Full Foot Notch, Version 3, Rockwells and more | Page 8 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Full Foot Notch, Version 3, Rockwells and more

well here starts the 3rd version of my truck, right now the 1ton HP D60 was pulled, and the guy paid me for it, and then i paid for front and rear rockwells

so here is the planned setup for this version

-1992 explorer
-4.0V6 (when the engine goes ill decide what goes in, 350k logged miles and still goin)
-carried over from the last setup, chucks SAS hanger kit, and 12" lift springs, which puts me at 19" for that

whats new:
-Front and rear 2.5 ton REO/Military Rockwell Axles, Ujoint style axles
-4" welded perch/stand in the front
-larger perches in the back to compensate for the smaller springs, also welded
-Oversized Ladder bar setup to eliminate any axle wrap
-crossover steering, with possible later addition of hydraulic ram assist
-36" shocks all around(specifically the pro comp 9000's, but if you do research, they are the exact same as the ranchos minus the rancho sticker)
-Wilwood wheel/Hub brake setup all around, with a soon the be fab'd custom hydraulic/cable hybrid parking brake
-20x10" 7"BS custom Steel rims
-either 12.5R20 or 385/80R20 tires, the first one is 41 tall, and the second one is 46" tall, the lift should clear 46s

-later on down the road it may be 4linked in the rear, but thats another $2k to get done

should :eek: :confused: :eek: :confused: :eek: people :)
 



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I was thinking the pumpkin on the rockwell was a straight cut gear, meaning the top loading center section could be rotated 180 for ford side driveshaft. Also read in a 5.0 magazine in which they used a van heater box in a ranger to clear the small block without a body lift. But since you don't have a clearance problem with the front pumpkin, you could build motor mounts that are lower into the frame, like a lowbuy duece.
 



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yes its a straight cut gear, and hte center section can be rotated 180 degrees, so yes i can rotate it around, but its one of those, the way the transfercase is, if i ran ford setup and rotated the case around, the front axles would be the drive axle, yeah it may sound a little weird, but just trust me on this one

Eddie, would you happen to know which magazine and which month and all that so i cna read the article(unless you could scan it for me) , the van heater box still allow for AC or just heater only?
 






It still allowed for A/C. The article has been a few years, but it was a bout building a ranger 'lightening' project and used all currently available over the counter Ford Parts, can't remember if it was svt or some other ford development. Mustang days.
 












steering is dropped pitman arm connected to draglink, all 1ton TRE, and then a crossover steering arm precisely made for that axle, all laser cut brackets and all that, road tested for 5yrs on that design and not one failure
 






Why not full hydro? It'll be alot easier to steer some huge meets and you won't have to worry about the steep drag-link angle.
 






that thing is really wide.......
 






034x4 said:
Why not full hydro? It'll be alot easier to steer some huge meets and you won't have to worry about the steep drag-link angle.

if it sees any street time then full hydro is not an option. could kill someone
 






redranger4.0 said:
if it sees any street time then full hydro is not an option. could kill someone

I don't understand that??? What am I missing??? :confused:
 






If the engine dies while cruising down the road, you still can control the steering mechanically without the power assist. If you have full hydro, then the steering control is gone when the engine (and hence the hydraulic pump) dies.
 






to anyone reading, to clarify previous people, right it is the conventional steering, people were asking about full hydro steering, complete full hydro steering is illegal on the street(for the most part unless like a driveable crane), i most likely will go hydro assist when i can get the $$, for the most part its getting the mounts and getting them welded, then its just off the shelf parts like a 2x8 Lions ram from Tractor supply, the hyro hoses, and possibly a charlene steer valve or get the stock box drilled and tapped
 






as for being wide, right now from hub surface to hub surface it is 80" with the wheels and offset i should be pushing 92-94 inches wide, creaking near legal limit
 






that is so cool that ur near the legal limit. but what tires r u gonna put it on
 












street legal, will have wheel/hub brakes at each wheel instead of a pinion brake, mechanically controlled steering, will be within the legal width (...somehow) , truck height....its pretty much FL.. anything goes
 






got my wheel bearings yesterday, to put it into perspective, the ID on the small wheel bearing, is 2.6" :D
 






well, to get this rear driveshaft to work, it looks like imma have to drop $140 to get a 1410 yoke onto the explorer shaft, cause of the small tube diameter, they are actually having to take a yoke and machine it off another, and then weld that onto the tube, since they actually dont make a 1410 yoke that small for my driveshaft, so in theory its a custom-custom driveshaft

or does anyone know if a 2wd tailshaft will bolt onto the explorer tranny without having to tear down the tranny to do so, IE remove Tcase and remove tailshaft and bolt in 2wd end so that i can install the M37 case?(projected plan if possible)
 






can anyone inform me about hte tailshaft thing, reallllllly need to know
 






I dont think you can. I seam to rememebr hearing the guys that swap 2wd to 4 wd have to swap trannies or outpus hafts and tail housing. Fords not nice enough to make things easy for prople to modify. Im not 100% sure on this though as I have never had a 2wd truck :D
 



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Tailhousing will have to be swapped as well, and possibly a few innards if I'm not mistaken. Not a simple swapover.
 






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