HELP 2013 3.7L PIU not able to pass inspection due to oxygen sensors not ready | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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HELP 2013 3.7L PIU not able to pass inspection due to oxygen sensors not ready

I'm sure we can work something out. However, I would need to plug in my battery charger to a 110v outlet somewhere. System requires +13v volts.

Also, I have not been able to get into IDS engineering mode to go deeper. I get to the screen where it says to select model (by code) or input a Vin. Neither option work, and I can't get past it, or at least not in a meaningful way to do anything to my vehicle. Is there an IDS expert in the house? Sadly my functionality is limited to rather generic stuff. I can add modules, program with latest calibrations, get as-built data from mother Ford, run some service functions, but engineering mode is where it's at. The latest Forscan has almost more functionality though higher risk.
 



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I'm sure we can work something out. However, I would need to plug in my battery charger to a 110v outlet somewhere. System requires +13v volts.

Also, I have not been able to get into IDS engineering mode to go deeper. I get to the screen where it says to select model (by code) or input a Vin. Neither option work, and I can't get past it, or at least not in a meaningful way to do anything to my vehicle. Is there an IDS expert in the house? Sadly my functionality is limited to rather generic stuff. I can add modules, program with latest calibrations, get as-built data from mother Ford, run some service functions, but engineering mode is where it's at. The latest Forscan has almost more functionality though higher risk.
So, my vehicle is currently at the Ford dealer for the reflash. I just got a call saying that they replaced an O2 sensor and have diagnosed that it needs new spark plugs, intake tubing, catalytic converters (both of them), down pipes, flex pipes, and all of it would cost $3500. They are going to charge me $350 for the O2 sensor replacement. And they DIDN'T REFLASH IT LIKE I ASKED. They said that the O2 sensor they replaced was a downstream sensor that was broken or something. Any suggestions of what I should do? They are saying (direct quote from the mechanic) "There is no reflash for this vehicle." He won't even tell me why there isn't a way to reflash it I call bullshit. And the $3500 of other **** is absolute bullshit as well if you ask me... They said that they detected misfires but there were no codes for misfires (no codes at all, for that matter) when I brought it in yesterday.
 






Sounds like they don't really want to do any diagnosis, they just want to slap all new parts and call it. I mean, plugs aren't bad to do if you don't know the age, and there IS a service bulletin on certain PIUs for cat replacement (provided it's throwing specific codes). I'm assuming they are saying you need the rest of the exhaust stuff because in the process of the cat replacement, chances are the rest of it will snap off or frozen in place. Typical New England exhaust stuff. Going straight to the cats is like the LAST resort because of the cost and labor.

350 for a single O2 is insane. If memory serves they are about $50. I did my 3 in a matter of about 30 min, which included a 5 min PB blaster soak. O2 wrench, muscle, and thread in a new one. MAYBE chase the threads with a tap if needed.

As for the CA flash, I honestly don't know. Maybe you do have the latest calibration, just not set to CA emissions. I believe there was a TSB on the PCM flash so maybe it was done at some point. Can check the VIN with a dealership or online to are what has been done for bulletins. Again, as for setting to CA, I don't know how without going to engineering.

Misfires are an evil thing to diagnose. Plugs are usually the go-to step 1. There are other simple'ish things to try too but the forums are flush with misfire diagnostics and fixes.

Intake tubing? Is it cracked or torn? Sounds like a stretch. Sure they didn't say "intake manifold gasket" because that is technically supposed to be replaced whenever you take the manifold off which you need to do to get at the rear plugs.
 






Also, I don't have the time to read back, but what have you don't to it thus far mechanically? Anything?
 






Sounds like they don't really want to do any diagnosis, they just want to slap all new parts and call it. I mean, plugs aren't bad to do if you don't know the age, and there IS a service bulletin on certain PIUs for cat replacement (provided it's throwing specific codes). I'm assuming they are saying you need the rest of the exhaust stuff because in the process of the cat replacement, chances are the rest of it will snap off or frozen in place. Typical New England exhaust stuff. Going straight to the cats is like the LAST resort because of the cost and labor.

