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Going synthetic? Good idea?

Viggen

Member
Joined
October 7, 2007
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City, State
Chicago
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 Explorer XLT 4.0
Hello to all viewers.....

I have a 2003 X 4.0, with a few bolt on mods, and am looking to go fully or partially synthetic at my next oil change. I have about 50K on it, and it has been a daily driver for this length of time. Currently everything is in great shape with no oil leaks.

I've read some articles where going synthetic will cause the seals to shrink and cause leaks. The reason for my impending change is due to the benefits synthetics have.

The bottom line is this.........Is it a good idea at this time to go fully synthetic, or maybe a compromise in a nice blend?

Thanks to all responders.


Viggen
 



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I've read some articles where going synthetic will cause the seals to shrink and cause leaks. The reason for my impending change is due to the benefits synthetics have.

Nonsense; an old wive's tale.

The bottom line is this.........Is it a good idea at this time to go fully synthetic, or maybe a compromise in a nice blend?

A blend is a waste of money. By all means go full synthetic. Be sure to choose a high quality oil. Also, be sure to use a good filter.

Good luck ....
 






I've read some articles where going synthetic will cause the seals to shrink and cause leaks.

supposedly the reason some people see leaks when they switch to synthetic is that there are pre-existing leaks that aren't as apparent with conventional oil.
 






I usually just do the Jiffy Lube experience. I will see what they carry as far as synthetics. I think I remember them offering Pennzoil.

If I can squeeze out 1 or 2k miles in the interval with this stuff, I'm all for it then.

Thanks to all
 






Be very careful when using a "Jiffy Lube" type place. Its much better to change it yourself.

Good luck ....
 






I agree doing it yourself is a much better option and do get a quality filter it pays in the end:salute:
 






I don't think the Jiffy Lube places will drop a transmission pan. Some have been caught not replacing the oil filter either. One place got into trouble when they didn't tighten the drain plug, and caused somebody's engine to seize. Do a search in some of the theads. Either way, going synthetic is a good choice.
 






I would never use Jiffy. Find a local tech or do it your self. As for oil type. I see no reason for syn unless you plan on doing 10000 mile oil changes or you are in harsh conditions. I had over 250000 on my 95 X using Casteroil and Motorcraft filters with no issues in Florida.
 






Points well taken. I will have to look at some private shops in the area.

I've always gone to Jiffy at about 5000 miles, and never had a problem with them, but I understand the concern. I share it with every place that works on my pig.

I like the idea of longer intervals, and keeping the engine cleaner with syn. Since I have about 35 extra horsepower bolted on, I would like to keep that up and strong with some good oil.

Thanks to all
 






What mods do you have for the extra 35 hp.???????
 






What mods do you have for the extra 35 hp.???????

Agreed, because I think we would all love to have an extra 35 HP.
 






Estimating at crank numbers only, and conservatively guessing at the manufacturer's claims........( I have not been to a dyno yet for the actual rwhp ) On the intake I put on Brute Force CAI, C & L maf housing and TB spacer from Airraid. I have a 25 % ASP crank pulley on the engine with an Accel coil pack, JBA wires and Autolite iridium plugs gapped at .058. The tune is a custom 93 octane street from Henson.

Overall the midrange on the 4.0 is absolutely terrific with these mods.
 






Estimating at crank numbers only, and conservatively guessing at the manufacturer's claims........( I have not been to a dyno yet for the actual rwhp ) On the intake I put on Brute Force CAI, C & L maf housing and TB spacer from Airraid. I have a 25 % ASP crank pulley on the engine with an Accel coil pack, JBA wires and Autolite iridium plugs gapped at .058. The tune is a custom 93 octane street from Henson.

Overall the midrange on the 4.0 is absolutely terrific with these mods.

Where did you get the C&L MAF housing and what size is it? Is that the one that looks just like the 2003 housing and would mount to the stock air box?
 






Is that the one that looks just like the 2003 housing and would mount to the stock air box?

If you are going to use the stock air box, why on Earth would you want a more efficient MAF housing?
 






If you are going to use the stock air box, why on Earth would you want a more efficient MAF housing?

I am not trying to connect to the stock air box, but find the appropriate components to follow the path that I have outlined in this post. BEFORE EVERYONE SAYS IT CAN'T BE DONE, PLEASE READ THE ENTIRE THING!

I have done some comparing, looking at photos of the 2003 and the 2004 and can not find but two differences (the MAF housing and the stupid air silencer). There are no good and TRUE CAI for the 2004 and I am trying to create an option for myself...just like Donner has done with bumpers, RoadBully with the body lift, and everbody else who had made contributions to the customizations of a vehicle that was restricted by products marketed.
 












Cont6act Todd at Zabteck Performance ( http://www.zabteck.com/ ).

He can help you.

Thank you. I just browsed the website and they have exactly what I was looking for. I will get ahold of them, but first I must get my funds in line. But again, thank you.
 









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these 10 min oil change places normally carry synthetic oil and diff oil, but i've never seen one carry snyth tranny fluid.

so i changed the tranny and power steering (also ATF) myself. there are some great threads here on how to do that. changing the ATF to synthetic yielded the best result out of all the fluids, in terms of "feeling" a difference behind the wheel.

i'm going to do the oil myself next time, switching from castrol syntech to mobil 1 synthetic 15,000 formula.
 






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