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Front suspension advice

JDFBear

Member
Joined
January 9, 2021
Messages
28
Reaction score
13
Location
Tulsa, Ok
City, State
Broken Arrow, OK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer Sport
Over the past month i have been through hell with this suspension. it started as the brakes, which turned into bearings, i didn't tighten a bracket tight enough and i lost a bolt on the way to work. my company had it towed to our performance shop, i ended up getting a new bolt and installing it myself, then i discovered my upper ball joints were history it took me 2 weeks to get those replaced . since all of that this truck rides like crap. i feel every bump on the road there's noise almost a bearing one. i had my coworker drive it today to see what she thought she is bettor at cars than anyone i know she said something isn't right and i need OT park it till i can have it check out,. i know it needs a front end rebuild its a 99 with 122K miles and pretty much original everything. i know the shocks are dead, the tires are pretty cracked i just don't have the funds to do everything let alone pay a shop . is there any tricks or something i may not of done to cause this noise and rough ride? and no the hub nut is not to tight and i tightened the UC bolts when the truck was on the ground
 



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"Hell", or just, it's at that age where several things are starting to wear out? I am wondering if this is the first time you've owned an SUV this old. I went through the same before, different SUVs.

I've put a HUGE amount of repair time and nickel/dime expenses into my '98 for what few miles I put on it these days. Okay, not really huge, I'm being a drama queen, the fact is that it was less money/year than my newer vehicles suffered in depreciation alone, then I also don't have full comp insurance on it any longer so a little more saved there, offset by the bad fuel economy, lol.

Granted, I use it when I want to haul some load, or when it's nasty salty winter roads, or off-road, so it bears the brunt of wear, saving other vehicles from that.

Regardless, brakes are going to need done on any vehicle from mileage, or salty roads, or time taking its toll.

Ride quality? Yeah, these always rode horrible. I've had mine since new and it was a busy ride then until there was a load in it, then as it aged, ride increased a lot, except it lost handling with wearing shocks/springs/bushings/etc. Restore all that to new parts and it rides busy again like new, rough ride but handles a lot better, which matters more to me because where I am, most roads are hills, curves, and potholes. Granted softer shocks are better for potholes.

Noise, either it's a bearing or something else, seems like you just have a lot going on. If you can't DIY these repairs, frankly it is not cost effective to keep a 2nd gen explorer at this point.

My '98 only has 105K miles, maybe closer to 110K by now. I've had to re-do front suspension, one wheel bearing and another is due for it, this is typical for any SUV this age and these in particular, much past 100K mi. SUVs are harder on suspension parts than cars.

If your shocks are original, yes definitely they probably should have been replaced twice by now.

Tires? I don't understand this. Tires are kind of universal, I mean the age of the tires and the brand/rubber-compound/environment determines how well they hold up, not really related to being an Explorer.

At the same time you wrote that you don't have funds and all else equal, it is more expensive to keep any SUV on the road, from purchase new, till the grave, and especially so with ours once they get past 100K mi. and several things are due for replacement.

Tricks, depends on what is rough about the ride. 23 year old shocks, many would consider far past due for replacement. You have to locate the noise for better advice about that. You may have done more work than you mentioned as you kind of tacked on the end of your post, "hub nut" and UC bolts" without us seeing any prior mention of related work.

If you decide to keep it and invest money, I'd start with the tires. A great suspension doesn't help much if you have a tire failure or loss of traction from old/hard tires and wreck. Brakes would be second priority, you need to be able to stop. Ball joints would be 3rd priority, you need the hub (and bolted on wheel) to not come off during driving. Bad ride... that's just discomfort but a lot of details about what you consider bad, on what types of roads, could be needed to tune in a subjective improvement in that.

It's also possible that based on your vehicle ride preferences, that there's nothing that can be done to bring it up to your standards. It's a semi-short frame, torsion bar and leaf spring, solid rear axle vehicle. It is impossible for it to ride as well as a modern SUV, or even (most) cars of the same era as it.

With all the above written, I don't know your needs. Do you need an SUV enough to pay extra for it and extra for repairs when they get older? I noticed you joined the forum about a year ago. If you bought the '99 not too long ago and it was inexpensive, that's because there are several things that are likely to need done to one at this age, depreciating their value and making them very much a DIY project or else repair costs over a few years, exceed the vehicle value.

Ultimately, my overall impression from your post is that you should figure out what the noise is and get that fixed, as well as any other glaring issues with it, so it is more marketable, sell it and get a car instead, will be easier on the budget, except for wacky covid used vehicle pricing right now. This is just considering all your options since you are not happy with the situation as it is.

If you instead just want to focus on one problem with the vehicle at a time, then it is better to be more specific about that one problem alone, and others will chime in about what they did to theirs. It is also likely that there are existing topics in this forum, for most of the issues you face.