350 for a single O2 is insane. If memory serves they are about $50. I did my 3 in a matter of about 30 min, which included a 5 min PB blaster soak. O2 wrench, muscle, and thread in a new one. MAYBE chase the threads with a tap if needed.

As for the CA flash, I honestly don't know. Maybe you do have the latest calibration, just not set to CA emissions. I believe there was a TSB on the PCM flash so maybe it was done at some point. Can check the VIN with a dealership or online to are what has been done for bulletins. Again, as for setting to CA, I don't know how without going to engineering.

Misfires are an evil thing to diagnose. Plugs are usually the go-to step 1. There are other simple'ish things to try too but the forums are flush with misfire diagnostics and fixes.

Intake tubing? Is it cracked or torn? Sounds like a stretch. Sure they didn't say "intake manifold gasket" because that is technically supposed to be replaced whenever you take the manifold off which you need to do to get at the rear plugs.
Supposedly the guy spent 6 hours on the thing but they aren't charging me for the full 6 hours or something... They were very vague about that on the phone. So some kind of diagnosis and repair that I did not authorize happened. Again, my vehicle is throwing ZERO codes. Nothing related to the cats, nothing indicative of misfires (when driving there is no feeling like there are misfires either).

In terms of the $350... It cost me $250 for a different dealership to tell me that I had one non-OEM sensor. That was their "diagnostic fee." They did not even change out the sensor - that was going to cost an additional fee! What a scam from the other place too.

As far as the intake, he said "intake tubing" on the phone. He didn't even mention the gasket, which I actually know should be replaced since you have to take the manifold off to do the plugs like you said. The intake tubing is pristine. No cracks, no tears in the intake boot anywhere. I know this for a fact because I had it out not long ago to detail the engine bay and I cleaned that while it was out of the bay, so I was getting up close and personal with it. I was very gentle and careful about it and didn't cause any damage.

I just can't see why the vehicle isn't throwing a single trouble code, not even p1000. It doesn't make sense to me. Something has to be missing from the equation...
 






So now it's going from not reading the O2s properly and non-CA emissions to replacing intake and exhaust parts.

I wonder if like 1991 sploder stated before, the force ready damaged the PCM in some fashion? Also maybe there is a exhaust leak that's throwing it off. Just doesn't make sense.

Before you get the car back, assuming you plan to without them doing this $3500 worth of questionable necessity work, have them give you a DETAILED analysis of exactly what and why. No vague description. Sounds like they are feeding you the classic "blinker fluid" line. Just because they are a dealership doesn't mean they have to be ethical or are right.
 






So now it's going from not reading the O2s properly and non-CA emissions to replacing intake and exhaust parts.

I wonder if like 1991 sploder stated before, the force ready damaged the PCM in some fashion? Also maybe there is a exhaust leak that's throwing it off. Just doesn't make sense.

Before you get the car back, assuming you plan to without them doing this $3500 worth of questionable necessity work, have them give you a DETAILED analysis of exactly what and why. No vague description. Sounds like they are feeding you the classic "blinker fluid" line. Just because they are a dealership doesn't mean they have to be ethical or are right.
Yeah, the dude was being super vague on the phone and we already told him we've been dealing with this since August and dont want any upsells or anything, we are trying to get to the bottom of the problem and want to try the reflash. We did not authorize them to make any other repairs.
So far the mechanical stuff we've done is there was one exhaust leak detected early on, so that was welded and repaired. More recently, my local mechanic ran a smoke machine UV smoke test on the evap and exhaust systems, and detected no leaks at all. We replaced all 4 O2 sensors with brand new FoMoCo sensors to no avail. The local mechanic also did a wiring check, and verified that all of the sensors' wires are in good working order. There were no faults or breaks all the way from the sensors back to the PCM. We have NOT replaced the cats yet though, simply because that will be the absolute last thing we could think to do before it becomes a game of slapping new parts on it. Plus, the Cat monitors are coming ready, and no Cat codes are being thrown, so we have somewhat dismissed them as being the problem since the readings from the O2 sensors say that the Cats are working fine.
I must have missed the part about "the force may have damaged the PCM already" - what does that mean? The force of what?
I will definitely be asking for a detailed report of what was done... No worries there, I will definitely be getting the info and I will not be paying them any money because I didn't authorize any of the extra work they did. All I asked for was an ECU reflash to comply with california emissions, and they said they would call me when they got it in the shop to tell me whether it worked or not. They ended up calling me at the end of the day telling me they put 6 hours into it and this and that needs to be replaced etc. Sadly both ford dealerships so far that I've been to have pulled the "trying to get as much of my money as possible" approach so far.
 












