Gear Pattern

[gavin]

I ran into issues with that stupid POS Yukon kit when I did my D35 some years ago. Seems they can't get their **** straight on it for some reason (I guess go figure... they seem to think this Dana axle was made by American Motors Corp., which hasn't been in existence for over 23 years now )

Mine had a wrong inner pinion bearing (I.D. was too small), and completely lacked any pinion slinger shims (only including shims that went behind the inner bearing race inside the housing). Fortunately I lucked out as I had to bring the pinion in a hair, which allowed me to reuse the original slinger shim, plus one added shim behind the race. My original bearings were like new as well.

As for shim locations, mine had none between the bearings and carrier, they were all between the bearings & housing. Any chance your carrier was swapped over from a Jeep rear D35?

*whew* glad I'm not the only one then.
the pinion bearings seem to be correct, and both carrier bearings are correct.
removed the inner pinion race and installed the slinger between the race and housing.

guess I'll hafta take a wild guess at pinion depth then... no numbers etched onto the pinion head, except for the "serial number" to match it with the ring gear. And that wasn't even etched on, looked like it was written on with a pencil. It disappeared as I took a sanding sponge to see if the numbers were hidden beneath the black crap the gear is covered with.
Only other numbers are stamped, and none would relate to pinion depth.

no clue what may have been going on with the front; I did buy the truck used with just shy of 100k, and it was previously used as a commercial vehicle. Although there were shims between the carrier bearing race and housing also.
Which is why it really confused me that shims fell off with the carrier bearings when I pulled 'em.

I think I may have some shims that may work. Leftovers from my rear install kit, plus some shims from my solid pinion spacers.

Unfortunately I forgot to check the pinion depth of the original pinion; by any chance do you know what the "nominal" pinion depth is? I can't seem to find that number anywhere. Even my workshop manual doesn't list pinion depth.

 

[gavin]

so I think I figured it out.... but it makes no sense, because it's not correct compared to the FMS.

you apparently shim the inner pinion bearing race. Not the inner pinion bearing. how ridiculous! Considering I spent.... 3 hours trying to get the original inner bearing race removed. And it wasn't pretty.

but still doesn't make sense... the OEM pinion had a shim between the inner pinion bearing and the pinion head.

wtf.... :frustrate

atleast that's what somebody said on a thread at the ranger station
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85690

 

[4x4junkie]

That large slinger behind the pinion head IS the pinion depth shim. On a Jeep rear D35, the depth shims are behind the race. Yukon I guess apparently chooses to give the same shims for both axles that go behind the race, while overlooking those that might've needed a thinner slinger shim (forcing them to either omit it, and risk mal-lubrication of the pinion bearings, or source another (thinner) one elsewhere, such as from a D30)

As for the original pinion depth, usually the easiest place to start is to reuse the original shim set from the old gears. 90% of the time, where you need to be with the new gears is within 0.007" or so of where it was originally.

 

[gavin]

That large slinger behind the pinion head IS the pinion depth shim. On a Jeep rear D35, the depth shims are behind the race. Yukon I guess apparently chooses to give the same shims for both axles that go behind the race, while overlooking those that might've needed a thinner slinger shim (forcing them to either omit it, and risk mal-lubrication of the pinion bearings, or source another (thinner) one elsewhere, such as from a D30)

As for the original pinion depth, usually the easiest place to start is to reuse the original shim set from the old gears. 90% of the time, where you need to be with the new gears is within 0.007" or so of where it was originally.

sounds about right for the conclusion I've come up with. :biggthump

 

[Fifty150]

On my '07 F-150, after regearing, all that I had to do was enter the new gear ratio with my SCT X3.

I also have a 1997 Mercury Mountaineer.

With the '97, how do you make the correction? I would like to re-gear, however, I don't want to throw off the speedometer, odometer, and transmission shift points.

 

[gavin]

On my '07 F-150, after regearing, all that I had to do was enter the new gear ratio with my SCT X3.

I also have a 1997 Mercury Mountaineer.

With the '97, how do you make the correction? I would like to re-gear, however, I don't want to throw off the speedometer, odometer, and transmission shift points.

have to replace the gear on the VSS in the t-case