Hayden High Performance oil cooler set - thoughts | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Hayden High Performance oil cooler set - thoughts

08EddieCA

Well-Known Member
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Location
CA
City, State
Los Angeles, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
08 & 03 X (Eddie B & XLS)
Hello,
I have an 2008 ( 125k on the odo) that has transmission problems. I'm having a new trans installed in the next four weeks - rebuilt from Shift Rite. The trans oil cooler that came with the tow package is a small trans cooler. I would like to replace that OEM trans oil cooler with the Hayden kit (pt# 516) (Rockauto) for "heavy duty" trans oil cooler. I'm wondering if I should keep the OEM trans oil cooler and place the Hayden kit "in line" while not removing the original cooler with a bridge set up. Does any one feel this is totally redundant? I know the original oil cooler must be flushed if I keep it in-line with the Hayden cooler.

Any negatives from this set up? My goal is to keep both coolers - the original and the Hayden kit.
Due to the heat here in CA I want to set up my new trans from suffering from heat degradation that the heat can cause. I know about the inline filters too.

I simply want to ensure the new trans enjoys the benefit of a new oil cooler x 2.

Thoughts from the group?
Nick
 



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Hi Nick. Begin with a new external filter in the lines for the ATF. That's critical for any vehicle that has had a transmission problem, debris is spread throughout the lines and coolers. The radiator has a cooler in it also, and it's better to add a filter instead of flushing the system out, or do both.

To add a cooler you are correct, the best way is to add one in series with the others, inline as you said it. Your transmission has a thermostat bypass built into it, so you cannot over do the cooling, it won't allow the ATF to ever get too cool.

Be sure to take your time with all of the line connections, to be sure they don't leak, and that they stay tight for many years. Avoid band clamps on the steel lines, note the OEM lines have a nipple area that is larger than the line, so the clamp doesn't blow off. Without that(like a straight cut line), the slightest loosening of a clamp would let the pressure blow the hose off.

Barbed end fittings are the easiest way to make line connections. Those hold rubber hoses well with clamps, and Pushlok fittings(the yellow plastic ring type) can be used without clamps.

You can try to use the easy to buy, pre-made fuel lines at a parts store, those when bent make great lines, if the lengths are just what you need. Those have flared ends and brass fittings are available to join them etc. If you try to go that way, be sure to place an o-ring in each flared female side, to stop leaking(they usually are not perfectly formed to mate with the other connection end).
 






Would you place the Motorcraft inline filter on the out line before the coolers or after the coolers? I'm inclined to place it after the oil coolers.
 












Yes, place the filter on the output from the trans.

If you aren't sure which is which, you can remove one rubber hose at the front where they go to the OEM cooler, and just for a second run the engine and shut it off. If you choose to do that, be sure to cover both exposed ends. It's easiest to add another short length of hose where the first was taken loose, an place both into a stable pan or jug etc.
 






I understand. I think I saw someone flush their trans in that manner. Doesn't sound hard to figure out which line is the outflow line. Thank you.
 






Yes, some professionals do pump ATF out that way to lesson the mess of dropping the pan. You can do that until the fluid flow is interrupted, it burps etc, when air is being pumped. I've done it once, just to see how long it would take, and how much trouble it is to fit an extra length of hose and arrange the pan. I prefer to simply go slow with draining a pan, it isn't hard to drop a pan without spilling ATF.
 






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