Also forced ready mode sounds like the best way to blow a pcm yet.... No such thing unless they hooked it up to a tuner to make it say please no codes basically or when something comes up No error reported. If they did that it will never ever EVER read ready. Only they can tell the computer to not mil indicator when throwing a code.... It wont even come up.. If they did force it like that take it back and say take off the force ready.... It's just continuously test mode...big nightmare out here in California I've heard of endless ways to pass smog force ready isn't a thing...or anywhere
All false assumptions. They did a scanner test that puts them into test mode. Nothing was dangerously forced. This is a standard type of testing. They didn’t leave anything “forced” on.

I’d have certainly done the buy back. There’s a reason they offered. That 2k spent might just be the tip of the iceberg. Plus, I think you typically get everything back.
 






All false assumptions. They did a scanner test that puts them into test mode. Nothing was dangerously forced. This is a standard type of testing. They didn’t leave anything “forced” on.

I’d have certainly done the buy back. There’s a reason they offered. That 2k spent might just be the tip of the iceberg. Plus, I think you typically get everything back.
Had I done the buy back, I would have lost about $2000 anyway because of stuff that I've done to the vehicle plus the tax and repairs. Unless I take off the additions, many of which are made for the 2013 PIU (like the brush guard, rear seats, seatbelts, bunch of stuff...), And just try reselling the parts or hope to God that I find a nearly identical vehicle within my budget... It ended up working out that my dad and I decided that we would be better off keeping it and learning how to fix it. In hindsight, of course, had I known that it would've been such a problem, I wouldn't have touched anything on the damn vehicle until it got properly inspected and passed inspection! We thought initially it was just a bad O2 sensor and dismissed it, so I went ahead with my modifications because we assumed it'd be a cheap-n-easy repair (which the dealer I bought it from paid for anyway, no cost to us).

Anyway... I have an update.

So I just got it back from the dealership, and when I told them that I will not be paying for unauthorized work that was done to my vehicle, he handed me the keys and told me to **** off. They also unplugged my dashcam so I have no footage of them working on the vehicle. Sketchy as hell. When I asked for a copy of the work slip, they told me to **** off again. They said "you pay me nothing I give you nothing." I am assuming that the new O2 sensor is installed on the vehicle, if that was even ever done. But man, I will be staying far away from dealerships from here on out. Time to find myself a local-enough mechanic with a Ford IDS that can help me going forward.
My next possible steps:
1. Keep looking for someone who can attempt to reflash or at least tell me if it's possible (Someone here who said they were a Ford tech said that it likely is not possible sadly)
2. Replace the cats
3. Take it to a professional tuner, or purchase a Red tuner myself and do the work myself for the $350 cost of the tuner and it's software for my car


Any advice is appreciated. Thank you SO MUCH to everybody who has contributed their opinions and input... You are all tremendously helpful and I'd buy you all a beer if I could. Thanks all. 🍻
 






Just say f## it take out the downstream o2 sensors plug them all up but 1 hole on the tip of each with jb high temp weld.... Reset the ecu and do a few drive cycles.
 






DRUMROLL PLEASE...

It was a bad Bank 1 catalytic converter all along.

Got the service history from the prior owner (police dept. of a town in New Hampshire) and that cat had never been replaced, but the bank 2 cat was replaced. I replaced the bank 1 cat (had it done by my local shop) and drove about 30 miles and VOILA! IT'S FIXED! I should've stuck with my gut and just done this to begin with. Only down side is it cost me $600 in parts and labor. But now it's fixed for many years to come, and I know a lot more than I intended to about my car (not a bad thing at all)!

Just wanna say thank you to everyone on this thread. You've all been a tremendous help in this process and I appreciate the f**k out of y'all. Thanks everyone. ❤️🙏
 






DRUMROLL PLEASE...

