Front Power window issue

[guykickinit]

My 94 Explorer XLT 4 door has the front windows down and wont roll up. The back windows work just fine from the master at the drivers side or each door. Passenger front window wont go up from either switch. Drivers window wont go up either happened at the same time. when I press the switch down for each of the 2 windows I can hear the motor click, but they are already down. There is only one fuse and the back windows work so it can't be that. I have disassembled the driver side switch, cleaned and reassembled. No avail. every other thing works in the vehicle except those 2 windows. Down has an audible click but up does not.
It was just odd that they both stopped at the same time. My only other test is check for continuity between the switches.
Any suggestion welcome.

 

[ChildIdenticant]

Do you hear the motors turn at all? if not, there is something called "one-touch down" module, in the door. Your explanation points to that as the culprit.
Edit: specifically located mounted to the inside of the door panel.

 

[guykickinit]

Multiple issues: Pulled drivers boot into the door. 6 or 7 wires have cracked insulation. WY to the up on pass side was severed. Repaired that. Other wires intact. (will check and repair or reinforce). Pulled the one touch module and jumped 1&2 (red & RY). Neither window worked.
Removed just the drivers motor; connected power and ground and then reversed. motor worked in both directions. Re-installed motor now window works.
There is an audible click or clack about 4 times during each direction of full travel.
Will pull the passenger motor tomorrow. Then order 2 new ones. Since I'm this far.
I am guessing the motors have acquired a dead spot and both of them decided to fail at the same time.

 

[J_C]

Click or clack suggests to me that the plastic pucks inside the motor gear housing have started to shear so it slips when the window encounters a little more resistance which you can reduce by lubing the mechanicals but ultimately you probably need new pucks. Dorman sells a kit for that.

Aftermarket motors tend to be junk, I would at least examine the pucks before buying motors as the motorcraft are probably pretty expensive.

 

[~X~]

J_C is right, get the insides of the gear drive clean, replace the drive pucks & grease with a plastic friendly grease like silicone. In mine I skip the pucks and use 7/16 ball bearings from the hardware store.

While the door panel is off, lube your window tracks & guides. I use silicone spray in the felt runners and silicone grease in the mechanism tracks. Also, this is a good time for new door panel fasteners. No need to buy motors, save your money for beer.

 

[guykickinit]

New motors in. Greased the rails with O-ring grease I've had for a decade. Good stuff too. Windows work perfect. I'll keep the old motors to rebuild. New switches will be in tomorrow or so. but those are much easier to put in. Most of the wires with cracked housing just got taped. reinstalled boots and away we go.
Is the harness for the doors on big piece or are they plugged in individually?

 

[J_C]

^ From the following topic it looks like there was a changeover in harness design in '94 so you might have the older two connector style, or the newer bolt-together single mating connectors (in the door jam), then inside the door, there are just connectors to respective end point components, though many of those may have inserts in the connector that can be pulled out to free the wire contact and wire.

Ford changes its door wiring in the same year. 1994

Hello. I've got an interesting predicament. As I posted in a previous thread, my drivers side door was falling apart. Instead of fixing it, I decided to get one from the junkyard. After getting it home and getting the old door off, I found that the new door had larger plugs on the wires that...

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