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Got A Quick Question about 2000 Explorer

boaia5650

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer
Hi, got a quick question. i had a 2001 explorer and ended up selling it and getting a blazer and hate it, and i want to get another explorer but dont have a lot of $, but i was looking at a 2000 explorer with 265k on it but it sounds mint and had all the schedules matance and everything.

Think its possable to get it to 300k before i could drop a new crate engine in it? dont have the $ now but will in like 6 months. most people telling me hell no, but figured id ask

heres the car http://longisland.craigslist.org/car/524310658.html

Thanks
 



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Gotta give people some time to respond, this is kind of a slow hour for forum-ing. The ford 302 is a very reliable engine and several people have made it past 300k. It sounds like it was taken care of well but I would do a carfax on it to make sure and ask for some maintenance receipts.
 






my bad just got a **** load of people telling me not to wasete my $ but i really want this thing + gotta decide before somone else does..

you think its like a rare possability, or do i got a decient chance
 












thanks, yea i know (32,474 a year DAM) but i love explorers, looking at it i want it bad, but i dont wanna get screewed, but in a a few months i would be happy to dump some cash into it, like that body style a lot better than the newer ones
 






It's not just the motor, you should probably expect to have to rebuild the tranny as well. The good news is with that much mileage he must have done a large portion of highway miles. Which is much better on an engine and tranny than 100k in the city.

I would run the gamut of tests
1) vacuum tests
2) Compression
3) inspect tranny fluid
4) Oil in exhaust? or anywhere on the back of the truck that is a sign of seal/ring problems
5) listen closely to the valve train you could be a startup away from a broken timing chain.


5.0 is a good engine, and there are plenty of stories of people taking them up to 300K and beyond. But the fact is there is no way to tell the condition of the engine and tranny from over the web. You need to check it out closely and even then there are no guarantees but heck that goes for any car, even a low mileage one.

You should be able to get it very very cheap, as most people would probably only consider something like that for parts or a platform to fix up.
 






oh that was an other question what would be a reasonable offer? 1600?
 






I would run the gamut of tests
1) vacuum tests
2) Compression
3) inspect tranny fluid
4) Oil in exhaust? or anywhere on the back of the truck that is a sign of seal/ring problems
5) listen closely to the valve train you could be a startup away from a broken timing chain.

.

to be 100% i dont know **** about cars, except that i like this one. so i wouldnt know where to start with the 1,2,5
 






I had a 5.0 Mustang that I bought with 40,000 on it and ran it to 318,000 before it was stolen. I ran Mobil 1 15-50 in it as long as I had it, changed the oil one time in the life of the car. It burned about a quart every 1000 miles, so that was about the equivalent of a change every 5000 miles. I said that to say if he has documented service records for the life of the engine, you'll probably get past 300,000 no problem.

oops...

You can usually hear a timing chain that has a little slack in it. Take it to a good mechanic, let him put a stethoscope to it, and tell him you're worried about the timing chain.

If you have the opportunity to inspect the truck, call the seller up one morning and ask him not to run the vehicle for a day or so, if he can. Go up and crank it. Listen carefully in the first few seconds of that cranking. You don't want to hear any tapping or clacking at all. Even one or two seconds of tapping could be valves or lifters with some play in them not getting enough oil. Ask him what weight oil he's putting in. With that kind of miles, he should be putting in a pretty heavy weight, 10-40 or 20-50, unless he's in a cold state or something. Watch the exhaust carefully within that first couple of seconds too. You don't want to see any smoke that looks heavier than steam, particularly heavy grey or blue smoke.

Hope this helps.

John
 






A compression check can be run by anyone with a $30 gauge from autozone. Using the same $30 gauge you can also perform a leakdown test. Any competent mechanic should be able to tell you the status of the engine.

for a good offer price I would start with THIS SITE and start to widdle the price down (or up) with any and all defects or lack thereof.

Try not to make this an emotional decision, that will always get you into touble. If you know little about cars and have no interest in it, you may want to steer clear of this sale. Cars need maintanence, older cars need repairs, if you need to rely on someone else to do those repairs it will nickel and dime you to death. However if you are the type that wants to learn more about cars and have an open mind to try new things then it can be a great learning expirience to take a vehicle like this and repair/maintain it into great operational shape.
 






Well I just learned something. And now I feel pretty stupid. Of course, nobody, including me, wanted to take the valve cover covers off my LS, then then ignition coils, then the spark plugs, to do a compression check.
 






Well I just learned something. And now I feel pretty stupid. Of course, nobody, including me, wanted to take the valve cover covers off my LS, then then ignition coils, then the spark plugs, to do a compression check.

it can be tricky on some of the newer hemi style head engines where you have to remove the valve covers (no I'm not specifically talking about the POC dodge even thought they built quite the marketing scheme, they are not the only company with that head design)
 






Every shred of common sense that I have would tell me not to buy something with that many miles. There are better deals out there, its not always about the money.
 






dam thanks for all the responces. i guss im not getting it, i if go to look at it il prob buy it im going to stay away from it
 






i just kbbed it and its like 4300, i can prob get this for like 1750, but todd said it right

""""Every shred of common sense that I have would tell me not to buy something with that many miles.""""
 






Sorry, I didn't mean that to come off as mean or disrespectful. I could very easily see that turning into a money pit. Engine/Transmission rebuilds are not cheap, bearings/hubs, ball joints, it all adds up. I think you'd be much happier spending more for a car and it being more reliable.
 






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