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Gas consumption is bad on 2010

Until you deploy actual math and calculate how many gallons you put in and how many miles you drive, you are pissing up a rope. The DIC means close to nothign and can't be trusted, the calculate is different if you are in trailer mode V's normal..

No one on here said to actually calculate the mileage by hand. But let's start replacing parts before any real empirical data is known.
 



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Yea math... There are so many variables here it's ridiculous anyways even a Prius will get bad milage the way I drive. It's funny to see the difference between claimed efficiency and what u actually get... Never close on any vehicles I have driven even brand new cars I'm like huh 13mpg? Wth I could get better milage from a model t. Ford kinda crazy.
 






I run a small engine shop and that is how i got started on e3 plugs. Customer brought them in with mower. They do work well in small engines, most help is at idle i feel, gives it that extra umph till the next rotation. I will say this with cars, they have to be the exact plug due to there design, if they where to short even by a small amount those where the wrong ones, in the 3.0-4.0-5.0 they where a exact match in length Maybe thats what made them not help? being coupled with low ohm wires and still no change, thats just strange, now the sparkplug side of this is for sure the whatever side of this but the low ohm wires should have helped, in any application. Ive never changed the coil pack, no real reason unless you have massive compression no need the stock have plenty juice. No im not saying your wrong or they didnt work or whatever just curious as to why they didnt. As far as the fouled looking crusty one that doesnt make sense either when my merc fps went out i had to force it to a gas station and when i went in to repair it the cylinders where full of fuel all the way up into the lower intake. I cleaned those plugs and there still in the truck today getting 17.5-18 daily driving a rough 70% city 30% high way drive. Again not trying to say they didnt work for yall just wonder why since ive had such great results in three differnt applications, and its not like my truck where running bad before the swap it was just for better mpg.
Not bashing you but...The e3 plug makes no sense there is only 1 spark coming from electrode to ground if there was arching to all 3 grounds how amazingly great that would be. Pull them out and check them, probably way dirty they will not reach anywhere close to 1500 degrees to clean deposits especially all 3 grounds. The way I see it that's a normal copper core plug with two extra decorative grounds that are useless. The only way the other 2 will work is after the first ground gets dirty it will go to the next. Now my main complaint is the core because copper core plugs are like a dollar. The grounds don't wear but the electrode does. I wouldn't put irradium plugs in a small engine either just wouldn't be right needs copper why not e3? I would take an irradium plug well past 100k no problem that e3 core would be disinigrated by then. Not to mention the increased ohms on the e3 that will draw more power possibly going to go through coil packs faster and just overall doesn't make sense on a modern engine I would absolutely never use on a 2020....on a carbured motor with distributor low rpm lots of fuel big power umm use the e3 idk not for fuel injected coil fired ecm car... I was at vato zone told my friend ase certified friend I was getting the e3 plugs....oh boy did he laugh at me...he said something along the lines of your not going to be able to use them without the best ignition parts because our systems don't put out enough power to take advantage of the e3 plugs it would run worse....now. Let me school anyone listening..
If u want a hellofa great plug that actually adds power go with Autolite AR5383 it's what the nitro drag guys swear by and by far my favourite it's got a Yttrium-Enhanced giant core rated at like 1500hp that e3 would burst into molten garbage.... Still seriously a big fan of e3 not bashing
 






Hello again everybody. Thanks for the interaction really got good information form this thread. Just to be clear, I was not comparing my 2010 to the 2019 one as technology changes and also age plays a factor. Bringing up the 2019 story is just to tell you what had happened to me before my head started thinking about the actual issue at hand. I usually fill up my tank with 60 liters (15.8 Gallons) and mainly I'm driving in the city and the tank lasts for 250KM (155Miles). So if we do the math then this would give 4KM/L or 9.8 Mile/gallon (hope that I got this correctly:)) then after the discussion with the friend I realized that the car can do better (surely not compared to 2019 model). So I did my search and stumbled upon this great forum and read some threads where it says that this car shall give (in worst case scenario) 12 MPG and that is when I started this thread to get the help of the experts.
I have followed the preliminary recommendations by the people who replied and yes I can see a difference but not I want to measure this difference before I conclude anything. Happy with the car but it seams the maintenance is much more demanding than Japanese cars which I always drove. But to be honest I'm glad that I made the switch as I like the car and it is more comfy for me and the family and I can use it for long trips. Thank you all
 