Good luck!
 






"Hell", or just, it's at that age where several things are starting to wear out? I am wondering if this is the first time you've owned an SUV this old. I went through the same before, different SUVs.

I've put a HUGE amount of repair time and nickel/dime expenses into my '98 for what few miles I put on it these days. Okay, not really huge, I'm being a drama queen, the fact is that it was less money/year than my newer vehicles suffered in depreciation alone, then I also don't have full comp insurance on it any longer so a little more saved there, offset by the bad fuel economy, lol.

Granted, I use it when I want to haul some load, or when it's nasty salty winter roads, or off-road, so it bears the brunt of wear, saving other vehicles from that.

Regardless, brakes are going to need done on any vehicle from mileage, or salty roads, or time taking its toll.

Ride quality? Yeah, these always rode horrible. I've had mine since new and it was a busy ride then until there was a load in it, then as it aged, ride increased a lot, except it lost handling with wearing shocks/springs/bushings/etc. Restore all that to new parts and it rides busy again like new, rough ride but handles a lot better, which matters more to me because where I am, most roads are hills, curves, and potholes. Granted softer shocks are better for potholes.

Noise, either it's a bearing or something else, seems like you just have a lot going on. If you can't DIY these repairs, frankly it is not cost effective to keep a 2nd gen explorer at this point.

My '98 only has 105K miles, maybe closer to 110K by now. I've had to re-do front suspension, one wheel bearing and another is due for it, this is typical for any SUV this age and these in particular, much past 100K mi. SUVs are harder on suspension parts than cars.

If your shocks are original, yes definitely they probably should have been replaced twice by now.

Tires? I don't understand this. Tires are kind of universal, I mean the age of the tires and the brand/rubber-compound/environment determines how well they hold up, not really related to being an Explorer.

At the same time you wrote that you don't have funds and all else equal, it is more expensive to keep any SUV on the road, from purchase new, till the grave, and especially so with ours once they get past 100K mi. and several things are due for replacement.

Tricks, depends on what is rough about the ride. 23 year old shocks, many would consider far past due for replacement. You have to locate the noise for better advice about that. You may have done more work than you mentioned as you kind of tacked on the end of your post, "hub nut" and UC bolts" without us seeing any prior mention of related work.

If you decide to keep it and invest money, I'd start with the tires. A great suspension doesn't help much if you have a tire failure or loss of traction from old/hard tires and wreck. Brakes would be second priority, you need to be able to stop. Ball joints would be 3rd priority, you need the hub (and bolted on wheel) to not come off during driving. Bad ride... that's just discomfort but a lot of details about what you consider bad, on what types of roads, could be needed to tune in a subjective improvement in that.

It's also possible that based on your vehicle ride preferences, that there's nothing that can be done to bring it up to your standards. It's a semi-short frame, torsion bar and leaf spring, solid rear axle vehicle. It is impossible for it to ride as well as a modern SUV, or even (most) cars of the same era as it.

With all the above written, I don't know your needs. Do you need an SUV enough to pay extra for it and extra for repairs when they get older? I noticed you joined the forum about a year ago. If you bought the '99 not too long ago and it was inexpensive, that's because there are several things that are likely to need done to one at this age, depreciating their value and making them very much a DIY project or else repair costs over a few years, exceed the vehicle value.

Ultimately, my overall impression from your post is that you should figure out what the noise is and get that fixed, as well as any other glaring issues with it, so it is more marketable, sell it and get a car instead, will be easier on the budget, except for wacky covid used vehicle pricing right now. This is just considering all your options since you are not happy with the situation as it is.

If you instead just want to focus on one problem with the vehicle at a time, then it is better to be more specific about that one problem alone, and others will chime in about what they did to theirs. It is also likely that there are existing topics in this forum, for most of the issues you face.

Good luck!
WTF. you have gone off on your own little tangent here, i don't even know why i bother with this forum. there's always the one that gives lectures that have nothing to do with the post. the noises and ride started AFTER doing these repairs. i was asking if there could be something i didn't do or need to do thst would be causing this. instead i get a lecture like i'm a kid that's never owned a car before.
 






Now that I stepped back for a minute, I recall (lol) that you are asking about a whole new front suspension.

Around this age, if all parts are factory still, it is typical to need new upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and "maybe" control arm bushings, if not just replacing the whole control arm to get a new one that already has new bushings and ball joint in it.

Your sway bar end links may be shot, nearly rusted through or the bushing degraded, and sway bar (itself) bushings may be due for replacement. The labor to replace these is greater than the parts cost. You really have to DIY on a tight budget.
 