It was a bad Bank 1 catalytic converter all along.

Got the service history from the prior owner (police dept. of a town in New Hampshire) and that cat had never been replaced, but the bank 2 cat was replaced. I replaced the bank 1 cat (had it done by my local shop) and drove about 30 miles and VOILA! IT'S FIXED! I should've stuck with my gut and just done this to begin with. Only down side is it cost me $600 in parts and labor. But now it's fixed for many years to come, and I know a lot more than I intended to about my car (not a bad thing at all)!

Just wanna say thank you to everyone on this thread. You've all been a tremendous help in this process and I appreciate the f**k out of y'all. Thanks everyone. ❤️🙏
So just by replacing the bank 1 cat the heater and O2 sensor completed? Funny thought it would have given a p0420 code for bad cat but that’s real good info I’m going through the exact same situation with a same vehicle
 






So just by replacing the bank 1 cat the heater and O2 sensor completed? Funny thought it would have given a p0420 code for bad cat but that’s real good info I’m going through the exact same situation with a same vehicle
Welcome to the Forum. :wave:

Peter
 






So just by replacing the bank 1 cat the heater and O2 sensor completed? Funny thought it would have given a p0420 code for bad cat but that’s real good info I’m going through the exact same situation with a same vehicle
Just by replacing the cat it solved the problem. The O2 sensor was still good. No engine codes thrown at all!
 






Hi folks. I bought a 2013 Police Interceptor Utility Base 3.7L back in August, and it still hasn't passed inspection. The dealer has had me take it to two different places (no cost to me other than time without a vehicle) and they haven't been able to figure out why this is happening.

It reads that the oxygen sensor and oxygen sensor heater circuits are both not ready for inspection.

The O2 sensors all look like they're brand new. They must've been changed just before he bought the vehicle from auction.

One mechanic has a Ford IDS (I think that's what it's called) and said that they tried a force-ready, but that didn't work. They've also tried doing the driving thing where you have to maintain a certain speed for a certain time etc., Also didn't work. I've put 4,000 miles on the vehicle so far since having bought it and it still won't pass inspection.

I've done a ton of work to this thing... Not technical work, but just work in terms of putting in the backseats, installing lights, brush guard, custom center console, custom aux port, couple of new speakers up front... I feel like returning the vehicle isn't an option for me.

Does anybody have advice or experience with the same problem? The next step if the mechanic that it's at can't figure it out will be needing to take it to a Ford dealer to see if they can fix it, which will be even more time without a vehicle for me but luckily still no cost to me because the dealer is paying for the service.
2013 Ford Explorer XLT - Was having the issue, 02 and 02 heater were not setting, everything was functioning correctly, computer showed they were running but the monitors would not set. Found Exhaust leak at y Pipe, Tightened, and had hole in Flex pipe, Tightened Y Pipe and Welded in new Flex Pipe, Monitors set right away on next drive. Exhaust backpressure must be correct for them to set, based on what I read here and my recent experience.
 






2013 Ford Explorer XLT - Was having the issue, 02 and 02 heater were not setting, everything was functioning correctly, computer showed they were running but the monitors would not set. Found Exhaust leak at y Pipe, Tightened, and had hole in Flex pipe, Tightened Y Pipe and Welded in new Flex Pipe, Monitors set right away on next drive. Exhaust backpressure must be correct for them to set, based on what I read here and my recent experience.
My issue turned out to be a bad catalytic converter. I have the 3.7L engine and it's the police model so there is no Y pipe on mine btw - it's true dual exhaust all the way back. Replacing the bad cat did the trick!
 






If you'd be willing to get together and have a peek, that would be awesome. I'll go through with the California emissions reflash at the dealer first because it won't cost me anything, but if that doesn't end up working I'd be down to meet up halfway with you - I'm in southeast MA and I see that you're somewhere in NH so I wouldn't mind driving a while (I love to drive haha) to try out the IDS and see if you find anything. I'll have to remember to get in touch with you if this doesn't end up working, but I will also be sure to post on here whether or not that CA emissions reflash ends up being the fix. :)
I have the same car, I hope I could fix it with the catalytic converter too.
 









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