Dear all
First I would like to thank all those working here in this forum to help others like me. I used to be an owner of of a honda accord and my dream was to by a big SUV but cash was an issue. I saw an add for a 2010 explorer for sale and luckily had the money but I was a bit skeptical about the condition of the car but after checking it out I decided to buy it as it was in a well taken care of condition. Since I was a 4 cylinders car user and now shifted to a 6 cylinders car I did not know much about its car consumption until yesterday when I was talking to a friend who happens to have a 2019 explorer where I realized that a tank shall last for about 337 miles wile mine only makes 155 Miles per tank. I was shocked that is is down to half. The car is running perfectly but inefficient.
My request to the experts here can you point me to what needs to be checked and or replaced to be able make the explorer more efficient as you know gas prices are getting higher and higher and mechanics are never honest and they try to squeeze every penny out of your pocket.
2- the other issue that I need assistance with is that my car computer broke and I replaced it with a used one where I had the other reprogrammed and everything works fine except one small thing. The car battery comes in even though there is no problem with the alternator. When I click on the reset button inside the car the battery light turns off but after 10 min it would light up. Any hint would be appreciated and thanks again for your assisyance
Hi, just wanted to start by saying thank you for your support and involvement in the explorer forum. Congrats on your brand new-ish 2010 exploder.
Dear all
First I would like to thank all those working here in this forum to help others like me. I used to be an owner of of a honda accord and my dream was to by a big SUV but cash was an issue. I saw an add for a 2010 explorer for sale and luckily had the money but I was a bit skeptical about the condition of the car but after checking it out I decided to buy it as it was in a well taken care of condition. Since I was a 4 cylinders car user and now shifted to a 6 cylinders car I did not know much about its car consumption until yesterday when I was talking to a friend who happens to have a 2019 explorer where I realized that a tank shall last for about 337 miles wile mine only makes 155 Miles per tank. I was shocked that is is down to half. The car is running perfectly but inefficient.
My request to the experts here can you point me to what needs to be checked and or replaced to be able make the explorer more efficient as you know gas prices are getting higher and higher and mechanics are never honest and they try to squeeze every penny out of your pocket.
2- the other issue that I need assistance with is that my car computer broke and I replaced it with a used one where I had the other reprogrammed and everything works fine except one small thing. The car battery comes in even though there is no problem with the alternator. When I click on the reset button inside the car the battery light turns off but after 10 min it would light up. Any hint would be appreciated and thanks again for your assisyance
Dear all
First I would like to thank all those working here in this forum to help others like me. I used to be an owner of of a honda accord and my dream was to by a big SUV but cash was an issue. I saw an add for a 2010 explorer for sale and luckily had the money but I was a bit skeptical about the condition of the car but after checking it out I decided to buy it as it was in a well taken care of condition. Since I was a 4 cylinders car user and now shifted to a 6 cylinders car I did not know much about its car consumption until yesterday when I was talking to a friend who happens to have a 2019 explorer where I realized that a tank shall last for about 337 miles wile mine only makes 155 Miles per tank. I was shocked that is is down to half. The car is running perfectly but inefficient.
My request to the experts here can you point me to what needs to be checked and or replaced to be able make the explorer more efficient as you know gas prices are getting higher and higher and mechanics are never honest and they try to squeeze every penny out of your pocket.
2- the other issue that I need assistance with is that my car computer broke and I replaced it with a used one where I had the other reprogrammed and everything works fine except one small thing. The car battery comes in even though there is no problem with the alternator. When I click on the reset button inside the car the battery light turns off but after 10 min it would light up. Any hint would be appreciated and thanks again for your assisyance
First of all congrats on your brand new-ish 2010 exploder, they are definately loved by many. Secondly, if you have a 2010 and you know someone with a 2019 that is getting better gas milage then that's 100% normal. As we drive our vehicles day in and day out we break them in and build up all sorts of junk slowly into our intake manifold, air intake housing, heads, valve pans, block, etc.... so the difference may be as simple as a dirty fuel filter or air filter, or as massive as sludge build up in the crankcase and major build up in the valves, rods, pistons, heads, intake, mass air sensor, 0² sensor build up, etc... I would honestly say that if you are getting 90% or better fuel economy of what a brand new 2010 explorer with that exact same engine, model, etc ...calls for directly from the manufacturer then you are probably not going to increase the fuel milage of the vehicle by much without adding aftermarket fuel savings parts I have a 1998 Ford Explorer 5.0L v8 302 that's 2wd stock and I only changed the rear end to a 3.73 and put a K&N air filter insert into the air filter box (meaning I didnt put a whole new intake tube and box and filter kit in, just the filter swap) and I have a 3" body lift and a 3" suspension lift running aluminum 16" Mickey Thompson classic 3 style rims and wrapped them with 315/75/16 tires or "35's" and I still get about 14 mpg in the city and right at 15mpg on the hwy. I beleive the factory specs say it should get 14 city/ 16hwy I THINK! Not sure tho...all I'm saying is this, change the cheaper things first to ensure you dont just have a dirty air filter or a dirty fuel filter, take these few things into consideration and change them or check then to ensure your covering all bases first before thinking of using mod chips or enhanced fuel saving performance parts....ALSO, MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE DIFFERENCE IN FUEL TANK SIZE BEFORE DETERMINING YOUR MPG'S. A 2019 MAY HAVE A LARGER FUEL TANK THAN A 2010. THE 2010 MAY HAVE A 15 GAL WHERE AS THE 2019 MAY COME STOCK WITH A 20-25 GAL TANK.! Below I've listed a handful of parts to check, clean or change to ensure your exploder is operating at its peak performance (assuming you dont have an internal engine defect or damage causing the fuel mpg lag...)
1.) Fuel Filter
2.) Air Filter
3.) PCV Valve
4.) Oil & Filter Change
5.) Serpentine Belt
6.) O² Sensors
7.) Catalytic Converters
8.) Tires & Proper Alignment & Alignment Parts
9.) Proper Tire SIZE
10.) Mass Air Sensor
11.) M.A.P. Sensor
12.) Idle Control Sensor
13.) Intake Cleaning
14.) Axel Diff. Fluid Change
15.) Trans. Fluid Change
16.) Timing Belt / Chain
17.) Spark Plugs & Wires
18.) Compression Check
19.) Fuel Pressure & Regulator & Pump Check
20.) Check Pullys On All Belt Driven Parts
21.) A/C Clutch & Pulley Engage/Disengage
22.) All Hubs & Spindles & Bearings
23.) Air Intake Tubing & Housing
24.) All Relays & Fuses (Ensure Everything Works Properly And Isn't Underperforming)
25.) Bad/Old Fuel (Or Dirty Fuel Tank)
26.) Vacuum Advance Line & Tubings
27.) Alternator & Battery
28.) Fuel Rails & Injectors
Etc... Any or all of these things and a bunch more internal parts can fail or be performing poorly due to wear and maintenance. If you go thru these things and check and clean most and replace the things that are sensibly affordable then you should find the culprit behind the mpg lag. Good luck and congrats on the new ride, hope you figure it out soon and it ends up being a great vehicle for you as mine has been to me. It's sad that my wife's 2009 Dodge Avenger has had a busted A/C and already needs multiple things since 2017 and my 1998 Explorer still has cold A/C and is always ready to go no matter how hot or cold the weather is, they heat will suffocate you and the A/C will chill your bones and its 22 yrs old yet our 11 yr old car has had a bad suspension, A/C and overheating problem since it was 7 yrs old or so. They just dont make em like they used to, and that's a fact. Good luck and I hope you figure it out and it lasts forever.
 






