Fuel issues?

[DFHcomputer]

2000 Explorer LTD, V6 SOHC...
OK, many posts about this issue, maybe mine is slightly different..
Car starts, runs, great. Once at normal running temp, on occasion, semi-frequently, with no pattern as to time, distance travelled, weather, outside temperature, or any parameter I can identify, the car just decides it won't idle. Just dies, usually at a stop light or busy junction... Upon trying to restart, backfires, struggles, like it's out of gas.
Leave it a few minutes, fires right up again. On it's REALLY hormonal days, it will continue to do this, even dying at speed (feels just like out of gas) - it will do it at medium revs, under load, coasting, just whenever it feels like it. Then it can go several days to a week with no problem whatsoever. Then, just as I'm thinking it was a temporary glitch, or a bad tank of gas, it'll start doing it again.....
From other posts, I've tried the following - cleaned IAC valve; never let it get below 1/4 tank of gas; seafoam every fill up; it's only a hunch that it's fuel-related...
A symptom to add - evidently a very slight coolant leak (never seen it dripping, but the smell of baked coolant when getting out of the car, and a minor top-up required every couple of weeks... dunno if the two issues are related....
So, what next to try folks? All suggestions gratefully received...

 

[corkey]

no check engine light ??

hmmm possibly could be a bad fuel pump,, next time it quits listen for the pump,

 

[DFHcomputer]

No CEL...

No check engine light, no overheat, all gauges good..... not sure I know what kind of noise the fuel pump should be making.... maybe I've just got used to it....

 

[DFHcomputer]

Any other ideas folks? Getting very frustrating and stressful - I love everything else about the car....

 

[drdoom]

When you first turn the key to ON, you will hear the fuel pump run for a second. That is like a prime. Some folks don't turn to START until this happens. Anyway, when it stalls, you should be listening for this. If you have trouble hearing it, get a helper, and pull fuel cap. Also what is the history of the fuel filter? PS you probably don't need the seafoam, but some startron on the other hand is good if you are using ethanol. The enzyme cleaning is so effective, if you haven't changed the filter, you will be!

 

[drdoom]

For your coolant leak, check thermostat housing and radiator. The best way is to borrow a pressure test rig. You can find the leak while the engine is off. Don't get discouraged, it can be fixed. There are dozens of Explorer experts on this board who are happy to help.

 

[2000StreetRod]

low fuel pressure?

I suggest that you check the fuel pressure: Ford Explorer Ranger Fuel pressure test procedure

You may also want to clean the crankshaft position sensor connector by disconnecting and reconnecting a few times. When the PCM does not detect the engine running via the crankshaft position sensor it disables the fuel pump to prevent a possible fire.

 

[DFHcomputer]

all great responses guys - will be trying these this coming weekend - fuel filter seems the cheapest and easiest place to start... (with the appropriate fuel line tool of course!!)

 

[DFHcomputer]

and as for the radiator/thermostat idea (for the coolant slow leak issue) - I know I can handle all that (changed out the radiator in my old '97 5L V8 mountaineer) - but I can't actually see where it's leaking from this time - didn't know if it was a common issue that was known.... all good ideas - thanks folks!

 

[DFHcomputer]

Further info - (it did it again yesterday, and took ages to nurse it home..) I've now noticed that the 'kickdown' doesn't work - ie - put your foot down to pass something - no response - and it feels like I'm pulling a heavy trailer - acceleration has to be coaxed, and it will slowly get to about 70mph - could this all be part of the same issue? Throttle position sensor maybe? Any more ideas? I'm starting with fuel filter etc this weekend....

 

[2000StreetRod]

TPS fairly reliable

The throttle position sensor (TPS) is fairly reliable although many replace it unnecessarily: Ford Explorer - Ranger TPS Test Procedure

 

[fast_dave]

The more grey hairs I get, the more I start with the easy and inexpensive stuff ;-)

When was the last time your Ex had a new, Motorcraft fuel filter installed?

