Heater Control valve aggrivation

[jhoch]

I have had my explorer for a little under 3 years,
and in that time i have replaced the Heater control valve three times (going on 4 tomorrow) due to the part developing anti freeze leaks.

Has anyone else been through something like this?

Or is there a under lying issue somewhere that I should have checked.

thanks!

 

[dogfriend]

Mine failed once when the truck was 5 or 6 yrs old. The replacement is 3 or 4 yrs old now.

Are you buying aftermarket or factory parts? If you want to buy factory, you can try fastpartsnetwork.com for a lower price. If I recall correctly, the part is less than $25 from the dealer.

 

[jhoch]

I've gotten them from Napa and Advanced Auto parts

Interesting that it might make a difference.

 

[lonestar]

Just bypass the valve, use two straight hose fittings, or replace with a single hose.

It either only opens when HEAT is on or shuts when AC MAX is on to cut flow off to the heater core. I added a valve to my 1st gen after seeing one on a Ranger to help my AC, I didn't notice any difference. As long as your BLEND DOOR works it shouldn't matter if the heater core gets warm while running AC.

 

[Turdle]

If you are using the OEM pinch clamps, I wonder if one of them is deformed, causing the nipple to crack?
Also, a chunk of debris inside the hose, when clamped down could crack the nipple.?

 

[jhoch]

well if you all are familiar with what the heater control valves look like,

twice, the problem has been coolant leaking out around the screw that holds the valve assembly together. sometimes its just the screw loosening and all I have to do is tighten the screw again and that holds it temporarily.

this time it was from the bottom of the vaccum accuator for the valve, and I had no choice but to replace it.

they should either find a new design, or make them more sturdy.

BTW, trying to track a open auto parts store on Labor Day is a PITA. I had to drive to the Advanced Auto parts 20mins from here, which is sad because there are 5 stores in this town......

and no, last time I replace the control valve, I went to standard metal hose clamps.

 

[xdviper]

Heh, I guess it's my turn to change the valve. Mines been leaking out and if it wasn't for the smoke coming from the coolant dropping on a hot part, I wouldn't have known at all. It leaks too much that it doesn't even warm up the cabin anymore! I don't know if it is the bend door or something else but after I get this changed, I'll look into that. Now my question is, on a scale of 1-10, 10 being Very Hard, and 1 being very easy. What would you say? Will I be able to do this? I'm not too car savvy at all. I can take it to my mechanic and he'll do it for me for a small fee, but I want to try it out myself, and save a few extra bucks for that next car wash.

and last but not least, how much and where can I get my dirty hands on these?

PS: first time in 5 years since I got the car in late 2002, I had to change it!

 

[Turdle]

Just bypass the valve, use two straight hose fittings, or replace with a single hose.

It either only opens when HEAT is on or shuts when AC MAX is on to cut flow off to the heater core. I added a valve to my 1st gen after seeing one on a Ranger to help my AC, I didn't notice any difference. As long as your BLEND DOOR works it shouldn't matter if the heater core gets warm while running AC.

I will verify this. Mine has been bypassed now since I replaced my heater core-ac worked fine-
I used a single hose from the intake to the heater core--
You do need to plug the vacuum line that was going to it-I stuck mine to a stud on the firewall

 

[96eb96]

Heh, I guess it's my turn to change the valve. Mines been leaking out and if it wasn't for the smoke coming from the coolant dropping on a hot part, I wouldn't have known at all. It leaks too much that it doesn't even warm up the cabin anymore! I don't know if it is the bend door or something else but after I get this changed, I'll look into that. Now my question is, on a scale of 1-10, 10 being Very Hard, and 1 being very easy. What would you say? Will I be able to do this? I'm not too car savvy at all. I can take it to my mechanic and he'll do it for me for a small fee, but I want to try it out myself, and save a few extra bucks for that next car wash.

and last but not least, how much and where can I get my dirty hands on these?

PS: first time in 5 years since I got the car in late 2002, I had to change it!

Probably a 2 in difficulty. you will lose a bit of coolant so have a pan when you pull off the hoses. It is a matter of removing the clamp and disconnecting /reconnecting 4 hoses and a vac line correctly. I would get a motorcraft part, but not at a dealer(too $$$). You can try rockauto(to see the best price) or champagne auto in Brooklyn for an original part(call to get price). You can also search the web for a 5% rock discount.

Make sure the car is cool when you do this job, unless you want a coolant spray.

 

[mediaman67]

Hi,

I had the same exact leaking problem with 2 in a row, within like 3 months - then I bought the Motorcraft version - no more leaks....

some OEM stuff is truely better

 

[rwenzing]

I had the same exact leaking problem with 2 in a row, within like 3 months - then I bought the Motorcraft version - no more leaks...

+1

OE valve lasts about 6~8 years. Aftermarket is junk.

 

[cuervo513]

Does anyone know what the part number is for this? I cannot find it when looking online under cooling system.
Thanks

 

[HI-TECHREDNECK]

I will verify this. Mine has been bypassed now since I replaced my heater core-ac worked fine-
I used a single hose from the intake to the heater core--
You do need to plug the vacuum line that was going to it-I stuck mine to a stud on the firewall

so what your saying is that the heater core control valve is in deed useless, and all functions on the truck will work the same with out a valve in there? so long as you plug that vaccum line. if this is truely the case i will just get a cheip hose connector to connect the two hoses together after i take out the valve....gotta be cheiper than 15 or 20 bucks for a new valve of the internet...and wont leak after 5 or 6 years either...problem will be solved for good.

 

[Turdle]

I have no complaints. If the ac doesn't blow cold enough this summer-replace it then. Right now it isn't needed for sure.