Limped it to the pavement and got towed home. Crappy day but survivable. Learned a few really valuable lessons that day and thankful I was only 8 miles from my parents place.

Replaced maybe a dozen front CVs (not only in this) and have had my fronts out maybe half dozen times. Once I nicked the front boot with the sawsall cutting off the rusted end links...... But this is the first one I've actually physically broken in half.

When I installed the locker up front I started carrying 2 spare CVs with me, which that day happened to be in my garage. Well that day came. But at the end of the day, for the life of me I could not get the drivers side axle out. I have always been able to pretty much pop them out by hand or with a big flat head. I tried pry bars and beating and tapping and wood and metal and and rotating and cursing.

3 days later I finally got the tool for the end of my slide hammer AND the axle popper tools (look like big forked ball joint separator). Using both at the same time (as skilled as I am there were 2 of us) got it to pop out after about 30 seconds.

I read on here about the drivers side being hard sometimes but this was ridiculous. Got my replacement ( and then the one I broke replacement under warranty ) and cant get either one of them back in. They are both remans but what are the chances of 2 at once? The splines came out undamaged and the c clip wasn't bent or anything odd looking like it was caught. And I've had them out before with just my hands popping them out too. So was this just a case of stubborn not wanting to work right cheap reman CVs? Thought Id ask before trying to force them in as it always just slipped in before.

And I have the instructions, but they are basically generic one set of instructions for every locker they sell type.

 

[CDW6212R]

Does the locker have an unusual deeper snap-ring groove that isn't working well with the CV axle? That's all I can think of.

I need to pull apart my spare front and see what it takes to install new bearings etc. Did you rebuild your own, and what did you find to learn how it's done properly? I need to learn on the first stock diff, and then install a Torsen in the next one, and later another.

 

[imp]

Does the locker have an unusual deeper snap-ring groove that isn't working well with the CV axle? That's all I can think of.

I need to pull apart my spare front and see what it takes to install new bearings etc. Did you rebuild your own, and what did you find to learn how it's done properly? I need to learn on the first stock diff, and then install a Torsen in the next one, and later another.

@CDW6212R
Don't recall details of your own experience, but anyway, an admin recommended I go ahead with starting my thread aimed mainly at Ford 9-inch axles. Don't apply directly to Explorers except special-use guys, but the many facts involved apply to any drive axle type differential unit. Look for it if you care to. I expect to put it together tonight. Images from my other forum won't copy, so I'll have to go find them again. imp

 

[CDW6212R]

Yeah, the general build process will be similar. But I know from having one front D35 rebuilt by a shop foreman of my local dealer many years back, he had to borrow a special smaller bearing separator because the parts are so small in these diff's. I've ordered the rebuild kits and odd seals etc, and a separator kit I hope will work.

 

[imp]

Yeah, the general build process will be similar. But I know from having one front D35 rebuilt by a shop foreman of my local dealer many years back, he had to borrow a special smaller bearing separator because the parts are so small in these diff's. I've ordered the rebuild kits and odd seals etc, and a separator kit I hope will work.

@CDW6212R
FWIW, my thread is in
Forums>Offroad Tech Forums>Offroad Projects>Offroad Drivelines imp

 

[boominXplorer]

The splines are probably tighter on the locker inner gears and possibly set up for c clips also.

I'd start the shaft into the splines, compress the CV joints and hit the end with a dead blow hammer while holding it square with pressure inward. Make sure to put the nut on the threads to avoid damaging them.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yes, leave them on the CV's.

If the Cir clips are deformed at all, they will either fight you tooth and nail, or simply won't go in...ever.

I have had to remove brand new Cir Clips, and replace with old ones before. Weirdest thing ever, but these suckers are picky sometimes. If an old one doesn't work, if it was me, I would be inspecting that axle seal, to make sure it isn't fubared, and is causing the problem. If good, I would be dropping that housing, and opening it up for a look see.

I keep the spare set of CV's in the rig at all times. I built a storage box for the back, just so they have a permanent home. I know if I left them at home, the same thing would happen to me, and one would break. lol

 

[Craigerz]

Thanks all. That was what I was looking for!

The front end was just rebuilt when I got the truck so I just dropped the locker in. Taking the front end apart to get the dif out was the longest part of the job. I didn’t do anything with the inner bearings. I was looking at a Torsen when I found the deal on the locker for half the price is the only reason I chose it.

I have also started a parts box lol I started my dedicated tool collection that will hopefully keep me off the side of the road. Any specialty tools you keep in your rig?

 

[boominXplorer]

Save your old outer axle stubs. I keep them with me in case of catastrophic front driveline damage. The hubs must have something holding them together to roll when CV is removed, hence reason for keeping the stubs.

 

[Craigerz]

Done and done!! Trust me that was on the valuable lesson learned checklist....

 

[gmanpaint]

Food for thought...

Having a mini detroit style locker in a live axle such as yours, can be problematic with a stock transfercase. Always having power applied (TOD still sends Minimal power) causes that locker to engage.

If you swapped that locker into a 95-96 CAD axle, you would be back to an open front (per say) when in 2wd. When your T-case sends power to it, only the dr side will get any of it, as the Pass side will be free spinning. Even then, that power wont do anything, since the pass side is now open, and isn't enough to do anything with the dr side. 4wd is a different story, as more power is being sent to it, and will engage the locker, even if the pass side axles are not locked.
Easy swap using 95% stock Explorer parts. You just add a on/off/on switch to the relays for pass side axle disconnect control.

You could also do a 1354 manual swap easily in your 97. Manual case will not throw an ounce of power to the front when in 2wd. Early 97 had the VSS in the T-case, and makes this a super simple bolt in swap. Later 97 got rid of the T-case VSS, and rely on the rear ABS & tone ring in the differential for that speedo signal. If you do have the later model, this swap is still doable.

 

[Craigerz]

I already have the 4406 in it. Would it still be better to have the CAD axle?

 

[gmanpaint]

I already have the 4406 in it. Would it still be better to have the CAD axle?

Right on! I didn't know.

The CAD will improve the steering & handling, as you don't even know the locker is there with it in 2wd. If you can live with how you have it, leave it be, but if you want to free up the front in 2wd, go for it. Read up on it here, and think it out.

 

[Craigerz]

Awesome. I’ll def be looking into it. Won’t exactly be a tomorrow project but I’ll be checking it out.