Front Timing Chain Tensioners...To do, or not to do.

[RichCresci]

I consider myself the best oil changer this side of the Mississippi, I can do brakes faster than you can spell brakes, Spark plugs like nothing, But can i change the timing chain tensioners on the 99 Mounty? It's my sisters car and she's trying to get rid of it. The truck is in great shape with the exception of the chattering death rattle:roll: which seems to drive even he most convinced buyers away. I'm 99% sure its just the front that's causing the sound and I'm debating trying to tackle the job myself. Does anyone have any input on the scenario or past experiences they'd like to share? Thanks!

 

[CDW6212R]

It's a big job, you have to use the $150ish tool kit, and it takes a good while, with plenty of patience. Read a few of the threads on here, there are lots of pictures and opinions. Regards,

 

[Gus Gorilla]

Although some will recommend against it here. It is possible to change just the tensioner guides and casettes and not the chains or sprockets and make the noise stop. Doing it this way means not removing the chain and no need for the tool to keep the engine in time. However, if the chain has been slapping around enough to wear it down then you'll have to change it too. I did mine and the only thing was the main chain tensioner was wearing and the spring piece could be pressed flat by hand. It's been about 20K since that and it's still quiet. It was a fairly long process and I had to make a few runs for tools but all went smooth.

 

[CDW6212R]

Do it right, get the tools and replace as many of those parts as you can, considering all the work it takes to get into it.

The main chain(timing chain(jackshaft chain)), it has a guide and tensioner which aren't the big problem parts. Yes those can be changed without unbolting the chains and the timing.

But the real problems are the plastic guides which the cam chains ride in, and those are molded to a metal surrounding plate. That cannot be removed without taking the cam chain off with it, and the jackshaft chain has to come off to get the cam chain off. I have read of several people claiming they changed certain parts and used no special tools. They even posted a picture or two.

The parts from Ford are under $200, less than $100 if you go cheap and leave most other things in there unchanged. The tools are required to properly replace the most needed parts. Don't go in there and just change one or two items that you see as bad. Do it right and using this forum identify the most important parts, get those and the tools before starting the task.

The external tensioners are easy and not hard, and those don't require special tools. If money truly is a problem for you, try to get lucky and do the two external tensioners. Those aren't bad to do, and not much time spent twice if you have to go back in for the deep parts. Regards,

 

[bluestream1]

Although some will recommend against it here. It is possible to change just the tensioner guides and casettes and not the chains or sprockets and make the noise stop. Doing it this way means not removing the chain and no need for the tool to keep the engine in time. However, if the chain has been slapping around enough to wear it down then you'll have to change it too. I did mine and the only thing was the main chain tensioner was wearing and the spring piece could be pressed flat by hand. It's been about 20K since that and it's still quiet. It was a fairly long process and I had to make a few runs for tools but all went smooth.

Correct me if I am wrong, but the chain(s) need to come out in order to change the cassettes. The primary (jackshaft) chain guide and tensioner can be changed without removing any chains, as well as the two external tensioners for the cam chains. If you are going that far into it, I would suggest changing the primary chain, as it will be stretched and weakend from use. You need to weigh this against your abilities as it is more work when you use the tming tool. The chain comes in kit 2U32-6D256-CA. I will scan the installatiion instructions to a PDF file on Monday, and maybe we can post this for people to have a look at before they make any decisions.

It's 38 pages long.

 

[RichCresci]

That'd be awesome! I don't wanna spend to much money because like i said i'm just trying to sell it, but if its easy and cheap enough maybe i'll just wind up keeping it. Those instructions would be a big help

 

[BrianDye]

Sounds like a PITA!
Good luck man, if you decide todo it, hope all goes well

 

[Gus Gorilla]

Correct me if I am wrong, but the chain(s) need to come out in order to change the cassettes. The primary (jackshaft) chain guide and tensioner can be changed without removing any chains, as well as the two external tensioners for the cam chains. If you are going that far into it, I would suggest changing the primary chain, as it will be stretched and weakend from use. You need to weigh this against your abilities as it is more work when you use the tming tool. The chain comes in kit 2U32-6D256-CA. I will scan the installatiion instructions to a PDF file on Monday, and maybe we can post this for people to have a look at before they make any decisions.

It's 38 pages long.

That's right, The primaries don't require removing the chain. That's all mine needed. It was obvious on mine that the main chain was the problem, as I said, the tensioner was easily compressed by hand. (thumb even, not full force) Say what you want about "change it all while your there" and "why do it twice" But when your a poor college student who borrowed all the tools, garage, supplies, and the money to buy parts, you do what you have to to get by.

 

[bluestream1]

You were lucky you still had a tensioner, many find their's is broken. The original tensioner had three "leaf" springs. The updated one has 5 springs and a more robust mounting bracket

 

[CDW6212R]

Just getting all of the parts off to get inside the timing cover is a very large job. To some that's a huge job.

Do not impose your judgment of your skills or budget upon others. Give others help with your experience, and try to help them, not assume that they need to do what you did.

I assume that people's time is far more valuable than their money, when the cost is under $200 and the extra time is very minor. To get into the timing cover is about 80% of the total time a person can spend doing the whole task. Why waste that time, and then be likely faced with having to do it all again for the real problem parts?

 

[bluestream1]

Gus, did you check out the balance shaft tensioner when you were in there? That seems to be a weak spot on these motors.

 

[bluestream1]

Richcresci, I have scanned the instructions into three PDF files: Disassembly, Timing procedure, and Assembly. Not sure how to post them here, but I can email them to you if you PM me your email.

If anyone can send me a procedure for posting these files into this thread, I will do it

 

[RichCresci]

Richcresci, I have scanned the instructions into three PDF files: Disassembly, Timing procedure, and Assembly. Not sure how to post them here, but I can email them to you if you PM me your email.

If anyone can send me a procedure for posting these files into this thread, I will do it

pmed. Thank you so much!

 

[BigDaddy75]

Richcresci, I have scanned the instructions into three PDF files: Disassembly, Timing procedure, and Assembly. Not sure how to post them here, but I can email them to you if you PM me your email.

Do you still have these PDF files? I would be very interested to see them before attempting this large procedure. Thanks!