Harmonic Balancer Installation

[chrissm14]

I recently replaced my harmonic balancer on my 04 xlt 4.0L. Heres the procedure I followed:

Removed belt, radiator and fan
Used HB puller to remove the old puller
Removed the old oil seal
I couldn't get the old woodruff key out so I just reused it.
Oiled the new seal, and pressed it into the bore
Put motor oil inside the back of the new HB to aid with installation
Slid new HB on about a half inch by hand, then inserted old HB bolt into crank to push the HB onto the shaft.

This is where it gets interesting. I had to remove the new HB because I didnt press the seal in far enough the first time. I backed the crankshaft mounting bolt out about a half inch and used the puller to pull it off the shaft until it bottomed out on the bolt. Then I removed the puller, and i was surprised because I was able to pull the pulley off by hand the rest of the way.

After I pushed the seal farther back into the bore, I reinstalled the new pulley and used the bolt to pull it onto the shaft. once tight, I torqued it to 33 ft/lbs, then tried to turn it an extra 90 degrees as per the haynes manual. I was holding the pulley with a strap wrench while tightening the bolt so I may not have been able to turn it the full 90 degrees, but it was at least 45degrees.

I put everything back on including a new belt and started it up. Everything seemed to run fine. Today I drove it to work, and heard a slight rattle noise under the hood. I looked and the tensioner is bouncing up and down again, though not as bad as it had been with the old HB. Also noticed that the HB seems to have a slight wobble to it. I pulled the belt off, and spun all my pulleys. The idler pulley bearings are noisy. Also the pulley directly below the coil pack has alot of in and out play and it doesnt spin freely. What pulley is this?

Im going to replace the idler pulley, the pulley beneath the coil pack, and probably the tensioner soon. My question is, could any of this contribute to the slight wobble in the HB? if not, what could the cause be? The HB I got from Rock Auto was Dorman Part #594-236 .

By the way the truck is running great, still a slight shudder at idle occasionally, but better than it was with the old HB

Thanks!

 

[chrissm14]

Does anyone know how much clearance there's supposed to be between the back of the HB and the timing chain cover? I have about 1/8" gap there maybe a little less. If the HB isn't seated all the way, could that cause it to wobble?

 

[shucker1]

Chrissm14,

There should be a shoulder on the crankshaft nose that the balancer will bottom out on thus preventing further rearward movement. The bolt keeps it all pushed together.

Most parts like balancers and pully bearings have a very mild interference fit (.001-.0005) or it could be size to size.

I.E. the balancer female shaft side is actually smaller then the crank.

If you had a set of dial calipers you could take reading from both crank nose and both sides of the balancer bore and see if you have a tapered bore or something that looks wrong.

Where did your new balancer come from? Hopefullly not used....



Chris

 

[chrissm14]

Chrissm14,

There should be a shoulder on the crankshaft nose that the balancer will bottom out on thus preventing further rearward movement. The bolt keeps it all pushed together.

Most parts like balancers and pully bearings have a very mild interference fit (.001-.0005) or it could be size to size.

I.E. the balancer female shaft side is actually smaller then the crank.

If you had a set of dial calipers you could take reading from both crank nose and both sides of the balancer bore and see if you have a tapered bore or something that looks wrong.

Where did your new balancer come from? Hopefullly not used....



Chris

I got the balancer new from Rock Auto. Its the Dorman 594-236. I don't have a dial caliper but I'll probably get one soon. I didn't look very much into the female end of the balancer, I just put some motor oil in there and assumed thats why it slid on so easily. I was able to slide it on about a 1/2 inch, then i "rocked" the balancer side to side while pushing and that got it on about another 1/4" or so. Then i put the bolt in and cranked it down.

When I noticed my belt start squeaking, I drove it for about 2 weeks before i realized it was the HB and parked it. My balancer wasn't coming apart yet, just a little bit of deterioration in the rubber part, and the weight ring on the inside was broken off. The crank didnt have any burrs or seem worn when i took it off, but i did not have a caliper to measure it so its a possibility. What seems more likely, the crank being worn down or a defective new balancer? Could the fact that I reused the old woodruff key cause problems??

 

[shucker1]

I would say reusing the old key was fine. It's not a driving part. It's only there to locate things properly.

In you previous thread you said the new balancer wobbles while running? Is it axial
(in a circular direction) or is it lateral (balancer\ belt pathway face) does not seem to stay straight?

If the crank nose had issues you should see them right away. Usually seen as dark spots in the normally clean polished area.

Machinest term called Fretting.

Chris

 

[chrissm14]

I would say reusing the old key was fine. It's not a driving part. It's only there to locate things properly.

In you previous thread you said the new balancer wobbles while running? Is it axial
(in a circular direction) or is it lateral (balancer\ belt pathway face) does not seem to stay straight?

If the crank nose had issues you should see them right away. Usually seen as dark spots in the normally clean polished area.

Machinest term called Fretting.

Chris

Its hard to tell as its only a slight wobble, but I would say its lateral. The wobble isnt bad enough to throw the belt off track, but you can see it doesnt seem to be spinning true. Also the tensioner is bouncing up and down slightly, but nowhere near as much as it was with the old balancer. My power steering pump pulley has alot of play in and out, and noisy bearings. Idler pulley just has noisy bearings. Im going to replace these soon along with the tensioner assembly.

While I was reading other posts last night, I saw a few that said to use a washer or 2 with the old balancer bolt when pushing the new balancer on. Otherwise, the bolt will bottom out before the balancer is seated all the way on the crank. Is it necessary to use the washers? Ive got maybe 3/32" - 1/8" of space between the plastic part on the back of the balancer and the timing chain cover.

 

[shucker1]

Like I said the shoulder on the crank acts as a stop.

You can't go any further.

The old balancer bolt should have a washer on it big enough to act as a pushing force on the new balancer throat.

If it didn't what would be the point of the bolt?

However, anything is worth a shot.

As for running true laterally I would say there should be no visible offset while spinning.

I'm not sure how your budget is but I like to go by the motto "You pay peanuts and you get Monkeys".

Chris

 

[chrissm14]

just wanted to post an update, i replaced the idler pulley and belt tensioner assembly. At first everything ran smooth, no tensioner bouncing. A few days later I noticed that the tensioner has begun to bounce again. Ive been driving it daily with no issues, actually just got back from a 400 mile round trip vacation. I still have an occasional shudder at idle, not sure if its related.

If I did not get the HB retaining bolt tightened all the way, could this cause the wobbling? I havent noticed the wobble getting any worse. I made a tool out of wood that i will use to hold the crank in place while i make sure the bolt is tightened to spec. Ill be trying this tomorrow hopefully.