I picked up 2mpg on my f150 by checking my brakes. They were giving no sign of wear or trouble but I checked them anyway. Only drive about 5.5k per year. Took a monkey wrench for a grip and a ball joint remover to beat the slide pins out. Dried up grease, no rust. No not me, bought it from a dealer like that. The claim was they had done a brake job prior to sale, guess brake grease really is different than moly.
This is actually a great point, the s10's actually have a part you can but thats like a spring that goes behind our pads because of there horrible brake sticking issue. Also very true engines are tuned for certian type of plug and that should give you the maximum allowed performance period, but as far as i can tell e3 uses various metal in there plugs per vehicle they are for, so my 96 plug and my 06 plug are not made from the same metal although they look the same. but e3s whole deal maily is the electrode design. its shape helps to get the spark down into the cylinder better, its the same thing old hot rodders used to do. They would put super thin washers or dab of solder on the spark plug to clock the open end of the spark plug toward the center of the engine to get it to the fuel air mixture faster and better. e3 does it by keeping the area underneath open. An with our computers they should pick up the better spark and adjust for it as you cant adjust timing on them the computer does it. So with all this being said my pops is looking for another truck right now so when he gets it i will be doing a much more detailed test of oe vs low ohm set up and see what happens and changing a few things and see if that was what made the difference. Who knows maybe i would get even better mpgs if i went to oe stuff. because the only one of the 3 that i did this on that had oe on it before i put on the low ohm was the 06 4.0, it had motorcraft wires plugs before low ohm, the 01 and 96 did not.
 






