Grinding Noise

[Youn0469]

Greetings:

I have noticed a grinding noise coming from what I think is my front passenger side.
When I am moving at lower speeds, 0-45mph, I notice the noise. it sounds almost like when your brakes are going bad and you hear the metal on metal grinding however, it is not the brakes because they are fine and I don't hear any more grinding or feel anything in my pedals when I am braking.

I took it for a spin tonight and at first the noise was minimal, not problem. I made a tight turn, close to lock to lock and then it got like it has been before. I don't know if the turning has anything to do with it or not.

I have taken the time to play around with my truck so I can try to figure out what it is.
--The acceleration is fine, I am not hearing any clacking noises or experiencing any slipping of gears.
--The braking is fine, I'm not feeling any pulses in my brake pedal or my steering wheel.
--My alignment is good. I can accelerate and I'll go straight forward.
--I lifted my front tire to see if it might be one of the rods or the ball bearings by trying to move the tire side to side and up and down and I did not experience and major give beyond a fraction of an inch.

I'd appreciate any thoughts on how I can get this diagnosed before it becomes a MAJOR problem. I'm a college student and I depend heavily on my explorer to get me from point a to point b.

I own a 1997 Explorer with 116,000 miles with a 5.0 V8. It is the Eddie Bauer edition.

 

[03XLT4X4]

Greetings:

I have noticed a grinding noise coming from what I think is my front passenger side.
When I am moving at lower speeds, 0-45mph, I notice the noise. it sounds almost like when your brakes are going bad and you hear the metal on metal grinding however, it is not the brakes because they are fine and I don't hear any more grinding or feel anything in my pedals when I am braking.

I took it for a spin tonight and at first the noise was minimal, not problem. I made a tight turn, close to lock to lock and then it got like it has been before. I don't know if the turning has anything to do with it or not.

I have taken the time to play around with my truck so I can try to figure out what it is.
--The acceleration is fine, I am not hearing any clacking noises or experiencing any slipping of gears.
--The braking is fine, I'm not feeling any pulses in my brake pedal or my steering wheel.
--My alignment is good. I can accelerate and I'll go straight forward.
--I lifted my front tire to see if it might be one of the rods or the ball bearings by trying to move the tire side to side and up and down and I did not experience and major give beyond a fraction of an inch.

I'd appreciate any thoughts on how I can get this diagnosed before it becomes a MAJOR problem. I'm a college student and I depend heavily on my explorer to get me from point a to point b.

I own a 1997 Explorer with 116,000 miles with a 5.0 V8. It is the Eddie Bauer edition.

It could be your ball joints.

 

[Youn0469]

That might be a part of the problem, I did hear a clicking sound when turning. I have replaced those before on a dodge grand caravan. An easy afternoon fix if you ask me.

But it still wouldn't fully explain the grinding...would it?

 

[03XLT4X4]

That might be a part of the problem, I did hear a clicking sound when turning. I have replaced those before on a dodge grand caravan. An easy afternoon fix if you ask me.

But it still wouldn't fully explain the grinding...

Yeah its not hard at all. Now is the noise coming from around the wheels or what? If so have you checked your hubs?

 

[Youn0469]

I am pretty sure the noise is coming from the wheels, or close to it.

I was just reading about how to check if the wheel hubs are bad, this might also explain why my ABS light is on in my dash counsel.

I'm thinking I will need to get this figured out this weekend if it is my hub or bearings.

 

[03XLT4X4]

I am pretty sure the noise is coming from the wheels, or close to it.

I was just reading about how to check if the wheel hubs are bad, this might also explain why my ABS light is on in my dash counsel.

I'm thinking I will need to get this figured out this weekend if it is my hub or bearings.

My 95 sport had bad bearings and my ABS light came on changed the bearings and unplugged the battery to reset the truck and I was go to go keep me posted and let me know how it goes holler if you need something be happy to try and help more if I did at all

 

[Youn0469]

So, this may be an odd question...its been a long day. Do wheel hub assembly's contain the bearings??

So if I go to fix the wheel hubs all I will need is the wheel hub assembly?

 

[03XLT4X4]

On the explorer the bearing sits in the hub. In the store I'm 99.99% sure its two different parts. So you'll have to buy it separate.

 

[Youn0469]

Im thinking that won't be a problem. There are a couple stores within a few miles of me that carry the parts I think I need.

The hub assembly goes from about $100-175 and the bearing rings go for about $10 or so...

Before I get knee deep in grease I am actually going to get this double checked by a couple people I know who know more about trucks than I do.

I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[jremington59]

If you jack up one side at a time, put your hands at 12 and 6 and move in and out it will be easy to tell if the bearings are gone. If there's grinding there should be a lot of play...

 

[gavin]

So, this may be an odd question...its been a long day. Do wheel hub assembly's contain the bearings??

So if I go to fix the wheel hubs all I will need is the wheel hub assembly?

the wheel hub and bearing assy is a single unitized piece.
So yes, you only need the hub/bearing assy.

Also, it's possibly the cv-joint at the t-case end of the front driveshaft, depending on how loud the noise is.

 

[03XLT4X4]

hey bud

How that X coming along?

 

[Youn0469]

I haven't been able to actually tear things apart, I'm not off for a couple days.

Although I am beginning to think it might be the CV. I started it up yesterday, no noise. I take a right turn and I hear some faint noise. I take a left turn and then I hear a lot of noise when I am turning and when I am going straight.

I also noticed that the outer tie rod on the drivers side was loose to where I could move it a hair.

 

[03XLT4X4]

I haven't been able to actually tear things apart, I'm not off for a couple days.

Although I am beginning to think it might be the CV. I started it up yesterday, no noise. I take a right turn and I hear some faint noise. I take a left turn and then I hear a lot of noise when I am turning and when I am going straight.

I also noticed that the outer tie rod on the drivers side was loose to where I could move it a hair.

Oh wow good thing you caught it while you did. Glad you weren't going down the road and the tire pass you up. And serious damage happen beyond repair.

 

[Youn0469]

So, I finally got the problem narrowed down. It was my passenger side Wheel hub assembly that needed replacing...got it on, and installed for $200.

Does anyone know why the ABS light is always on? It never turns off in my truck, any thoughts?

 

[gavin]

was the light on prior to replacing the hub?

 

[Youn0469]

Yes. I've never seen it off since I have owned it. Are there any recalls in regards to the ABS Sensors? Does this happen to a lot of people?

 

[gavin]

wiring, connection, or something with the hub you haven't replaced yet, my guess.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Get the ABS codes read by a scanner to answer your question. The specialized scanners that can read ABS are not available everywhere like the engine code readers so you may need to pay a dealer or brake shop to figure it out. Throwing parts at the truck is not a good answer.

For what it is worth, the light on means ABS is disabled. Regular brake function is not changed so you can still lock up and stop on dry surfaces. Some offroaders intentionally turn off the ABS. Just makes stopping dangerous in wet/icy conditions.

At no cost other than some time and effort, you can clean the other sensors and see if that helps the situation. You have 3 sensors (2 front hubs, 1 rear on differential). ABS errors from metal shaving buildup on the sensor in the rear differential is not uncommon since it is slightly magnetized.