WTF. you have gone off on your own little tangent here, i don't even know why i bother with this forum. there's always the one that gives lectures that have nothing to do with the post. the noises and ride started AFTER doing these repairs. i was asking if there could be something i didn't do or need to do thst would be causing this. instead i get a lecture like i'm a kid that's never owned a car before.

If you only want us to focus on the noise, then don't mention other things! lol!

It's not a lecture at all, if you mention budget, to mention that these are harder on the wallet than a car, just the truth.

You have left out some details, trying to rant about too many things at once, instead of focusing on one thing at a time and giving more detail about that one thing, so the result is from that.

I can appreciate that you are agitated, I would be too, but if you don't like my post you can just ignore it. Maybe start over, being more focused about ONE issue and more detail about it? Noises and ride are two different things... usually.

We need more info, a higher SNR. If I am agitating you then I mean other people need more SNR, I have no purpose agitating you so I will just opt out of this topic.
 






If you only want us to focus on the noise, then don't mention other things! lol!

It's not a lecture at all, if you mention budget, to mention that these are harder on the wallet than a car, just the truth.

You have left out some details, trying to rant about too many things at once, instead of focusing on one thing at a time and giving more detail about that one thing, so the result is from that.

I can appreciate that you are agitated, I would be too, but if you don't like my post you can just ignore it. Maybe start over, being more focused about ONE issue and more detail about it? Noises and ride are two different things... usually.

We need more info, a higher SNR. If I am agitating you then I mean other people need more SNR, I have no purpose agitating you so will just opt out of this topic.
Well put
 






Tires- effective the ride. Tires have a 10 year life. Replace with 20k tires unless you do that mileage in a week.
Shock also controls the ride and bounce.
Because of limited funds , durlast upper control arms are not very expensive. Rock auto have good pricing. You uses cheap parts they usually fail at the same time.
Check your front suspension too see what you really need to replace. All these items are maintenance items.
 






Maybe you could share more info regarding the noise as that is where I'd be focusing my attention at the moment. Under what conditions does it happen? Can you tell the general area where it is originating from?
 






We tend to ‘lecture’ here because we get a lot of people who come in here having picked up a cheap Explorer thinking they got a steal and think they’re gonna ‘oil and gas’ it to 200k. Then they ***** when they realize it’s straight worn the **** out and that keeping one of these in good shape isn’t cheap unless you do all your own work. Then they take a swipe at our dear Explorers, call them pieces of crap, and disappear.

Not saying that’s you, but that’s what we deal with…so it tends to affect how we respond to certain things.

These things just ride tight. It’s a light pickup frame and suspension, and you’re going to feel every bump in the road unless your shocks are blown out.

As for the suspension components, you’re at the mileage where everything original is going to be totally worn out (especially at this age). Ball joints, maybe tie rod ends, sway bar links and bushings, control arm bushings, etc. Rip it all out and do it in one swoop. It’ll save you a lot of time and money in the long run. The suspension is only as strong as the weakest link in the chain, and if you run with a part that is worn, it’ll wear the good parts faster—and eat tires faster too. The saying ‘buy once cry once’ applies here.

As for the noise, we need more information. Speed or rpm dependent, what makes it better/worse, apparent location, do bumps affect it, etc
 






If you think there is a wheel bearing that's bad, load up each side of the vehicle in a tight highway speed corner. When my driver side bearing was bad, the noise stoped when all the weight shifted to that side on a banked highway corner. That's how I figured out which side was bad, I then bought a cheap moog wheel bearing assembly installed it and that fixed my problem. These trucks ride worse than most f350 and 450s I've driven it's just how they are.
 






If you think there is a wheel bearing that's bad, load up each side of the vehicle in a tight highway speed corner. When my driver side bearing was bad, the noise stoped when all the weight shifted to that side on a banked highway corner. That's how I figured out which side was bad, I then bought a cheap moog wheel bearing assembly installed it and that fixed my problem. These trucks ride worse than most f350 and 450s I've driven it's just how they are.
My explorer ride nice. The better the tire, the better the ride. I put some weight in the rear cargo area.' Which helps.
 






It’s why Ford advised driving them with such low tire psi—to soften the ride. Then the whole UHaul thing happened…

Some tires are better than others. I have Firestone Destination LE3s on one Ex and Yokohama Geolandar A/Ts on the other. The A/Ts are less forgiving

People came from cars and complained of such a harsh ride. I think 29psi on the door, but I run 32-33.
 






As for the suspension components ... Rip it all out and do it in one swoop
That's what I did at 180K miles, plus the steering rack & pinion. I used my O'Reilly's First Call account and parts cost was around $800. Local shop helped me and charged $300. Local tire shop charged $50 for realignment using same computer jig as Firestone uses for $120.
 






