Head gaskets and HVAC questions

[SuperKirby]

About a year ago I replaced the head gaskets, heads, rockers, and a few other things in my 93 Ex. All was well until about 3 months ago. I noticed the one day my exhaust looked a little steamy again. Curious, I checked my overflow tank and it was empty. Filled it up and as soon as I did it started bubbling. Just a little disappointed. As far as I can figure I must have not cleaned up the block as well as I thought I did.
So, now I'm gearing up to do it again. I'm hoping to put it off about a month until it warms up at least a little.
I learned a lot doing it last time - like the value of ratcheting wrenches and copper anti sieze. But I have a few questions and also want to tackle a couple other issues while I'm at it if I can. First a couple questions...
I ordered my gaskets and parts from Rock Auto and plan to again. I thought I ordered the heavy duty gaskets all around, but when they arrived none of them were. I already had everything torn apart and wasn't able to wait the time it would take to send everything back and order new, so I went with the cardboard stuff. In order to avoid this mistake again, can someone provide specific links and part numbers to the right parts? It looks like either FelPro or Victor Reinz make a good set of gaskets but not sure which ones to order so I get all the gaskets to do a complete job AND get the heavier ones.
Second question - My AC doesn't work. I suspect the refrigerant is low and it's still R11. From what I understand converting to R134a is expensive so I don't plan to do it. As I recall last go round the compressor was a pain to work around, so I'm considering pulling it altogether, as the pulley has also started a pretty annoying squeal. Can I just disconnect the hoses and pull it all out and get a shorter belt? Is there a part number for the belt or is this a bad idea?
Last but not least, I've owned almost all Fords. One thing about them I love is the heaters, especially living in MN. My Explorer is the first one that isn't good. The PO put a new heater core in it and I changed the t-stat. I've noticed the temp guage fluctuates quite a bit, and never gets above the "N". Maybe this is normal. I know the blower motor or switch needs replaced, but I don't think this is reponsible for the lack of warmth.

I know I covered a lot here but figured it was better than starting 10 different posts. Any help that can be provided would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Vince

 

[natenkiki2004]

The non AC belt is:
Carquest Micro-V: K060806
NAPA: NBH 25060806
Gates: K060806
Goodyear: 4060805
Dayco: 5060805

I would recommend having the AC system evacuated by a professional, then you can start unbolting and cutting things to gut it out. I went as far as getting a new non-AC airbox and it adds soooo much more room on the passenger side to access the engine. Also worthwhile to remove the condenser and drier up front.

 

[SuperKirby]

Thanks for that. Did you just get a scrap one or get one new? Or is that something you have to fab?
Also, I've never pulled an AC system before. If I pulled the condensor and dryer, is there anything else that goes with that? Or basically if the hoses go to it I can remove it? It does seem like it could really free up a whole lot of room in there to get it all out.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Look at the compressor, anything connected to it (and anything that's connected to THAT) can go. The condenser is in front of the radiator, drier is the can-shaped thing attached to it. 2 hoses run away, one goes to the compressor and another goes into the air box into another set of coils called the evaporator. If you decide to go that far, you can grab a heater box from a non-AC Ranger and remove the evaporator coil. I won't go into much more detail since there's how-to threads on this forum but this is what the non-AC box looks like:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/464376/vehicles/1991 Explorer/Pictures/P1010380.JPG

I found mine on a 1990 Ranger.

 

[SuperKirby]

Awesome information. Thanks.

Now I just need the gasket part numbers.

 

[2stroke]

Maybe you already have, but are you certain the cooling system is bled properly, and no hoses or connections are leaking?

 

[SuperKirby]

I haven't officially burped the system, but I don't believe that's it. I was hoping for a leak but if I have one I can't find it. The steamy appearing exhaust coupled with the bubbles and the fact that I'm now filling up my overflow tank about once a week and I feel pretty safe saying it's a head gasket issue. If there's a possibility I'm wrong I'm all for hearing about it. I can't say that I'm excited to tear into it again.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Check your plugs. If one cylinder is getting the coolant, you'll see a very clean plug. Check your oil too, if it's really bad, it could be leaking into the cylinder, down past the rings and into the oil.

Personally, I'd park it until I found out where it was going. Coolant washes oil away and lets things rust up pretty easily.

 

[SuperKirby]

I'll pull the plugs on it when I get a day off. Unfortunately parking it isn't an option as it's my DD. I'll hopefully get parts ordered in the next few days and get it done.

 

[2stroke]

The fact that your truck's heater doesn't get hot, and your temp gauge fluctuates tells me you have air in the cooling system. I would think you would easily be able to tell you were burning coolant if its taking the whole overflow every week. If you smell the exhaust it would smell really sweet compared to normal. You may or may not see it in the oil, but you will know for sure with the plugs. It seems with this weird hot one day, cold the next weather we have been getting in central MN, the exhaust is always steamy, even mine is. I'm thinking a lot of condensation happens inside the engine and exhaust. Where in central MN are you? I saw a non AC ranger in a junk yard months ago (not sure its still there), but you could check if you are close. Its French lake auto south of Annandale. There is also a MINT explorer there that I will be going back to for parts. If you ever need fuel injectors, there's 4 of them in the glove box.

 

[SuperKirby]

Maybe I'm wrong then? I would sure like to be wrong at this point. I was figuring with how steamy the exhaust looks, the fact that I'm going through coolant like I am and and the bubbles in the tank was all indicatory of a head gasket.
I'm about 20 miles SE of St. Cloud. I've heard a lot about French Lake Auto but never been there. I need to go someday. If you ever go again let me know, you should go right by me, or awful close to it anyway.

 

[2stroke]

So you are around Clearwater or Big lake? I go through there a lot. I grew up in Annandale, and go there every couple of weeks. I bring in a lot of scrap to French lake, but don't know when the next time I will. Scrap metal price is way down right now. I was also thinking of getting rid of all the AC crap. All it does is cluster up the engine bay, its not like I'm ever going to fix it. I've never even had a vehicle with working AC.

As far as the coolant, I really couldn't tell for sure over the internet. I know from experience it can seem as though you are loosing coolant, as well as plenty of other problems from air in the cooling system. I have a hard time believing you are taking that much though without some kind of leak. I'd just hate to pull everything apart to find out the whole time it was a tiny hose leaking on the exhaust manifold so you didn't see any drips. I've had it happen, twice actually, and its the reason I got rid of that car. Well it was the straw that broke the camels back. Mercury cougars are not very reliable cars.

 

[SuperKirby]

Becker. Next time you're coming through this way there's a standing invitation to swing out and see what you think the problem is. I feel pretty safe saying you know a lot more than I do about all this.

 

[Turdle]

Did you have the heads checked for cracks?

You could pull the spark plugs to "read" them. Lay them out in order. If you are burning coolant the plugs will show it.

While they are out, do a compression check, writing down the values for each cylinder. If you see low compression on the cylinder with a very clean spark plug--bingo.

 

[2stroke]

Becker. Next time you're coming through this way there's a standing invitation to swing out and see what you think the problem is. I feel pretty safe saying you know a lot more than I do about all this.

I really don't know that much, I just want you to be sure before going through way more work than is necessary. I do know that if you are burning a whole tank of coolant a week, it would be pretty easy to tell by the spark plug.

 

[larrydd999]

The above is why I bought a coolant pressure tester. With 5 older vehicles and a boat with circa 1973 twin diesel engines it saves me a lot of time and money. It may not always tell me where the leak is, but it verifies whether or not there is one.