I recently came up with what I think is a pretty decent solution for this "loose headlight switch" issue.
As many who have braved the journey to the instrument cluster know, the root of loose switches is usually cracked screw bosses. The panel around the instrument cluster is polycarbonate, which is great at absorbing impact, but tends to be brittle so it can chip easily if it's not very thick. Due to a variety of causes, these screw bosses can crack and leave you with loose headlight and/or dimmer switches which are annoying if not disruptive.
After a couple iterations of super glue repairs didn't hold up over time, I recently attacked my panel with more in-depth plan.
1. Make new, thicker screw bosses from Nylon. I used 1/2" spacers from the hardware store. Instead of thread-cutting screws, I epoxied in brass thread inserts to allow the use of machine screws for holding in the switches.
2. Remove and replace cracked screw bosses. I used a Dremel to do this -- be careful how far you grind and wear glasses and a dust mask (the polycarbonate dust is nasty). I suggest leaving the "guide pin" bosses in-place to help with realigning the switches and use as added support for the new screw bosses.
3. Attach new Nylon screw bosses. Epoxy works fairly well to meld everything together, but I had one boss break free upon initial reassembly. To reattach, I had success with Loctite #406, which is basically a super glue specially formulated for these plastics.
4. Adjust screw bosses and/or switches to fine tune positioning. Nothing fancy here; if your bosses aren't perfect (mine sure weren't) you'll have to grind away material to make clearance for the switch housing and get the mounting tabs to lay flat. I just used a Dremel and a lot of guess and check.
5. Reassemble. Now you can install your switches with cap head machine screws! I didn't apply any kind of thread locker so I'll have to see if the screws loosen up from vibration over time.
And from the front it looks totally stock!