That's what I did at 180K miles, plus the steering rack & pinion. I used my O'Reilly's First Call account and parts cost was around $800. Local shop helped me and charged $300. Local tire shop charged $50 for realignment using same computer jig as Firestone uses for $120.
I haven't had any luck with the rebuilt racks on my 3rd unit but that has very little too do with ride, just handling.
 






It depends on your taste. I've driven cars for 25 years, then got an Explorer Sport. That thing was as dependable as anything I've ever owned. It made me look for only 2nd gen Explorers to replace it with after rust and 210K miles took it down.

Does it ride rough? Depends on what you are used to. I like the way they ride. I find them very predicable and enjoyable.

After 100K, any vehicle will need lots of repairs which become maintenance items at that point. Tires, brakes, batteries, alternators... even suspension items are all due after 100K miles on almost any make and model.

FYI -

1. 99 XLT 5.0, AWD, Gold, 180,000 miles, runs strong but has what I believe is an exhaust manifold leak that sounds like a lifter tick.
2. 98 XLT 4.0 OHV, 4X4, Black, 110,000 miles, rusted out underneath, blew a head gasket, I'm stripping it down to scrap.
3. 2000 XLS 4.0 OHV, 4X4, White, 82,000 miles, everything works and it looks great, but has an evap leak somewhere making the CEL light come on intermittently.
4. 2000 XLS 4.0 OHV, 4X4, White, 74,000 miles, looks good but lots of rust underneath, I have a new exhaust for it but the rear flange of the cat is rusted away, trying to figure out how to fix, needs brakes on all corners.
5. 2000 XLS 4.0 OHV, 4X4, White, 180,000 miles, big oil leak from rear main seal, just keep oil in it and let my son drive it 5K a year.
6. 2000 XLS 4.0 OHV, 4X4, Blue, 121,000 miles, front flange of cat is rusted away, trying to figure out how to fix, needs the rest of the exhaust and two tires.
 






It depends on your taste. I've driven cars for 25 years, then got an Explorer Sport. That thing was as dependable as anything I've ever owned. It made me look for only 2nd gen Explorers to replace it with after rust and 210K miles took it down.

Does it ride rough? Depends on what you are used to. I like the way they ride. I find them very predicable and enjoyable.

After 100K, any vehicle will need lots of repairs which become maintenance items at that point. Tires, brakes, batteries, alternators... even suspension items are all due after 100K miles on almost any make and model.

FYI -

1. 99 XLT 5.0, AWD, Gold, 180,000 miles, runs strong but has what I believe is an exhaust manifold leak that sounds like a lifter tick.
2. 98 XLT 4.0 OHV, 4X4, Black, 110,000 miles, rusted out underneath, blew a head gasket, I'm stripping it down to scrap.
3. 2000 XLS 4.0 OHV, 4X4, White, 82,000 miles, everything works and it looks great, but has an evap leak somewhere making the CEL light come on intermittently.
4. 2000 XLS 4.0 OHV, 4X4, White, 74,000 miles, looks good but lots of rust underneath, I have a new exhaust for it but the rear flange of the cat is rusted away, trying to figure out how to fix, needs brakes on all corners.
5. 2000 XLS 4.0 OHV, 4X4, White, 180,000 miles, big oil leak from rear main seal, just keep oil in it and let my son drive it 5K a year.
6. 2000 XLS 4.0 OHV, 4X4, Blue, 121,000 miles, front flange of cat is rusted away, trying to figure out how to fix, needs the rest of the exhaust and two tires.
i STILL HAVE MY 1ST CAR. and every other except one, that was total. newest car is 25 years old.
 






No second gen Explorer rides “nice”. T all ride like bricks, no matter what tires or new parts you throw at it, unless the new parts get rid of the t-bar front suspension.

How cheap were your wheel bearings? If they were under $75, I’d suspect them first.
 






3. 2000 XLS 4.0 OHV, 4X4, White, 82,000 miles, everything works and it looks great, but has an evap leak somewhere making the CEL light come on intermittently.
Same model - 2000 OHV XLS.
Two hoses connect to a plastic box below battery. The box stubs may crack. I sawed one off a fitted a new hose on both.
 






Are the later gen Explorers that much better? I have a 2005 with 206K on it. Has needed sway bar links for a while (cheap and easy DIY) and upper ball joints could be redone. Otherwise drives like the day I bought it new. Original tranny went to 140K. Only dissapointment was that the rear wheel bearing went bad around 90K. Never had that happen on any of the old vehicles I have owned including a slew of Triumphs.
 



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Are the later gen Explorers that much better? I have a 2005 with 206K on it. Has needed sway bar links for a while (cheap and easy DIY) and upper ball joints could be redone. Otherwise drives like the day I bought it new. Original tranny went to 140K. Only dissapointment was that the rear wheel bearing went bad around 90K. Never had that happen on any of the old vehicles I have owned including a slew of Triumphs.
All sounds normal to me
 






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