When replacing one, it's always fun to take the old one, orientate it so that the fuel tank supply side is facing down, and allow the filter to drain it's contents into a clear class jar.

You will probably be shocked at what comes out - I know I was the first time I did it

Regarding the coolant loss.

If you can smell anti-freeze, but can't see it, start at the most likely place - the water pump.

Get below, and shine a flashlight on the "weep hole" beneath the water pump.

Hope that helps -

 

[DFHcomputer]

Updates - changed fuel filter, and so far, she hasn't sputtered to a halt - but as the wife pointed out, 8 days was the longest time the car had worked successfully without acting up, so we'll see....
As for the coolant leak - it seemed that one of the heater hoses going to the firewall was resting on a hot bit of the manifold, and had a pinhole leak - the leaking coolant was thus being boiled off, hence not spotting the leak - replaced the hose for a couple bucks, and all seems well with THAT issue for now.... so I'm left with the lack of 'kickdown' acceleration - but at least the car is kinda running OK (fingers crossed every trip though) and getting me to work and back... thanks for all the help guys!

 

[DFHcomputer]

OK - optimism is a dangerous thing - car ran fine all day; came home fine. On a cold start this evening, cranked for a while with no start - pressed gas pedal to help it start, and noticed that battery sounded very 'low/slow/sluggish' while gas pedal was pressed; on releasing gas pedal, turnover went back to a healthy battery sound. It eventually started fine..... then ran for about a quarter mile before dying. Left it off for a few seconds, turned key to 'on', heard the fuel pump, it started fine and got back home.
So, looking at fuel/electrical diagnosis - fuel pump, or bad ground connection? Pump draining battery when gas pedal is pressed? Fuel pump most likely cause of symptoms described in this thread? I've changed fuel filter, fuel pump relay, regular seafoam etc. The car runs fine when it's going, apart from the lack of rapid 'kickdown'. No CEL, no gauges telling me anything bad - its this intermittent moody dying, that feels fuel-related. Any further input would be much appreciated, before I drop the tank and look at the fuel pump.... thanks in advance...

 

[fast_dave]

Here's a few tips - Your mileage may vary ;-).

As my Ex (and it's subsystems - i.e. factory fuel pump) have aged, here's my preferred starting procedure. When not in a rush, I try to always first turn on my ignition to the point where I hear the electric pump prime the system. Then, when the pump stops priming, I turn the ignition to the start point and crank it over. 100% of the time the engine will start within one to one and a half cranks.

When I don't follow this procedure, that is the only time that once in a blue moon that I have to crank the engine over two to two and a half revolutions.

Your Ex is computer controlled and very sensitive to Voltage - How old is your battery? I have found that batteries have a service life that is 1-2 years LESS than the rated life. Bring it to one of the big box parts stores and have them load test it for FREE on a digital battery checker. The new digital battery checkers are spot on when it comes to testing batteries.

Are your battery terminals/battery wire connectors clean - and I mean SHINY clean. You will need to pull the wire connector off of the battery post terminal to be sure. This free & easy tip is very important and often overlooked.
Any buildup of the white fuzzy stuff will cause havoc on your computer...

Here's a simple test to see if your electrical connections are sound.
When it's dark out, (YOU) stand in front of your Explorer, and have a partner FIRST turn on the headlights, and then have your partner turn the ignition so as to turn over the engine. When the starter motor was cranking, did your headlights go dim OR did they stay on at a constant rate? If your headlights dimmed, all is well. If your headlights didn't dim, you have electrical connection issues. Where are the issues? I dunno - BUT start with the EASY stuff (i.e. direct connections at the starter solenoid and starter motor) and then work you way towards the harder/more complicated stuff. Look/feel for loose connections and electrical connections that have oil or anti-freeze leaking/dripping on them

Oh - for piece of mind - that you are getting correct observations, make sure that YOU are in front of the Ex when this test is performed

To make this test more applicable to your particular situation, I would perform this test when it's cold outside, and when your Ex's engine is also cold.