Was the computer you installed correct for the vehicle? Is the check engine light on? I'd try a different computer. There's something wild going on if you are getting under 10 mpg, like all six injectors stuck open. I don't think there is a scenario where a 4.0 could burn that much gas if it is actually getting driven. I own a 2010 Explorer V6 4x4, and the absolute worst I've gotten was 11.x mpg, and that was pulling 2500 lbs into a 30mph headwind on the interstate. Let us know what you come up with.

- Joe
 






Do those 4.0 have a fuel pressure regulator? (No idea, personally, hence the question).

I can tell you that a bad FPR will give some ****ty mileage, and some other side effects, as well.
 












Ok refreshing the post. I thank you guys for the contribution. Really thankfull for your assistance. My problem is that here in the middle east they don't have people like you guys with the experience. I took my car to a repairshop only for Ford and explained the problem. They called me 2 days after and told me they fixed it. Asked them what did you do they said they put fuel injector cleaner. It worked for a week. Not the best but got more mileage this cost me 100 USD. Im tempted to take it to the dealer but the problem is the dealer wants to charge me 200 USD just for the check up and later i have to pay the parts and labor.
 






Ok refreshing the post. I thank you guys for the contribution. Really thankfull for your assistance. My problem is that here in the middle east they don't have people like you guys with the experience. I took my car to a repairshop only for Ford and explained the problem. They called me 2 days after and told me they fixed it. Asked them what did you do they said they put fuel injector cleaner. It worked for a week. Not the best but got more mileage this cost me 100 USD. Im tempted to take it to the dealer but the problem is the dealer wants to charge me 200 USD just for the check up and later i have to pay the parts and labor.
Do it again. If you had improvement then you have dirt. Filter plugged up again I would guess. Cleaner loosens gum in the tank. Half a cup of acetone does quite a job . Do not spill it on your paint. Cheaper than cleaner as an alternative. Cleaner, acetone, cleaner, etc. until mileage stays up.
 






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